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Archive through June 10, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Bernie - Those newer CC's are probably priced about right where they belong, or HIGHER... If the engine in your 782 is shot, a Kohler KT-17, I'd think about repowering the tractor with a different engine. Either a new Kohler Command, or a B&S Vangard I think it is... their Commercial grade engine. The engine kit will probably cost more than those cheap CC's you mentioned but you always get what you pay for... well, most of the time anyhow. You do an internet search for small engine replacment kits and you'll have a week of research to do.

I wouldn't go any smaller on a repower than what was stock, 18-20 HP, I've even heard of 23, 25, & 27 HP engines being installed. I think the "NEW Horsepower" is smaller than the old HP these tractors were built with.... more like "Squirrel Power"... ;-)
 
Bernie:

I still like my Kohler M18 Magnum motor. I still see them advertised on-line, but they are few and far between, and you pay more than for a single cylinder motor.

As a stop-gap, until you can find what you want, I think that a Quiet Line motor can be installed in the '82 series, at least after it came under the CCC label.

The removeable engine mounting plate can be modified to accept just about any motor you wish to fit.

I'm not sure about the newer engines, I doubt they have the torque of an old 12 or 14 HP Kohler motor.

The old Kohlers are just simply the best in my opinion.

Good luck.
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Dennis,

Current HP ratings might be a little better than they have been recently. My neighbor, his brother, and his son-in-law each got a $50 check because of some settlement concerning overstated HP ratings. They have 2 green and yellow, big box mowers, and an Ranch King lawn tractor. All have B&S engines.

I think my 1250 will outwork their mowers any day. Except, the more modern mower decks with higher tunnels and faster spinning blades create more vacuum and may cut better.
 
Ken , a few of us remember that refund deal from a couple years back. Think I was supposed to get $20 or $25...got $11.60! The lawyers managed to eat up the rest somehow!
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Sorry I guess is wasnt clean. I can pick up a 2135 cub with shaft drive for $100-150. Since it was shaft drive I thought with a little work I could put the engine and other needed parts into my 782. These are machines from the late 90's so the horse power ratings are from then. Yes at the rated 12.5 hp it is a small engine but cheap. In the best situation a twin cylinder repower kit would be great but we are in a different $$ range.
 
I worked at a Briggs and Stratton plant. The smaller engines the only difference between the 5 and 7 hp engines we made was the lable. The law suit is why they show torqu instead of hp on them now
 
Paul,

Very nice collection...one to be proud of with some nice rare and custom pieces!
 
Bernie - Someone selling a CC 2135 for $100-$150 knows it has issues and hopes whoever buys it doesn't bring it back and demand their money back. I doubt ANY parts interchange easily between a 2135 & 782... well, maybe the tires and some hardware. Does it even run and mow?

Granted the 2135 costs 1/10th what a repower does, but typically, trying to save money like that gets really expensive. Trying to find a cheap running IH Cub Cadet Hydro, not an MTD, would be a better idea, more chance of success.
 
Bernie (Denny, Ken, and Steve),

It might help to look at what you would be getting if you picked up a 2135, from Parts Lookup:

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So, I'm going back to my original assessment, you would be better off getting a 12, 14, or 16 HP AQS motor from a Quiet Line series tractor which I think can be had quite handily for the same kind of money, or look hard for a Magnum. Especially if you're into power and heavy lifting, like Mr. Plow.

I honestly don't think the "motor replacements" are worth what they want for them new; now second-hand or salvage, yes, a B&S Vanguard or Honday V-Twin would be just the ticket.

Again, I love the power and smoothness of my M18, and I think it is worth hunting around and even traveling some distance to acquire.

My two cents.
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Ok, I found this pic on this site and would like to pursue the application.

I need to know more about it.

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All this talk about parting out an engine from a Quiteline is disturbing...
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Cubs eating cubs - it just ain't right...
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I'm wondering if I should padlock my 1650...
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Joe O.

Looks like someone is using the transaxle at 1:1 with a chain drive (and oil slinger to keep the top bearing lubed) to make up for smaller tires and the post rear end reduction of the F-Cub drop boxes.
 
Final Words on the 147 and stuck release valves...
We did try running the tractor for a couple of hours, and things didnt get better. We were getting ready to pull the valves when we noticed that they moved slightly. It was mainly curiosity, to see if things would be different, that got us to try pushing down the valves with the engine running. We were very surprised then when they did pop up. Luckily the 147 was still swinging midair from the 656 loader (so we could get underneath it) or the chase might have been on.
As to various comments about green tractors: There is one thing other than plants that is green at our place, and that is the pond. Actually, its shade of green is pretty close to "those" tractors. Still, if anyone insists that I need something green and yellow, well I do have - dandelions. But they are weeds.
Again, thanks much for the help.
 
C.E. Anderson. Great to hear that your 147 is up and running again. You will love that tractor.

I'm off to work earlier than usual. Last week a young machinist asked me for some information about his newly acquired 102. He left a voicemail last night asking for some parts information. I've almost convinced him and another young man about attending the Ottumwa, Iowa Fall Plow Day this year.

Everyone have a wonderful day. I'm turning things over to Fancy for now.
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i have a 129 i need the the rolled piece of metal that is attached to the release rod with a roll pin i looked at the manuals cant get the part number this rolled piece hits the check vales i believe for the hydro thanks
 
Hello all, It's been awhile since I've posted. I've been spying on you though.

I've been working on lawn & garden tractors all the time but now I'm going back to work for me instead of others.

My 71 is still in boxes in my back bedroom. I have a 123 that was going to be another restoration project but I just bought a 126 with deck & blade. The 126 just needs some tlc. The 123 needs a major operation! I know a guy thats just crazy about the 123's so I might trade it for fenders for my 71 or something else.

The 126 is in very good working condition. As far as I can tell everything is original. I think the wiring harness may be newer but can't tell for sure. I removed the head Sunday and cleaned all the carbon off, reinstalled with proper bolt tightening sequence. Thank's to Diggers FAQ. One deck spindle bearing set was bad so I decided to replaced them all. Just thought of a question that I didn't find the answer in FAQ. How tight should the top bolt be? I used the tapered bearings and I'm not sure how much pressure to put on them. Also got a blade with the 126 and it's in great condition. It has rust but hardly used.

Anyway I now how this works
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so here are some pics. Sorry it's still dirty/dusty it was sitting in a barn for 2 years.

Well no I won't! I had to buy A new computer last week and I don't have that resizer download. Pic.'s will come later.
 
This computer is my first Mac. Is there a picture resizing dohickey that I can download thats compatible with Mac & the forum?

Please type slowly so I can understand.
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