I thought that might be how it went, after thinking about it, but I wasn't sure. I'll hit the affected area with PB Blaster before heading off for work tomorrow, it should make things a bit easier. I'll probably be picking a few more parts off the 1650 before I even start the hydraulic lift conversion.
-
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Archive through June 09, 2009
- Thread starter mgonitzke
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Jerry M
What you refer to hardpan in your area is sure a lot different than what we refere to hardpan here in northcentral Wisconsin.
The hardpan under my land vearys from 8 to 17 inches below the surface depanding on which way the land is sloped. 8" north sloped / 17" south sloped, 12" flat. 30feet red clay under the top soil, and the top of the clay is what around here is refered to as the hardpan, and it does take a might bug tractor to try and pull a sub soiler through it, or even put in a drain tile.
I have not tried alfalfa as a cover crop, sounds intresting though.
I have been useing soybeans as a cover crop, works two fold, adds fodder to the soil and brings in the deer closer to the house.
What you refer to hardpan in your area is sure a lot different than what we refere to hardpan here in northcentral Wisconsin.
The hardpan under my land vearys from 8 to 17 inches below the surface depanding on which way the land is sloped. 8" north sloped / 17" south sloped, 12" flat. 30feet red clay under the top soil, and the top of the clay is what around here is refered to as the hardpan, and it does take a might bug tractor to try and pull a sub soiler through it, or even put in a drain tile.
I have not tried alfalfa as a cover crop, sounds intresting though.
I have been useing soybeans as a cover crop, works two fold, adds fodder to the soil and brings in the deer closer to the house.
Lonny,
I'm on yellow clay all the way to the surface in some places--the result of decades of conventional farming methods. It's a great base to start with, but it takes a lot of work to build up the organic matter and get it all loosened up. I got the alfalfa idea from reading Louis Bromfield. Alfalfa shoots a deep taproot and brings nutrients up from the subsoil while breaking up the subsoil. Bromfield documented excavating old (30+ years I believe) alfalfa crowns to a depth of 24 feet.
Jerry
I'm on yellow clay all the way to the surface in some places--the result of decades of conventional farming methods. It's a great base to start with, but it takes a lot of work to build up the organic matter and get it all loosened up. I got the alfalfa idea from reading Louis Bromfield. Alfalfa shoots a deep taproot and brings nutrients up from the subsoil while breaking up the subsoil. Bromfield documented excavating old (30+ years I believe) alfalfa crowns to a depth of 24 feet.
Jerry
aethompson
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- Andy Thompson
Mark - dumb or not I guess it's done so I have to figure it out
What's the swash plate?
Richard - thanks for that, I'll give it a look when I get home tonite and see if that is the problem. The pin is definitely in there, I was careful to keep track of that. Fairly certain I kept the plates on the correct valves. I really don't want to pull the rearend off again so that could be wishful thinking. Do you know of any way to tell those apart if I have to go that far again?
Richard - thanks for that, I'll give it a look when I get home tonite and see if that is the problem. The pin is definitely in there, I was careful to keep track of that. Fairly certain I kept the plates on the correct valves. I really don't want to pull the rearend off again so that could be wishful thinking. Do you know of any way to tell those apart if I have to go that far again?
LONNIE - Another thing about alfalfa Jerry didn't mention specifically is it has "nitrogen fixing noduals" on the roots, really makes a great "Green Manure". Soybeans have them as well but not to the extent alfalfa does. Actually, soybeans were imported into this country as a forage crop, not as a grain.
NEIL C. - That's good news about your 122. Cheap overhaul! Delvac is really good oil, every manufacturing company I've worked for that used oil to fill gearboxes, or ???? has specified Mobil oils & lubes (except IHC). I use Mobil 1 in My Wife's '03 Mountaineer & My Volvo S40 T5. If I hadn't started My diesel pickup on Rotella I'd be using Delvac too. My PowerStroke is supposed to be "Sensitive" to oil foaming because of the high hydraulic pressure from the HEUI style injectors. Even with 300,000 miles on the Old Girl I put 14 quarts in and drain 13 quarts out every oil change.
NEIL C. - That's good news about your 122. Cheap overhaul! Delvac is really good oil, every manufacturing company I've worked for that used oil to fill gearboxes, or ???? has specified Mobil oils & lubes (except IHC). I use Mobil 1 in My Wife's '03 Mountaineer & My Volvo S40 T5. If I hadn't started My diesel pickup on Rotella I'd be using Delvac too. My PowerStroke is supposed to be "Sensitive" to oil foaming because of the high hydraulic pressure from the HEUI style injectors. Even with 300,000 miles on the Old Girl I put 14 quarts in and drain 13 quarts out every oil change.
Kendel,
Richard P:
It's been so long since I'd had a S/G apart, I'd forgotten the brush holder thing..(but I'm bettin' that I'll have to do it soon now - the 149's pulley end of the S/G is looooose - hope I still got some Delco bearings around..)
You might want to jump on those bearings. I was testing a S/G on a tractor and a bearing took a dump and shorted ot the field coils when it dipped down and made contact with a FC wire leading to the brushes.
Richard P:
It's been so long since I'd had a S/G apart, I'd forgotten the brush holder thing..(but I'm bettin' that I'll have to do it soon now - the 149's pulley end of the S/G is looooose - hope I still got some Delco bearings around..)
You might want to jump on those bearings. I was testing a S/G on a tractor and a bearing took a dump and shorted ot the field coils when it dipped down and made contact with a FC wire leading to the brushes.
smontgomery
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- Steven Montgomery
Newbie here. Picking up my first CC on Saturday, a 105 model, and I am looking for saome advice so I can try to avoid newbie mistakes. The owner says it is leaking oil from the front seal behind the PTO and upon visual inspection the seal is hanging on the shaft. That probably explains the bad oil leak. He said it runs but make a horrible racket and he didn't want to fire it up and doing more damage to it. I turned the engine by hand and it has compression and releases the compression. I couldn't hear or feel anything that would give me an indication of something bad in the motor. I have downloaded all the free manuals on the motor and the tractor itself that I can find. Taking the PTO off to replace the front seal is a must and giving it a once over to look for any obvious problems that need to be corrected. Can y'all give me some other stuff to check out before I try to make it fire?
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Steve-
If the seal is actually hanging on the crankshaft, then it probably has a REALLY bad oil leak. Possibly to the extent that it may have run "dry" and now has a rod-knock to it. (Hence the owner saying it "makes racket" when it runs.) This can all be fixable, but know that if it needs a rebuild, you're in for a fair amount of money, so plan accordingly before you purchase.
Lonnie-
"I have been using soybeans as a cover crop. It works two fold, adds fodder to the soil, and brings in the deer closer to the house."
LOL!
If the seal is actually hanging on the crankshaft, then it probably has a REALLY bad oil leak. Possibly to the extent that it may have run "dry" and now has a rod-knock to it. (Hence the owner saying it "makes racket" when it runs.) This can all be fixable, but know that if it needs a rebuild, you're in for a fair amount of money, so plan accordingly before you purchase.
Lonnie-
"I have been using soybeans as a cover crop. It works two fold, adds fodder to the soil, and brings in the deer closer to the house."
LOL!
Art, Lonny, anything I plant in my yard or garden seems to draw the deer in closer.
Keith, that helmet looks good on the QL. Thanks for the battery stickers, they showed up in Monday's mail.
I'll be sure to post a photo or two when I get a battery for K4K and get a sticker applied. Now that I have my firewood for next winter all cut, split and stacked I should be able to find some time to work on K4K and get the wiring finished.
Keith, that helmet looks good on the QL. Thanks for the battery stickers, they showed up in Monday's mail.
mhomrighausen
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- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Andy T. You really haven't told us much about your whole disassembly/reassemble process. You are having us shoot in the dark with blanks trying to solve your problem. I am glad to see you asking questions though however if you aren't taking time to research a manual and find out what a swashplate is then all the suggestions are just being made and drawing out the time that you could be enjoying your Cub Cadet. Pictures help us all for future reference when helping others with the same problems. Letting us know by keeping us posted helps too. You state nothing of your mechanical knowledge (which actually helps us). I've been in scenarios where the only thing a person could tell me is, "It stopped working so I took it apart. I couldn't find anything so I tried to put it back together only I couldn't remember. That is why I brought it to you." (Usually the solution wouldn't have required the added expense they incurred if they hadn't monekeyed with it.) Therefore I am going to state a few things here to try and get you to give us more information.
A little about disassembling and rebuilding a 15U (or anything as far as that goes.)
NEVER attempt any project without gathering knowledge about it. Somewhere there is a manual. ASK first.
Sauer Danfoss Literature Ask for a manual.
Charlie's Manual Site Also check here.
ALWAYS PRIME the pump with corect oil after reasembly. A dry pump has potential to harm the pump AND there is an air pocket. That is ALL the pump components should be primed.
If you should accidently install the valve plates in wrong and by this I mean switching them then everything will still fuction only the pump will now be noisier. The added noise is caused by the difference in the design of the valve plate. I won't go into that part of it at this point. You need to know what to look for. For that if you notice a somewhat different/louder noise and different response then we'll get into that part. Right now let's K.I.S.S.
Now as dumb as this may sound it has happened. I've seen it done on the asembly line a couple of times. If you install the clyinder block kit in upside down then your pump won't work right.
Installing/reinstallng springs correctly is also crucial.
Matt G and Richard C. have provide some good suggestions. Please keep us posted.
A little about disassembling and rebuilding a 15U (or anything as far as that goes.)
NEVER attempt any project without gathering knowledge about it. Somewhere there is a manual. ASK first.
Sauer Danfoss Literature Ask for a manual.
Charlie's Manual Site Also check here.
ALWAYS PRIME the pump with corect oil after reasembly. A dry pump has potential to harm the pump AND there is an air pocket. That is ALL the pump components should be primed.
If you should accidently install the valve plates in wrong and by this I mean switching them then everything will still fuction only the pump will now be noisier. The added noise is caused by the difference in the design of the valve plate. I won't go into that part of it at this point. You need to know what to look for. For that if you notice a somewhat different/louder noise and different response then we'll get into that part. Right now let's K.I.S.S.
Now as dumb as this may sound it has happened. I've seen it done on the asembly line a couple of times. If you install the clyinder block kit in upside down then your pump won't work right.
Installing/reinstallng springs correctly is also crucial.
Matt G and Richard C. have provide some good suggestions. Please keep us posted.
klejeune
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- Dec 10, 2007
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- displayname
- Keith LeJeune
Poking around the parts lookup I went in to see the #40 box blade parts for kicks and grins.
Does anyone have the original top link pin that came with the #40? Looks like it is a little longer than most pins with 2 mounting holes on the end of it.
Does anyone have a copy of the manual for these?
Does anyone have the original top link pin that came with the #40? Looks like it is a little longer than most pins with 2 mounting holes on the end of it.
Does anyone have a copy of the manual for these?
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- Home of the Plow Special
Does anybody know of a source for the 23 X 8.50 <font color="0000ff">FIRESTONE</font> AG tires?
I just got off the phone with <font color="ff0000">Cedar Rapids Tire</font>, and they basically said, "Good Luck!"
I just got off the phone with <font color="ff0000">Cedar Rapids Tire</font>, and they basically said, "Good Luck!"
aethompson
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- Andy Thompson
Marlin - Sorry for the lack of information. I'm reasonably mechanically adept. I used to do 2 cycle engine repair and do most of my own maintenance unless I'm too lazy to want to tackle it ATM
Stuff tends to pile up a bit, have a truck with a dead fuel pump that I get to work on this weekend.
Anyway, the dis/assembly was pretty non intrusive, I didn't tear into the block kit or remove springs, just took them out as an assembly and dropped them back into place after replacing seals. It was pretty straightforward overall I thought and didn't really expect any problems. I'm pretty meticulous to keep things in order when I tear something down so I really don't think anything is out of place.
Regardless, I plan to track down the S/N and find a manual for future reference. I'm not afraid to ask questions or look for things on my own.
I've since googled about swashplates didn't think you could put that in backward, I thought I remembered that only being tapped on one side. But it's been a few days
I plan to check out the charge pump tonite and will keep you posted on what I find.
Thanks for all of your help so far.
-andy
Anyway, the dis/assembly was pretty non intrusive, I didn't tear into the block kit or remove springs, just took them out as an assembly and dropped them back into place after replacing seals. It was pretty straightforward overall I thought and didn't really expect any problems. I'm pretty meticulous to keep things in order when I tear something down so I really don't think anything is out of place.
Regardless, I plan to track down the S/N and find a manual for future reference. I'm not afraid to ask questions or look for things on my own.
I've since googled about swashplates didn't think you could put that in backward, I thought I remembered that only being tapped on one side. But it's been a few days
I plan to check out the charge pump tonite and will keep you posted on what I find.
Thanks for all of your help so far.
-andy
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Andy T. It has been awhile since I've actually had to troubleshoot a pump system. Being off work right now I just can't ask another coworker to help trip my memory. SSSSssooooo..... here goes.... Maybe this will help others down the road. (This is a starting point for others and not intended for you.)
ALWAYS start with a CLEAN work space. THEN KEEP IT CLEAN. It sounds silly only something half the thickness of a human hair can actually destroy a pump.
Have a MANUAL and read it before beginning the project.
Layout parts in an orderly fashion so they may be reasembled in reversal of how you laid them out. Take PICTURES if you feel necessary to help with reasembly. If you have the least bit of doubt that you'll remember reassembly the pictures help.
If you install the charge pump in backwards you won't have enough charge pump pressure to be effective. No big deal to fix just turn it the 180* that Matt G. suggested. This probably where your problem is.
Again. I can't stress this enough. Always make sure the entire pump system (inside of pump) is filled with correct oil. Just filling the rear end of the tractor once you've disassembled the pump isn't enough. This is the priming part some people fail to realize is necessary when they read ... "the pump is self-priming". A person will think the pump will draw it's own supply of oil even though it is completely dry. Again.... a dry pump isn't necessarily going to self prime. NEVER forget that.
I haven't had a chance to work on the 15U Series line yet. I've been blessed to assemble some of the the big brothers though. Troubleshooting is basically the same. The exception is the bigger pumps have more complicated systems then the 15U. It sounds as though you do have the skills to tackle such a task. You just need some help to get your Cubbie up and running.
ALWAYS start with a CLEAN work space. THEN KEEP IT CLEAN. It sounds silly only something half the thickness of a human hair can actually destroy a pump.
Have a MANUAL and read it before beginning the project.
Layout parts in an orderly fashion so they may be reasembled in reversal of how you laid them out. Take PICTURES if you feel necessary to help with reasembly. If you have the least bit of doubt that you'll remember reassembly the pictures help.
If you install the charge pump in backwards you won't have enough charge pump pressure to be effective. No big deal to fix just turn it the 180* that Matt G. suggested. This probably where your problem is.
Again. I can't stress this enough. Always make sure the entire pump system (inside of pump) is filled with correct oil. Just filling the rear end of the tractor once you've disassembled the pump isn't enough. This is the priming part some people fail to realize is necessary when they read ... "the pump is self-priming". A person will think the pump will draw it's own supply of oil even though it is completely dry. Again.... a dry pump isn't necessarily going to self prime. NEVER forget that.
I haven't had a chance to work on the 15U Series line yet. I've been blessed to assemble some of the the big brothers though. Troubleshooting is basically the same. The exception is the bigger pumps have more complicated systems then the 15U. It sounds as though you do have the skills to tackle such a task. You just need some help to get your Cubbie up and running.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
John H.-
HUGE bench vice (using procedure in manual), Hydraulic press, or perhaps the tool I made...click on the link in my signature line, and then the "Tools" button once you get to my website.
Art-
http://tinyurl.com/ku88q6 I was gonna order 2 for my 582 but never got around to it. Maybe I should do that?
HUGE bench vice (using procedure in manual), Hydraulic press, or perhaps the tool I made...click on the link in my signature line, and then the "Tools" button once you get to my website.
Art-
http://tinyurl.com/ku88q6 I was gonna order 2 for my 582 but never got around to it. Maybe I should do that?
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- Home of the Plow Special
Matt-
Thanks, but I called them too. Turns out they're the same people (Cedar Rapids Tire) in a different "wrapper" (website).
The guy picked up the phone and said, "Yeah.. I just talked to you. We still do not have those tires. LOL"
Thanks, but I called them too. Turns out they're the same people (Cedar Rapids Tire) in a different "wrapper" (website).
The guy picked up the phone and said, "Yeah.. I just talked to you. We still do not have those tires. LOL"
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I ordered parts from McMaster-Carr LESS THAN 24 HOURS AGO, and they're here already. I still can't believe how fast they ship.
I now have enough of those wonderful heim joints to retrofit the 782D and 124 loader, both of which are really hard on tie rod ends. For the 100 restoration, I got 4 "normal" tie rod ends, a stainless steel acorn nut for the steering wheel, enough ball bearing balls to rebuild 6 steering columns, and woven wire loom that's REALLY close to the original stuff for the wiring harness that I'll eventually have to make. I also bought a sheet of Neoprene to make into the rear cover gasket, shifter gasket, and reduction housing cover gasket. I hope it doesn't leak...
I now have enough of those wonderful heim joints to retrofit the 782D and 124 loader, both of which are really hard on tie rod ends. For the 100 restoration, I got 4 "normal" tie rod ends, a stainless steel acorn nut for the steering wheel, enough ball bearing balls to rebuild 6 steering columns, and woven wire loom that's REALLY close to the original stuff for the wiring harness that I'll eventually have to make. I also bought a sheet of Neoprene to make into the rear cover gasket, shifter gasket, and reduction housing cover gasket. I hope it doesn't leak...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Picture to accompany previous post...
