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Archive through June 03, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Hello, Chris i have a set of those B weights here and will be going on the 129 loader when she gets the new paint.I`am having a struggle to get all the parts for my last 3 Cubs rounded up . like tin for the 125 and T cables for the O and 147 and 125.But i know all things take time. Have a great Cub Day. later Don T
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"John W.
It will hold for a while, but when you heat that plastic, it gets brittle and the vibration will crack it again.
Personally, I wouldn't trust it. It could really pop and cause a fire before you knew it."

That is hat I am afraid of. It is holding for now, but I agree about a sudden fire. I work it in the trees around a lot of wood chips. A sudden fire would not be a god thing!

Thanks for your help! the parts I bought from you a month ago solved all of my problems on that particular issue.
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JW
 
Kent W., I had the sticking valve issue on a 129 that I traded for from a neighbor/bud. His dad had just rebuilt the engine, and it runs strong enough. But, then it was going dead after getting 30-45min of operation to get good and hot. So, he replaced the head gasket a few times, thinking it was that (I don't know if he resurfaced the head well or not). When I traded him out of it, I had the same heat-up and shut-down behavior with it that my bud was having (similar to what you describe). Hotter the summer day, the more (and quicker) it did it. When it would quit, it would go dead abruptly, and would spin down freely, as tho' it had no compression (which made me think that it might be the sticking valve issue, from reading archive forum stuff on this site). I changed the oil (where they'd been running multi-grade), and put straight 30wt in it, and I ran Marvell Mystery oil in the fuel (at about 2x the recommended mixture for putting it in gas) for a few tank-fulls of gas (to attempt to clean deposits around the valves). I don't know if the Marvell thing is voodoo or real, but I just tried it and things seemed better. I can't say that it'll never go dead abruptly again, or even that I correctly identified the problem and resolved it... but... it seems to have "fixed" my similarly-acting go-dead issue, and I mowed quite a few hot days after that without the go-deads. I did fish around the wiring about the condenser and points a bit (as others pointed out), where I needed to replace that wiring (and still do), so there could have been a red-herring on the sticky valve supposition in my case, and it could have been either wiring and/or sticky valves. Food for thought.

Todd, that same neighbor of mine had a '88 Chevy 4wd pickup with the exact same issue on the fuel pump, and they had to go thru three new ones to get a good one. The more he asked around, the more folks that told him the same story. Nothing against the brand, and his truck was a great one (had over 250kmi on it, when he sold it, and it looked, ran, and rode like a 50kmi truck), but that appears to be a common issue with the pumps.
 
Ah, I should have known the Marvell oil thing was in the FAQ:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/IHCCFAQ/Additives.htm
Glad to see that others had the same impression.

The "don't use multi-grade deal" is in Kohler service manual, I believe. The manual is here:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/common/resources/tp_2379.pdf

That manual file is MASSIVE to download, btw (I have dial-up, and in rural Alabama, I'm just lucky to have electric lights and running water - lol). Here's the part I was remembering:
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Again, not promoting this as "the issue," just forwarding the ideas I went thru with similar issues.
 
Russell, The pumps are a common failure. That is the first thing I think of when one arrives at the shop on the tow truck. If GM recalled them they would be bankrupt!
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Ahhhh The great Oil debate again..... Lots of books say to run IH #1 low ash 30 weight in air cooled Kohlers but I ran everything from Arco Graphite 10W-40, to Valvoline 10W-40 to Rotella 15W-40 in the K241 in My 72 for 1400 hours and 22 years and the oil consumption was minimal, maybe 3-4 ounces in 20-25 operating hours and bore wear is non-existant, and the rod bearing coating on the rod looks like I could run the OEM sized rod again except the crank pin needs to be ground and a forged ALCOA rod with Clevite 77 insert is being reinstalled.
Any name brand oil, either synthetic or DINO based oil is fine as long as You change it per the manual, which says every 30 hours if I remember right.
One issue I did have with the K241 upon tear down was a sticking exh. valve which when warmed up and pulled hard would cause the valve to stick and engine to slow down until the load was reduced but it wouldn't die. After the tear down there was a LOT of accumulated dust/dirt on the outsides of the intake & exh. ports which I'm sure constricted the valve guides among other things.
 
I had to make a little side trip this morning before going to get the new 1450 to get the beast out of the field before the next batch of rain hit. Wyatt will appreciate this pic.
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I think I'm gonna like this 1450.
I'm thinking Cat.0 on the back and angle blade on the front!
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It's got a pretty nice deck too.
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Got the tires taken down for the big Cub trailer today too. I'll probably bring that home in a week or two.
I think I'm gonna have to change that blue trim to Cub Cadet yellow.
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Where else can you find an air conditioned trailer for $700.00.
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Charlie, where are you gonna park that? I've seen your driveway....
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