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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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JEREMIAH - Everybody's interpretation of a term is different, but by MY interpretation of "Opened UP", Your engine definitely HAS been opened up! And by somebody with NO access to the Internet for the last ten years that the Kohler K-series service manual has been a free down-load. The star washer and lock washer both under the nut holding the flywheel was BIZARRE, and the head being replaced. I bet if you measure the crankshaft and camshaft end play you'll find them out of spec too. There's about a dozen different ways to measure them both, but using a set of feeler gauges is as accurate and cheap as any, and I bet whoever was inside that engine didn't do it.

Anyhow, I'd check all tolerances, check torques on bolts, not sure I'd replace the gov. gear, I've NEVER replaced one and never had a problem, guess I'd make sure there's one even in the engine. I'd re-install things and see if the knock is gone before committing to a rebuild too.

HARRY - I used to re-use tubeless tire valve stems, but when I had to take one of my 2 yr old snow tires to town to have a valve stem replaced because the rubber cracked where it went through the rim, I've never bothered saving them since. If a new one can fail, imagine the chances of a used one failing?
 
To add to Denny's post, cam endplay can cause a knock that sounds like a rod just starting to rattle.......
 
Keith,
Aaron sells an inexpensive3 adapter to extend the sleeve hitch out.
scroll down to bottom- $68 clams.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Parts%20Catalog/Cub%20Cadet%20Parts%20List.htm


My Dad modified mine the same way, but he welded on extension stubs onto the hitch.

another way is to mount the whole rear pto assy on shouldered studs, so you can remove it. I think Steve B did this, OH KRAIG?!?!?
 
Dennis: I should have stated that I don't feel the oil pan has ever been removed or that anyone has ever "opened up" the bottom end of the motor. And you are correct, I need to check that all clearances are within tolerance. I wouldn't have thought to check the cam end-play, but I will now thay you mention it for the reasons that Mr. Blunier clarified. However, I will say that the knock in question is NOT faint! It is very loud, and the engine is vibrating so hard that the coil "goes blurry" in my vision. When the the RPMs are right, and it doesn't knock; it doesn't vibrate either --at least for the few minutes that I tested it.

I suspect the metal flakes I saw when I drained the oil were left over from draining my truck's differential after an axle bearing disintegrated.

Again, I thank you and Steve for the comments and insight.

Keith O: How long have you had the 169? I remember you with a Quiet Line (or is my mind deceiving me?). You certainly have the spread to give it workout and make it earn its keep!
 
Planted some Sweetcorn Saturday with my 1250 and JD planter. Plowing last week was tough - I hadn't planted or plowed this since 2008 or 09. This is a dry creek bottom, just to the left of the trees in the pics is the actual lowest creek area. I think I'll plow more and plant more. The 1250 needs the lift handle fixed, I'll get it done this summer - converting it to a Hydro Lift. I didn't get any action shots, I'll try to get some when we plow some more sod for the next field.

Blurry 1250 and planter, it started to sprinkle on my last 2 rows, and poured rain as soon as I got into the shed, guess I got lucky.

287121.jpg


Plowed and disked field

287122.jpg


Saturday night it rained 4 plus inches. Sunday morning I found the field 3-4 feet under the water level - this is the highest I've ever seen the water here.

287123.jpg


This morning I finally can see my field again, it was still full of water last night.

287124.jpg


I'll get a lot of seat time cultivating in the next month!
 
Vincent T - pretty amazing that much water can be there and gone basically in a day.

Jeremiah - I just can't give you enough of my 2cents. Your last description of the knock doesn't sound good. I'm glad to hear you're going to check all the tolerances since it could very well be a rod problem. It also could be cam knock. I've got a friend out here who claims almost all these Kohlers have a mis-aligned cam causing a slight knock/tick but I haven't heard others mention ever realizing that.
Another thing about your engine - since it was in a 122 it should have the gas tank mounted to the engine which I believe I see in one of your pics. However, the tank mounting bracket should be bolted to the head over the tin shield using 3 stud bolts. Looks to me like your tank mounting bracket has been cut off or something and the only attachment is using the 2 studs in the flywheel shroud. This won't last long since that shroud is really thin metal. Maybe Kraig (Oh Great One) can post a photo of what a correct tank mount looks like on a 122. I've gotten really concerned your tractor and engine have been "really hacked" and you need to go over everything to verify it's correct.
 
Jeremiah; I have a 105 with 241 that the governor doesn't work at all on. I pulled the engine this am and the gear teeth is stripped off the gear about 40% around the gear. I got far enough to see and took a screwdriver and tried to turn the gear, and it is frozen to the shaft. I am having trouble removing the front bearing and the flywheel. I will report back as I get further into the project.
 
Paul M - and ole Frank C (the spud picker in a forest). The Model 70 my son just "had" had a No. 20 carb on the 7hp (K161) engine, and I believe it was original. I think the 8hp (K181) gets a No. 22. I can tell you I put a needle and seat, and gasket kit in the No. 20 carb and it was the same kit used for the No. 26 carb (on the 10hp and 12hp engines).
 
JEREMIAH - I hope for your sake that the oil pan was never off that engine. Anything that guy touched he butchered!
 

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