There ya go Tom, You and Bryan could be parade buddies!
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Archive through June 01, 2005
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Terry Bush,
Thank You for your reply to my post. I'm ashamed to say it but I forgot about the weight of the bucket and boom when I was doing my force calculations. Good thing I'm a environmental engineer and not mechanical.
Thank You for your reply to my post. I'm ashamed to say it but I forgot about the weight of the bucket and boom when I was doing my force calculations. Good thing I'm a environmental engineer and not mechanical.
Hi to all. Name is Mike, have been watching this site for some time. This is my first post. I have a 1975 1450 Cub. This evening I changed the Hi Tran and filter as stated many times on the site. When I removed the filter the nipple that the filter screws on to looked a little wallowed. It had not leaked so I said what the heck I will put the new filter on and see what happens. Well what happens is the fluid pours out from between the filter and the base the filter tightens against at a very impressive rate. Can not tighten the filter anymore, seems to leak worse.Was wondering if it is possible to replace the nipple or not. I do not have the books but I promise I will order them from one of the sponsors as soon as my new credit card comes in.
bmcmeen
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Mike M. -
Welcome!
The nipple should still be available as I had to replace one a few years ago. All you need to do is call one of the appropriate sponsors here and tell them what you need.
Welcome!
The nipple should still be available as I had to replace one a few years ago. All you need to do is call one of the appropriate sponsors here and tell them what you need.
Jeffrey,
The other thing you don't want to overlook is the ability to dig. It takes much more force to dig and lift raw dirt than to just lift the load. When I am digging I am pushing hard and tilting the bucket up an down to sort of chisel my way into the dirt or clay. Then when I have a large enough bite I tilt the bucket all of the way back and lift the load.
I have a 3000psi pump and 2000psi relief built into the valves. I am able to lift both back wheels off of the ground, which is not recommended by the way. This gives me more than enough power.
The other thing you don't want to overlook is the ability to dig. It takes much more force to dig and lift raw dirt than to just lift the load. When I am digging I am pushing hard and tilting the bucket up an down to sort of chisel my way into the dirt or clay. Then when I have a large enough bite I tilt the bucket all of the way back and lift the load.
I have a 3000psi pump and 2000psi relief built into the valves. I am able to lift both back wheels off of the ground, which is not recommended by the way. This gives me more than enough power.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Robin,
Looking a little closer at your plow.....
I think you will find that the plow will look a little more conventional, and plow with much better geometery, if you use the notched quardant adjustment on the top to pivot the beam and moldboard to the same side as you want to throw the soil. Since it's a 2 way or "roll over" plow, you need to swing the beam and flip the moldboard to get you back into your next furrow, going back the opposite direction.............(why you folks on the east side of the Atlantic love those 2-way plows so much is beyond me...
)
Anyway, when you swing the beam in conjunction with the moldboard, I think you will see that your slatted moldboard "lays over" much better.
Looking a little closer at your plow.....
I think you will find that the plow will look a little more conventional, and plow with much better geometery, if you use the notched quardant adjustment on the top to pivot the beam and moldboard to the same side as you want to throw the soil. Since it's a 2 way or "roll over" plow, you need to swing the beam and flip the moldboard to get you back into your next furrow, going back the opposite direction.............(why you folks on the east side of the Atlantic love those 2-way plows so much is beyond me...
Anyway, when you swing the beam in conjunction with the moldboard, I think you will see that your slatted moldboard "lays over" much better.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Terry, Jeffery,
When you look at the specs for big loaders you will usually see 2 numbers under the lift capacity..."Lift Capacity" and "Breakout force"...what you can lift from a static position and what you can tear out of the ground are 2 different numbers (as Terry has already mentioned)
FWIW, most of the Johnson loaders ran in the 1500# range.
When you look at the specs for big loaders you will usually see 2 numbers under the lift capacity..."Lift Capacity" and "Breakout force"...what you can lift from a static position and what you can tear out of the ground are 2 different numbers (as Terry has already mentioned)
FWIW, most of the Johnson loaders ran in the 1500# range.
Can anyone tell me how to get my PTO off of the Crankshaft of a 105. I took all of the setscrews out of the clutch and pulley(I think). The clutch is loose, but I can't seem to pull it off. I ordered a service manual, but it didn't come yet. I took the clutch off of my 109 before and had no problem. Any help is appreciated.
Randy
Randy
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Mike M.
From the way you describe your leak I wonder if your problem is not the gasket on the filter or can you have the wrong filter. As long as you can tighten the filter up tight to the base you should not have any leaks. Pull your filter and check the gasket and be sure it is the right filter.
From the way you describe your leak I wonder if your problem is not the gasket on the filter or can you have the wrong filter. As long as you can tighten the filter up tight to the base you should not have any leaks. Pull your filter and check the gasket and be sure it is the right filter.
Randy K,
Make SURE you got ALL 6 set screws out. Turn it so you can spray PB into two holes and let it set for a while. Also try to get some sprayed around the backside on the crank/bearing collar, that helps too.
(Message edited by cproctor on June 02, 2005)
Make SURE you got ALL 6 set screws out. Turn it so you can spray PB into two holes and let it set for a while. Also try to get some sprayed around the backside on the crank/bearing collar, that helps too.
(Message edited by cproctor on June 02, 2005)
Bryan,
I had forgotten about that museum. They have some really strange mowers there, we often see some at the shows.
The mower racing is done on a field that is a bit boggy at an agricultural college not far from me and they even have 24 hour endurance races, haven't seen any mention of them in the States. Might be an interesting diversion for the next plough day, I hear they regularly run above 30 mph with cub cadets and old wheel horses apart from other local makes. The higher speeds are for the class 2 mowers it must be quite exciting doing those speeds 6 inches off the ground in mud and slime, always seems to rain when they race.
Steve,
Yes thanks I'd worked that out about the adjustable furrow width but there again as you say we seem to have more reversable plows over here, probably comes from having small fields and trying to keep the headlands as short as possible. Its amazing to see one of the big machines doing a wheel brake turn while the 6 furrow plow rolls over, its certainly faster than doing rounds.
Kraig,
Yes please I'll take any drawings and photos you have got!
Just been given the run around by honda uk on the phone while trying to get info or parts list from them, you would think I was asking for the drawings to the bank of england vaults.
Even the local dealer was as much use as a chocolate tea pot. So I will start making the hitch from scratch.
Robin
I had forgotten about that museum. They have some really strange mowers there, we often see some at the shows.
The mower racing is done on a field that is a bit boggy at an agricultural college not far from me and they even have 24 hour endurance races, haven't seen any mention of them in the States. Might be an interesting diversion for the next plough day, I hear they regularly run above 30 mph with cub cadets and old wheel horses apart from other local makes. The higher speeds are for the class 2 mowers it must be quite exciting doing those speeds 6 inches off the ground in mud and slime, always seems to rain when they race.
Steve,
Yes thanks I'd worked that out about the adjustable furrow width but there again as you say we seem to have more reversable plows over here, probably comes from having small fields and trying to keep the headlands as short as possible. Its amazing to see one of the big machines doing a wheel brake turn while the 6 furrow plow rolls over, its certainly faster than doing rounds.
Kraig,
Yes please I'll take any drawings and photos you have got!
Just been given the run around by honda uk on the phone while trying to get info or parts list from them, you would think I was asking for the drawings to the bank of england vaults.
Even the local dealer was as much use as a chocolate tea pot. So I will start making the hitch from scratch.
Robin
Robin, I'll search my archives and see what pictures and info I can come up with for you.
**REPOST, dropped off into archive**
Hello all,
I have been lurking for a while in anticipation of getting an old 122.. Lots of great contributions by all that share and I hope that I can do the same when I get some experience with this thing. I am going to use it to replace my JD165 because it is a lot more capable of a machine and I hope cuts grass just as well(but that is for a different post).
I do have one thing that is a little problematic. The front pto clutch disc appears to be bonded to the drive pulley (due to someone leaving pto clutch engaged) and wont release making the deck spin all the time. I have the parts diagram from when someone replaced it in the past and I think I know how it works, but don't know the best way to get it loosened up without damaging anything. Any ideas?
Thanks
Chad
Hello all,
I have been lurking for a while in anticipation of getting an old 122.. Lots of great contributions by all that share and I hope that I can do the same when I get some experience with this thing. I am going to use it to replace my JD165 because it is a lot more capable of a machine and I hope cuts grass just as well(but that is for a different post).
I do have one thing that is a little problematic. The front pto clutch disc appears to be bonded to the drive pulley (due to someone leaving pto clutch engaged) and wont release making the deck spin all the time. I have the parts diagram from when someone replaced it in the past and I think I know how it works, but don't know the best way to get it loosened up without damaging anything. Any ideas?
Thanks
Chad
Chad, To disengage the PTO, the wear button (aka fiber button), #16 in the drawing, must press on the thrust button, #15 in the drawing. Check that the wear button is not worn out or missing.
Here is an exploded view of the PTO setup on a 122:
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on June 02, 2005)
Here is an exploded view of the PTO setup on a 122:
(Message edited by kmcconaughey on June 02, 2005)
Kraig M.
Is number 16 the wear button? Ahh....Mine is missing. Diseregard earlier when I said that I thought that I knew how it worked. I don't know what I was thinking.
Thanks, I will check to see if a local dealer has one tommorrow.
Chad
Is number 16 the wear button? Ahh....Mine is missing. Diseregard earlier when I said that I thought that I knew how it worked. I don't know what I was thinking.
Thanks, I will check to see if a local dealer has one tommorrow.
Chad
OK,
I screwed up and forgot to do some extensions right on the PD9 Video clips, they all work now, sorry bout that!
CLICK HERE
I screwed up and forgot to do some extensions right on the PD9 Video clips, they all work now, sorry bout that!
CLICK HERE
Chad, if that button has been missing for a while you may have to replace the thrust button, #15, too. Here's a couple of photos from the archives that show what happens when that fiber button is missing or worn out.
Here's what a good thrust button looks like.
Here's what a good thrust button looks like.
