Archive through July 30, 2010
- Thread starter bbailey
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gerry,
The cat better run for the hills.
I have been through the carb 3 times with a fine tooth comb. People on this sight have tutored me on what to look for as far as obstructions or restriction in flow. I soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, blew out every orifice with compressed air, put a kit in the carb, which did not consist of much; needle, needle seat, bowl gasket, bowl diaphragm, float pin.
Bottom line the carb is clean and clear. Have you seen or heard of instances where the carb would just not function?
I wish I were one of the guys who had more than one Cub to swap parts?
Thanks to all.
The cat better run for the hills.
I have been through the carb 3 times with a fine tooth comb. People on this sight have tutored me on what to look for as far as obstructions or restriction in flow. I soaked the carb in cleaner overnight, blew out every orifice with compressed air, put a kit in the carb, which did not consist of much; needle, needle seat, bowl gasket, bowl diaphragm, float pin.
Bottom line the carb is clean and clear. Have you seen or heard of instances where the carb would just not function?
I wish I were one of the guys who had more than one Cub to swap parts?
Thanks to all.
glippert
Well-known member
Jeff D - Looks like you have almost everything. Your photo doesn't show the lift lever shaft to mount the rear lift lever, or the bolt to fasten the lift bar to the lift lever. You'll also need a pair of pins to fasten to top tiller mount bars to to the tractor. Oh, you'll also need an eye-bolt to connect the tiller lift chains to the lift. (I assume you have the mule drive/pulleys for the front of the tractor.)
Go to the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup at the top of the page and search for your tractor model, then the three point hitch to see a diagram. You can also search for the tiller model number for details on it.
Go to the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup at the top of the page and search for your tractor model, then the three point hitch to see a diagram. You can also search for the tiller model number for details on it.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Gerry Ide
Jimmy:
Uh huh.... so choking it will keep it from stalling longer, but it's not a carb/fuel delivery problem??
Then:
a) the extra rich A/F mixture is compensating for a suddenly weak spark that goes away just as quickly.
or
c) the extra rich A/F mixture is cooling the piston just as it's seizing.
or
d) the extra rich A/F is washing the carbon off the plug.
Keep us posted - you did replace the plug??
Uh huh.... so choking it will keep it from stalling longer, but it's not a carb/fuel delivery problem??
Then:
a) the extra rich A/F mixture is compensating for a suddenly weak spark that goes away just as quickly.
or
c) the extra rich A/F mixture is cooling the piston just as it's seizing.
or
d) the extra rich A/F is washing the carbon off the plug.
Keep us posted - you did replace the plug??
I found the tiller mount
Item 9 is already in the casting.
Looks like I'll need item 6 & 10 along with items 3 & 4 to attach it.
Could someone get me a diameter and length of item 6? It's probably something I could make up at work. A picture would be a big help too.
Do the bars , items 7 go mount on the sam ecenter line as the casting? One big long rod or ?????
Thanks
Item 9 is already in the casting.
Looks like I'll need item 6 & 10 along with items 3 & 4 to attach it.
Could someone get me a diameter and length of item 6? It's probably something I could make up at work. A picture would be a big help too.
Do the bars , items 7 go mount on the sam ecenter line as the casting? One big long rod or ?????
Thanks
Gerry,
I have replaced the plug twice: 1st Champion / 2nd NGK with same results.
c) the extra rich A/F mixture is cooling the piston just as it's seizing.
I’m not sure I posted this but when I decarbed the combustion chamber I measure the bore with my bore gauge in X and Y thru the Z range. The bore was about .0008” oversize and .001” out of round and smooth with no scaring.
What was b) in you previous post or was that a test?
I am tapped out on ideas!
I have replaced the plug twice: 1st Champion / 2nd NGK with same results.
c) the extra rich A/F mixture is cooling the piston just as it's seizing.
I’m not sure I posted this but when I decarbed the combustion chamber I measure the bore with my bore gauge in X and Y thru the Z range. The bore was about .0008” oversize and .001” out of round and smooth with no scaring.
What was b) in you previous post or was that a test?
I am tapped out on ideas!
dandre
Active member
Jimmy, I didn't know there were any other CC members this close to me. I didn't get in on the first of your troubles, but what I've read sounds like it may be water in the gas. You have probably already checked that.
As I said, I didn't read all your posts, what does it take to restart it after it dies?
As I said, I didn't read all your posts, what does it take to restart it after it dies?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Jimmy:
b (and 2) were just a test to see if you were paying attention.
I'll give you a hint...when my 129 empties the tank in the back yard, starts to die and I'm too lazy to walk out to the barn to get the big gas can, I choke the h.ll out of it, which will usually get me to the front yard barn area. Why does it keep running? Because it starts to stumble NOT when the bowl is empty, but when the level in the bowl has dropped enough to lean out the A/F mixture - there's still gas in the bowl, just not enough venturi suction to draw the gas up into the throat of the carb. Choking it causes a high vacuum area behind the choke plate, ahead of the main jet dump tube, so it now has enough suction to draw the rest of the gas out of the bowl.......
b (and 2) were just a test to see if you were paying attention.
I'll give you a hint...when my 129 empties the tank in the back yard, starts to die and I'm too lazy to walk out to the barn to get the big gas can, I choke the h.ll out of it, which will usually get me to the front yard barn area. Why does it keep running? Because it starts to stumble NOT when the bowl is empty, but when the level in the bowl has dropped enough to lean out the A/F mixture - there's still gas in the bowl, just not enough venturi suction to draw the gas up into the throat of the carb. Choking it causes a high vacuum area behind the choke plate, ahead of the main jet dump tube, so it now has enough suction to draw the rest of the gas out of the bowl.......
Gerry, a little late to the party but you could kill 2 birds here (and save the cat) if you'd bet 20 bucks and a bee hive
.
Jimmy, I ain't forgot about you, if it was me at this point, I'd set the float higher and see if it got better. If it does the problem is in front of that point, if it doesn't change the problem is after.
Jimmy, I ain't forgot about you, if it was me at this point, I'd set the float higher and see if it got better. If it does the problem is in front of that point, if it doesn't change the problem is after.
