-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through July 30, 2005
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Had a disassemble and reassemble exercise today on the one arm loader 147. I had to repair the drive shaft.
Here is what lead up to the problem. I am driving the hydraulic pump for the loader off of the pulley designed into the flywheel cup. The v belt hit the flywheel screen bolts so I shimmed the flywheel cup away from the flywheel. This caused the drive shaft coupler (item #2) to push into the drive shaft pin (item #3). The extra pressure was causing the drive shaft on the other end to wear an elongated hole in the transmission coupler (item #4). Eventually the drive shaft and transmission shafts where almost 1/4" out of alignment which caused a nasty vibration.
To fix the problem I pulled the front grill assembly and the motor. I removed the drive shaft and rag joint. I used an air chisel with a center punch bit to remove the transmission pin. Without the air tool, I would still be laying on the floor with a hammer in one hand and a punch in the other bloody hand. I fixed the coupler with a bushing and fixed the drive shaft by building up weld an grinding and sanding it smooth. I re-drilled the hole in the drive shaft for the pin (item #3) 1/4" further away from the flywheel. This should remove the stress. I just finished reassembling the cub.
I now know why WF enthusiasts claim the removal of the transmission pin is a NF drawback. Without the proper tools it would be impossible.
BTW no more drive train shake.
Here is what lead up to the problem. I am driving the hydraulic pump for the loader off of the pulley designed into the flywheel cup. The v belt hit the flywheel screen bolts so I shimmed the flywheel cup away from the flywheel. This caused the drive shaft coupler (item #2) to push into the drive shaft pin (item #3). The extra pressure was causing the drive shaft on the other end to wear an elongated hole in the transmission coupler (item #4). Eventually the drive shaft and transmission shafts where almost 1/4" out of alignment which caused a nasty vibration.
To fix the problem I pulled the front grill assembly and the motor. I removed the drive shaft and rag joint. I used an air chisel with a center punch bit to remove the transmission pin. Without the air tool, I would still be laying on the floor with a hammer in one hand and a punch in the other bloody hand. I fixed the coupler with a bushing and fixed the drive shaft by building up weld an grinding and sanding it smooth. I re-drilled the hole in the drive shaft for the pin (item #3) 1/4" further away from the flywheel. This should remove the stress. I just finished reassembling the cub.
I now know why WF enthusiasts claim the removal of the transmission pin is a NF drawback. Without the proper tools it would be impossible.
BTW no more drive train shake.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Pics I promised....
Bachtold weed mower. All of you farm kids remember the Wisconsin powered walk behind weed mowers right???? Well they made one for a Cub Cadet too!!!!
Owner had just used it to mow his fence rows the week before!!
He also has an original set of DMI's clamp on duals for GT's......these are rare too!!!
Little Steven had fun at the show too, loved the threashing machine in action and liked this 400 and 656LP.....so did I!!!!!
Bachtold weed mower. All of you farm kids remember the Wisconsin powered walk behind weed mowers right???? Well they made one for a Cub Cadet too!!!!
Owner had just used it to mow his fence rows the week before!!
He also has an original set of DMI's clamp on duals for GT's......these are rare too!!!
Little Steven had fun at the show too, loved the threashing machine in action and liked this 400 and 656LP.....so did I!!!!!
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I changed the front tires on the 782 a month ago and finally got around to re-leveling the deck. The Multi Trac CS 16x6.50's were a touch shorter than the old Good Years, and the deck was running way "nose-down". Wouldn't you know it, the eyebolts were all drawn up tight...no more adjustment.
You guys have heard me explain Big Steve's fix for this, but it's hard to explain without pictures....so I took some this time.
To fix a "nose down" deck you need to remove the portion of the subframe that engages the eyebolts and the tractor's cross shaft (the pickle fork part). This needs to be bent upwards as shown in the picture to increase the lift on the front eyes. Heat the "pickle fork" about 2/3 of the way from the end with a torch and bend it as shown (the keystock is the original "straight" part and is there to demonstrate the bent).
Installed...
This tiny little adjustment (along with the rebuild of the pickle fork prongs and build-up of the tractor shaft) changed "no thread left" to "fully adjustable".
Hope this helps explain the fix (Kraig, now you have a pic to post
)
You guys have heard me explain Big Steve's fix for this, but it's hard to explain without pictures....so I took some this time.
To fix a "nose down" deck you need to remove the portion of the subframe that engages the eyebolts and the tractor's cross shaft (the pickle fork part). This needs to be bent upwards as shown in the picture to increase the lift on the front eyes. Heat the "pickle fork" about 2/3 of the way from the end with a torch and bend it as shown (the keystock is the original "straight" part and is there to demonstrate the bent).
Installed...
This tiny little adjustment (along with the rebuild of the pickle fork prongs and build-up of the tractor shaft) changed "no thread left" to "fully adjustable".
Hope this helps explain the fix (Kraig, now you have a pic to post
Steve B,
Aren't those called Super-Loc's? My memory ain't what it used to be!
Aren't those called Super-Loc's? My memory ain't what it used to be!
Steve B., thanks for the photos!!
Some of you might remember my posting about the 72 that wouldn't do anything when I turned the key and had no spark when I jumped it.
Well Saturday was the first time I had a chance to get to it. Armed with my wiring diagram I was ready to determine the keyswitch bad.
Well before I tore into it I thought "I'll give it one more chance" and would you believe it cranked right over. Spark was good but it wouldn't start...
I farted around for a few minutes before I put some more gas in it. Then it started right up.
Onliest thing I can think of is that its been quite wet in MA this summer but we've recently had a dry spell (broken Sunday) and whatever water collected in the switch musta dried out. The tractor has been sitting out with no cover. I put a tarp on it Sunday...
Man the ag tires on that look cool, but I learned that you don't put much air in them or its like riding a bucking bronco!
Well Saturday was the first time I had a chance to get to it. Armed with my wiring diagram I was ready to determine the keyswitch bad.
Well before I tore into it I thought "I'll give it one more chance" and would you believe it cranked right over. Spark was good but it wouldn't start...
I farted around for a few minutes before I put some more gas in it. Then it started right up.
Onliest thing I can think of is that its been quite wet in MA this summer but we've recently had a dry spell (broken Sunday) and whatever water collected in the switch musta dried out. The tractor has been sitting out with no cover. I put a tarp on it Sunday...
Man the ag tires on that look cool, but I learned that you don't put much air in them or its like riding a bucking bronco!
A
afarley
Guest
Thanks a lot Kraig... I've been looking for this reference for a month! I think I have a 44" deck, so I'll go for the belt part# 754-3003.
Ann, glad to help out. Please let us know if that belt works out. Best wishes.
Saturday I needed to mow for the first time in weeks. My 682 would not turn over - all I got was a clunk from the solenoid. I hauled out my trusty Wisconsin jumper cables and jumped the battery from the cub hauler. No Joy. I then jumped across the solenoid and was on my way.
This morning I took off the solenoid in the hopes of repairing it but it is the type that is pretty impossible to fix. It looked like the one under the hood of my Explorer so I headed for my local scrap yard and got one from there. It was a freebie.
When I got home I noted the position of the coil terminal was opposite the one I had taken off but that was no problem since the coil terminal wiring could make it over to the other side. I installed it and the 682 fired right up. So you don't need to go all the way to your cub dealer to replace this part. The one I used was off a 96 Explorer, mine is a 92 and is the same.
Cost of the part $0, nada, .....
Satisfaction ... Priceless
This morning I took off the solenoid in the hopes of repairing it but it is the type that is pretty impossible to fix. It looked like the one under the hood of my Explorer so I headed for my local scrap yard and got one from there. It was a freebie.
When I got home I noted the position of the coil terminal was opposite the one I had taken off but that was no problem since the coil terminal wiring could make it over to the other side. I installed it and the 682 fired right up. So you don't need to go all the way to your cub dealer to replace this part. The one I used was off a 96 Explorer, mine is a 92 and is the same.
Cost of the part $0, nada, .....
Satisfaction ... Priceless
I just picked up a 129 with a spring assist. Does anybody know how to get the spring assist off? I want to put it on my 1200. The front is bolted to the rocker arm. The rear bolts to a bracket that bends around the back of the frame. Even when I think I am loosening the spring tension as much as the nut will allow, it is still too tight to pull the bolts out or pull the bracket from the end of the frame. Any ideas out there?
Christian, make sure you have the lift arm all the way in the "up" position. With the lift arm all the up there should not be much if any tension on the spring.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Well, I decided to replace the blown head gasket on my 125 today, and promptly twisted off one of the head bolts.
I've started to clean off all the junk inside. There was so much crap stuck to the valves and head I don't have a clue how it ran so nice. Also found a ".020" stamped in the piston so it looks like I've got a rebuilt engine.
Hopefully it will run strong, too.
Bryan and Kraig, Thanks for the diagram and advice. It came right off once I started turning the adjuster the right way. What do you think of this find: 129 in good condition with, ag tires, 3 point hitch, spring assist, front blade, box scraper, snow thrower and "International" lawn sweeper for less than $1000? I was really happy to find the box scraper. Last year, 1200 with Brinley moldboard, single disc harrow, 44 inch mower deck, front blade, 3 point hitch and chains for $575. Only needed a new drive plate.
H
htoler
Guest
do free itims have to be posted in the classified section???
Henry T,
Go for it.
Go for it.
