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Archive through July 25, 2015
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Gerry,
I see what you’re saying. I agree, if that was the case, I would guess that you would have to take the points to the maximum open position, to get the points to be at the 0.20 gap.
If the push rod was some warn, but you could set the gap, not an issue.
The timing cam, I don’t know. I would guess the timing would be too far advanced. If you could get the gap close.
I see what you’re saying. I agree, if that was the case, I would guess that you would have to take the points to the maximum open position, to get the points to be at the 0.20 gap.
If the push rod was some warn, but you could set the gap, not an issue.
The timing cam, I don’t know. I would guess the timing would be too far advanced. If you could get the gap close.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill R - your decimal point is in the wrong place.
Charlie - we still need to know what size bolts are used to hold the "engine to the ISO-bars" on a 1250. Your pic from the parts look-up and hi-lighted part number only showed the bolts holding the "ISO-mounts to the frame".
Todd J - I'm right there with Charlie on things to check on your 1450. Also have a look at both fuses (one is for lights and other for the PTO and don't recall which is which). And flip that PTO switch back and forth couple times. The switch is known to have a contact issue as they age. It has a lock-out that won't allow the engine to start.
Also, you said your Kohler is drinking oil. Never heard it quite put that way before. Have you checked to see if you can rotate the engine by turning the driveshaft by hand? I certainly hope your engine isn't locked up. If it spins really freely and/or makes a racket rotating then you likely threw a rod.
Have you looked to see if the oil is leaking some place? Front main seal behind the electric PTO clutch is fairly common failure and it will allow oil to blow out all over when engine is running, down the front onto the axle, etc. Not a hard fix to replace that seal.
Let us know what you find out? If you get it running again, etc.
Charlie - we still need to know what size bolts are used to hold the "engine to the ISO-bars" on a 1250. Your pic from the parts look-up and hi-lighted part number only showed the bolts holding the "ISO-mounts to the frame".
Todd J - I'm right there with Charlie on things to check on your 1450. Also have a look at both fuses (one is for lights and other for the PTO and don't recall which is which). And flip that PTO switch back and forth couple times. The switch is known to have a contact issue as they age. It has a lock-out that won't allow the engine to start.
Also, you said your Kohler is drinking oil. Never heard it quite put that way before. Have you checked to see if you can rotate the engine by turning the driveshaft by hand? I certainly hope your engine isn't locked up. If it spins really freely and/or makes a racket rotating then you likely threw a rod.
Have you looked to see if the oil is leaking some place? Front main seal behind the electric PTO clutch is fairly common failure and it will allow oil to blow out all over when engine is running, down the front onto the axle, etc. Not a hard fix to replace that seal.
Let us know what you find out? If you get it running again, etc.
Harry B.
You really should buy a QL so you could play along with the rest of guys.
You really should buy a QL so you could play along with the rest of guys.
F12Mahon
Well-known member
Harry, Charlie, I grabbed a handy 3/8 bolt (one of the ISO mount bolts) and it threads into the oil pan 3/4 of an inch. The ISO rails are 1/4 inch thick. A 1.0 inch long bolt may work with a lock washer. I'm going to try to source a 7/8 long bolt just to be safe. McMaster Carr has them in packs of 50. That's a few too many.
rhanenkrat
Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2009
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- RUSS HANENKRAT
Iso mount to oil pan 3/8 x 1 nc with lock washer
HOLY CUB CADET!
Russ H. finally gets his typing fingers wet after being a member since June 24, 2009!
Russ H. finally gets his typing fingers wet after being a member since June 24, 2009!
rhanenkrat
Member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2009
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- RUSS HANENKRAT
Thanks Charlie ,just put a 1200 back together to day so i had replaced those bolts while doing cradle mod
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Russ H - thanks for providing the dimensions on the bolts for your engine to ISO-bars.
Charlie - I've had more QL units than any other model. Now I get to play with one couple times a year when I visit my son.
Eugene M - I mentioned using a flat washer and lock washer on the rear mount bolts. They are mostly exposed and the ISO-bars almost always have a slotted hole. If you use just the lock washer sometimes it will slip or sorta catch in the slot and I think it really won't give you the correct torque needed. The front holes in the ISO-bars are most often round holes so using just the lock washer and bolt are generally ok - just make sure the lock washer fits thru the frame opening. You'll have to mess around a little getting the hole to line up just right. Having said all this I'd use the 1" long bolts with the washer and lock washer on the rear mounts and 7/8" long bolts with the lock washer only on the front mounts.
Now, if you haven't already make sure you have a read thru Charlie's FAQ No. 23. Here's the link http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html
about doing the cradle modification. It would really help resolve your shaking and less chance those bolts will come out again. Sounds like Russ H just did it to his 1200.
Charlie - I've had more QL units than any other model. Now I get to play with one couple times a year when I visit my son.
Eugene M - I mentioned using a flat washer and lock washer on the rear mount bolts. They are mostly exposed and the ISO-bars almost always have a slotted hole. If you use just the lock washer sometimes it will slip or sorta catch in the slot and I think it really won't give you the correct torque needed. The front holes in the ISO-bars are most often round holes so using just the lock washer and bolt are generally ok - just make sure the lock washer fits thru the frame opening. You'll have to mess around a little getting the hole to line up just right. Having said all this I'd use the 1" long bolts with the washer and lock washer on the rear mounts and 7/8" long bolts with the lock washer only on the front mounts.
Now, if you haven't already make sure you have a read thru Charlie's FAQ No. 23. Here's the link http://cubfaq.com/isomount.html
about doing the cradle modification. It would really help resolve your shaking and less chance those bolts will come out again. Sounds like Russ H just did it to his 1200.
