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Thanks Kraig-
That certainly makes sense. I didn't think about the constant down pressure from the pto belt.
I just removed the rails from the 1200 and all four lower mount rubbers were toast. The snubbers were round or spherical like little rubber balls.
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That certainly makes sense. I didn't think about the constant down pressure from the pto belt.
I just removed the rails from the 1200 and all four lower mount rubbers were toast. The snubbers were round or spherical like little rubber balls.
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There is a clearance spec in the manual for the snubbers. They only come into play when the PTO is engaged
David-
I'm aware of the spacing. Like I mentioned, I've installed a few sets to specs. I've just never heard anything about there "job" and I didn't put 2 and 2 together so to speak. From what I've seen after removing rails they really do have an important job.
I'm always learning and that's the best part of this hobby.
I also just learned that QLs have a special carb to block gasket. I mostly make my own gaskets and have made these out of very thick material. The machine I'm working on now isn't mine so it will receive OEM for everything needed as long as nla doesn't get in the way.
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I'm aware of the spacing. Like I mentioned, I've installed a few sets to specs. I've just never heard anything about there "job" and I didn't put 2 and 2 together so to speak. From what I've seen after removing rails they really do have an important job.
I'm always learning and that's the best part of this hobby.
I also just learned that QLs have a special carb to block gasket. I mostly make my own gaskets and have made these out of very thick material. The machine I'm working on now isn't mine so it will receive OEM for everything needed as long as nla doesn't get in the way.
.
hydroharry
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Bill R - geez, I can hardly believe it. You went with a couple Gear Drive units. I sure figured you'd have Liam using a Hydro, but then again it's probably best to start out with a gear-grinder so they know what they're doing, and then move up later to the Top of the Line HYDRO. Hey, since you got 2 units are you expecting another Grandchild?
Wayne - I agree with what Kraig and David said about the snubbers. I think the very front section of the Service Manual is where the specs and pics show proper clearance. You mentioned yours are like rubber balls (I'm sure you meant half a ball). I believe Those are the early versions and probably really the best. The replacements have a flat end. When it's mounted to the ISO-bar I don't think the flat side is really parallel with the frame and it makes it hard to decide what is correct clearance. Also, if you need more shim spacers I don't know if Charlie has them or where else you can get them if you need a few more but I'd certainly try to find some so you can keep using those half ball shaped snubbers if you can.
(Wayne - under edit - I know Charlie has those thick carb gaskets).
Now, I'm also wondering if you're 1200 has the cast iron lower grill housing. If you've got the later aluminum it sure makes the front end light and you'll have to be careful to avoid popping wheelies if you don't have the deck mounted.
John N - for being 40+ years old that sure is a nice looking 1450. One of my fav-or-ites
Jerry G - please make sure you let us know if replacing the condenser solves your problem, or if it ends up being a fuel type problem (Steve suggested pulling the choke to help determine). We get a lot of inquiries but don't always get reply postings about what solved the problem. I had and used a 1450 for along time and never had the condenser problem.
Wayne - I agree with what Kraig and David said about the snubbers. I think the very front section of the Service Manual is where the specs and pics show proper clearance. You mentioned yours are like rubber balls (I'm sure you meant half a ball). I believe Those are the early versions and probably really the best. The replacements have a flat end. When it's mounted to the ISO-bar I don't think the flat side is really parallel with the frame and it makes it hard to decide what is correct clearance. Also, if you need more shim spacers I don't know if Charlie has them or where else you can get them if you need a few more but I'd certainly try to find some so you can keep using those half ball shaped snubbers if you can.
(Wayne - under edit - I know Charlie has those thick carb gaskets).
Now, I'm also wondering if you're 1200 has the cast iron lower grill housing. If you've got the later aluminum it sure makes the front end light and you'll have to be careful to avoid popping wheelies if you don't have the deck mounted.
John N - for being 40+ years old that sure is a nice looking 1450. One of my fav-or-ites
Jerry G - please make sure you let us know if replacing the condenser solves your problem, or if it ends up being a fuel type problem (Steve suggested pulling the choke to help determine). We get a lot of inquiries but don't always get reply postings about what solved the problem. I had and used a 1450 for along time and never had the condenser problem.
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sblunier
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Snubbers:
Open the hood of a QL, wind it up to 1/2 or more throttle and hit the PTO clutch....the engine makes a very pronounced jump to the side as the load comes on........snubbers help absorb the extra starting torque.....
Open the hood of a QL, wind it up to 1/2 or more throttle and hit the PTO clutch....the engine makes a very pronounced jump to the side as the load comes on........snubbers help absorb the extra starting torque.....
hydroharry
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Steve - YIKES!!!!! I wouldn't recommend engaging a QL electric PTO at half or more throttle. I think it really shortens the life of the PTO clutch assembly.
This also leads me to another question. Why are there 2 snubbers (1 on each ISO-bar)? The engine torques to the left. Seems like you really only need one on the left? Or does the one on the right help stop/absorb the kick-back to the right. Could it be why the right side ISO-mounts are often in better shape than the left? Although the rear ISO-mounts are along way from the snubbers they also are generally the ones in the worst shape. Maybe adding snubbers to the rear of the ISO-bars would help the ISO-mounts (along with everything else) so the engine can only torque so far to the left or right.
This also leads me to another question. Why are there 2 snubbers (1 on each ISO-bar)? The engine torques to the left. Seems like you really only need one on the left? Or does the one on the right help stop/absorb the kick-back to the right. Could it be why the right side ISO-mounts are often in better shape than the left? Although the rear ISO-mounts are along way from the snubbers they also are generally the ones in the worst shape. Maybe adding snubbers to the rear of the ISO-bars would help the ISO-mounts (along with everything else) so the engine can only torque so far to the left or right.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
