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Archive through July 13, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Wyatt and Frank - I agree with Frank's suggestion that the QL hood and the hood support are an easy retrofit to a 169. The only issue I see is replacing the decals, and the style of the hood support. The QL used 2 different hood supports. One had thin slotted rubber pieces that cushioned the hood when it was closed, and the later version used rubber blocks. The later version was much better since the rubber blocks virtually never wore out - but as such, I think they are NLA today. As for the decals, it's gonna look odd with QL decals on the hood only, and stripping and installing 169 decals begins to get a little costly. Overall I'd probably just look into getting the xx8/xx9 latches which are a real pain to use and really wear into the hood cross brace, and get in the way of the PTO engagement lever when unhooked. Sometimes they have to be "tweeked" (bent) to work best.
Just my 2 and 1/2 cents here.
Just my 2 and 1/2 cents here.
Left the key turned on, on my 72 and the ignition coil is so hot that I cannot even touch. Normal or issue? Any help would greatly be appreciated! Thanks!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wyatt-
Many QL tractors I have seen had the hood crack where the latch is spot-welded on. Might be something to think about before you swap hoods.
Many QL tractors I have seen had the hood crack where the latch is spot-welded on. Might be something to think about before you swap hoods.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Sean, after it cools down, pull the plug wire from the top and see if there is any oil in the hole. If there is it maybe fried, mine was !! But as Dave said, wait and see.
Well after it cooled she fired right up and I didn't see any oil. So it might be ok. While the engine was running I never noticed it getting hot. Just got to keep an eye on it for now I guess.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Sean-
It got hot when you left the key on because the points were closed, so the coil was drawing current the whole time the key was on.
It got hot when you left the key on because the points were closed, so the coil was drawing current the whole time the key was on.
Thanks Matt! Guess I probably should have known that . Never gave it much thought.
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Richard C.I took your advice about the head gasket. I am sorry to say that isn't the problem. I rechecked the head on a surface plate, it's flat. There was no sign of anything to block air flow so I don't think it's overheating. I don't think the battery could cause the problem but I changed it anyway. It quit several times yesterday, I'm going to start troubleshooting all over again. Thanks again for the advice.
Hello, I am France. I have 2 cub cadets a 1200 and a 1650. But I have a problem with 1650 hydro.
When I try to start him(it), j ' have the impresssion that he(it) overpressure in the transmission. And he(it) starts very badly. Where do it come from. thanks
When I try to start him(it), j ' have the impresssion that he(it) overpressure in the transmission. And he(it) starts very badly. Where do it come from. thanks
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Sebastian C. A very BIG WELCOME aboard.
I'll try to guide you as best that I can here. Perhaps others will also be of assistance to you. First of all you've given your Cub Cadet a personality and that is fantastic. Now about the overpressure within the hydrostatic system causing hard starting. If your tractor tries to go either forward or reverse while you're starting it then that tells me that the safety switch isn't working and you don't have the brake pedal pushed down. When you are starting the tractor the hydro system should be in the neutral position with the swashplate not being tilted in either forward or reverse direction at all. Therefore without being able to buildup pressure or having built up pressure already in the system your tractor is able to start much easier. This is somewhat hard to explain without actually being able to be with you. Try putting the rearend of the tractor on blocks so the wheels aren't touching the ground and try to start the tractor. If all safety devices are in place your foot should be on the brake pedal and your linkage in the neutral postion. The wheels shouldn't try or be turning when you are trying to start the tractor. If they are turning when your start is engaged and trying to start the tractor then you have a linkage out of adjustment problem. With the linkage being out of adjustment pressure is allowed to build up within the systenm causing hard starting.
I know this would be somewhat time consuming however have you tried disconnecting the driveshaft from the tractor and starting the engine to see if you still have a hard time starting the engine? If the tractor still starts hard then more than likely it isn't the hydrostatic pump system.
For there to be pressure remaining inside your pump once the tractor is shut off tells me that a check relief valve is sticking and not bleeding off pressure. I doubt that is the case however stranger things happen.
For now I'm thinking linkage adjustment will be the problem.
I hope this helps. Please keep us posted.
I'll try to guide you as best that I can here. Perhaps others will also be of assistance to you. First of all you've given your Cub Cadet a personality and that is fantastic. Now about the overpressure within the hydrostatic system causing hard starting. If your tractor tries to go either forward or reverse while you're starting it then that tells me that the safety switch isn't working and you don't have the brake pedal pushed down. When you are starting the tractor the hydro system should be in the neutral position with the swashplate not being tilted in either forward or reverse direction at all. Therefore without being able to buildup pressure or having built up pressure already in the system your tractor is able to start much easier. This is somewhat hard to explain without actually being able to be with you. Try putting the rearend of the tractor on blocks so the wheels aren't touching the ground and try to start the tractor. If all safety devices are in place your foot should be on the brake pedal and your linkage in the neutral postion. The wheels shouldn't try or be turning when you are trying to start the tractor. If they are turning when your start is engaged and trying to start the tractor then you have a linkage out of adjustment problem. With the linkage being out of adjustment pressure is allowed to build up within the systenm causing hard starting.
I know this would be somewhat time consuming however have you tried disconnecting the driveshaft from the tractor and starting the engine to see if you still have a hard time starting the engine? If the tractor still starts hard then more than likely it isn't the hydrostatic pump system.
For there to be pressure remaining inside your pump once the tractor is shut off tells me that a check relief valve is sticking and not bleeding off pressure. I doubt that is the case however stranger things happen.
For now I'm thinking linkage adjustment will be the problem.
I hope this helps. Please keep us posted.
Sebastien C.
If it were me, the first thing I would check would be the ground cable that bolts to the front grill on the right side if your setting on the tractor. Then the ground cable at the battery and where it bolts the fenders on the frame.
BTDT way to many times on QL's.
If it were me, the first thing I would check would be the ground cable that bolts to the front grill on the right side if your setting on the tractor. Then the ground cable at the battery and where it bolts the fenders on the frame.
BTDT way to many times on QL's.
I guess the heat makes people crazy. Just picked up a snow plow, snowthrower, tire chains and pair of wheel weight cheap.
Will need a couple small parts to make everything work.
Snowthrower needs: belt, handle/rod used to rotate chute and some TLC.
Plow: cutting edge, shoes, more TLC.
Will need a couple small parts to make everything work.
Snowthrower needs: belt, handle/rod used to rotate chute and some TLC.
Plow: cutting edge, shoes, more TLC.
mgerecke
Well-known member
I just picked up a restored 149 with the original K321 in it that has been rebuilt with probably 20 hours on it. But it has been done 5 years ago. The problem is it is hard to start. It turns over great, but it seems to not start quickly like my other 149 that I have. The choke has to be pulled out and pushed back in after 10 seconds of cranking and it will start with just a little choke at that time.
After it is hot and you try to restart right after you turn it off, the choke needs to be pulled out momentarily for it to start. The motor seems to be rich at that point because it will put some black smoke out. The carb was rebuilt at the time and new points/condenser/plug installed. I have adjusted the carb and it runs perfect. I am starting it cold and hot at 50% throttle.
Any suggestions?
After it is hot and you try to restart right after you turn it off, the choke needs to be pulled out momentarily for it to start. The motor seems to be rich at that point because it will put some black smoke out. The carb was rebuilt at the time and new points/condenser/plug installed. I have adjusted the carb and it runs perfect. I am starting it cold and hot at 50% throttle.
Any suggestions?
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Anyone fabbed-up a hitch on the rear of their Cub Cadets that would allow the use of a 2 inch ball for towing a utility trailer or boat trailer or wood splitter around the yard. Before I reinvent the wheel, it would be great to see some others first. If you got pics - that would be super!
