Archive through July 01, 2016

[dschwandt]

Thanks Kraig!
Sure looks like the ovals from here!!
Should not be too hard to find.

 

[lpalma]

That 122 looks like it just came out of the dealers showroom.Nice !!!

David,

Lights say Speaker 143 look like dis.

 

[sshaff]

Marty G... that 122 rocks!

 

[dschwandt]

More headway.
Fenders and tires will go on tonight as soon as Les gets home from work.

 

[rrschmitt]

Lewis/Kraig,

Yes, that is the correct style tail lights used on the 1X6/7 series models. The 1X6/7 series was the first series to use the integral deluxe style fender/footrest pan that continued through the 82 Series.

Lights on the 1X6/7 Series were an add-on option, either from the factory or at the dealer level via a light kit installation. The exception to this was 147 which came with lights as standard equipment from the factory but they also had the oval style tail lights.

I remember the Kansas City Parts Depot had a close out special on 1X6/7 Series light kits back in the mid 70's and we ordered one and I installed it on a 129 that I was using to mow our equipment lots at our dealership. Had to order the correct front hood mounting plate for the headlights but other than that it worked great on the 129.

 

[hydroharry]

David S - yup, if you don't want issues with the Correct Police then you need to find Qty 2 of those Speaker 143 lights like Lewis identified (thanks Lew).

Now, on the other hand, I lean toward what Charlie was saying - putting oval lights on a rectangular depressed area of the fenders does look kinda goofy. In this situation it's almost like puttin' a round peg in a square hole.

The correct oval ones will "fit" and you will get used to them, but..... The rectangular ones for the 1x8/9 and Quiet Line series fit awhole lot better (like a square peg in square hole) but they are also currently really really pricey. So it your choice.

Either

or

 

[jwiggins]

Hey Guys I gotta Situation,,, Any advice suggestions any comments would be greatly appreciated.

I got 149 that Creeps Forward and Creeps Reverse

I followed service Manual STEP by STEP as far as Brake Linkage, Speed control lever Linkage, Neutral Adjustment, and I'm Thinking about Just Trying my Parts 1250 Hydro Pump!

Neutral Adjustment procedure actually worked but just kept Tractor from creeping when in Neutral.
As of Rite now ALL Linkage Removed from Trunion shaft assembly and Damper Plate.

WOT Manually By HAND moving Trunion damper Plate Full Stroke Forward and Full Stroke Reverse same Results, Creep forward and Creep Reverse.

1000psi gauge in test port shows 100psi @ Idle, 200psi @ WOT and 425psi with Hydro Ram Full extension!

I'm about 100% sure I am doing many things WRONG as I am my own worst enemy, Most ALL my troubles always seem to be Self Inflicted!

Thought I might just throw it out there before I Swap Pumps! Any Feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[jchamberlin]

Jason: There are some pump "experts" on this site who can help you troubleshoot your issues with the hydrostatic. It may take them a while to chime in, and then it will take them some more time to agree.

I know the grass is growing, but I would wait to hear from some of them and try any diagnostics they suggest before tearing into the tractor again. Call on someone you trust to cut the grass until you get this thing sorted out.

All that being said, if you're not seeing specified pressures per the Service Manual, the pump is certainly suspect in my view. (Just the other night at work we <1> changed the oil and cleaned the filters, <2> changed the directional valve, before finally <3> changing the hydraulic pump, because someone finally looked at the gauge and hollered, "Hey, we got no pressure!")

 

[mgonitzke]

Jason-

My suspicion is that your episode with the trailer destroyed the motor side of the hydro unit. If the motor side of the unit is turned faster than the pump side without engaging the release valves, there is vacuum where there should be pressure in the pistons, then the slippers get pulled away from the swash plate, and then the pistons can fall out of the cylinder block. Years ago I had an 1811 that had been towed or something, and the transmission was locked up. Charge pump worked fine, as yours does. I took it apart and the motor side of the unit was shrapnel. I would almost be willing to bet money yours is the same way, unfortunately.

 

[jwiggins]

Matt G.

Thanks 4 the input. I towed that "Darn" HEAVY Trailer to top of my hill, Set parking Brake, turned tractor off, key to open gate is on tractor key ring, then went inside, and heard a LOUD <u><font size="+2">CRASH</font></u>

So yes Reliefs were UP AND tractor was not running!

I'll just try the 1250 pump and if any luck there that will give me time to Find the Proper Documents & Manuals to open up the 149 pump and make a determination to Possibly fix or scrap the pump!

Thanks Very Much for your Input.....



Jeremiah C.

Yes my Pressures According to Service Manual @ Test Port are Spot ON, Except for the Hydro Implement Engagement Pressure, Manual Quotes 500-625 psi I'm at 425psi....
Thinking difference there may be AGE of pump seals and/or tested cold, manual stated testing after fluid warms to 130 degrees.... So Either way I'm Guessing that Matt G.'s Assumptions are/or may be Correct!
Jeremiah I Appreciate very much the comment and I Thank you for your Time and Input!

Thanks Fellas I appreciate the input!

Happy 4th Weekend to Everyone!

 

[elamott]

I am not posting items often because I don't have the knowledge others have but I just hope that everyone has a happy 4th
Earl

 

[jwiggins]

Earl L

Thanks, And Yes my 4th weekend is Already getting off to a Great Start because I'm working on my IH Cadet!!!

Hoping you and Everyone else has a Great 4th Weekend as well.

To ALL:

Without Diving in, Hitting the Books and Getting started on this Hydrostatic Transmission Research, other than parts Look-Up showing the hydro lift 1250 and my 149 as the same parts #'s,,,, Both units have the exact same "outward" appearance.

Just wondering if these tags stamped on hydro units might give any indication or cause for concern swapping the two units?


This is 1250 hydro unit stamped tag:

And this is the 149 hydro unit tag:

I'm gonna Swap out hydro trans units and "Hopefully Cut Today"


I'll post update later this evening,

Also Hoping for lots of IH Cadet parade and other 4th pics come Tues and all next week!

 

[jwiggins]

Well Here I go Again!!!!!!

After a few times doing this AND according to FAQ's page much easier to remove entire Rear Assembly w/ pump for the Swap!

I'm just Hoping the parts 1250 Pump still has some life left in it.

 

[jwiggins]

OK, Well, Ummmm. First Hurdle,

1250 Drive Shaft Coupler:

149 Driveshaft Coupler:

While I do a little

ing, I might just Measure Face of output shaft to first set mounting holes and coupler hole centers to make sure the 1250 coupler will fit my 149 Driveshaft set up!

May have to swap couplers also, Maybe?

And I wonder why the 1250 coupler has a "Ball" inside it? Hmmm.

 

[jbennett]

Anyone have a video or detailed instructions on how to replace the steering shaft on an original cub?

 

[jbaker]

Jason switch couplers and it should be fine, the ball IIRC was more for centering the drive shaft. If you go with the 1250 coupler you will need the 1250 drive shaft ,again IIRC.

 

[jbaker]

John scroll down to the manual section and download the service manual for the original, it is detailed in there, heck heres a link.

http://www.ccmanuals.info/service.html

 

[mgwin]

John,

Remove the nut and steering wheel first.
Second, unhook the linkage rod underneath.
From what I can tell, you will need to take out the bolts holding the dash tower.
Raise up the tower enough to get to the bolts holding the steering column on. After removing these, it should come right out.
Hope this helps.

 

[jchamberlin]

Jason: Most people agree that the QuietLine rag unit is an improvement over the setup on the 149, especially those who have gone looking for replacement pins which mysteriously go missing. As Jeff said, the ball was used to center the drive shaft. You can get the tractor working with mis-matched parts, but any vibrations are easily magnified once running, and you risk throwing the drive shaft loose while it is turning at 3600 RPM. Keep your tunnel cover on in any case.

Hope the pump swap helps the forward / reverse movement issue. I guess I'm not clear about the hydraulic lift, is it a function of the pump or the directional control valve? In other words, will you be able to retain the use of the hydraulic lift with the 1250 pump, anyone?

 

[jwiggins]

The 1250 Coupler Measured Taller than the 149 Coupler would of not worked w/ 149 driveshaft setup and/or would of had to use other 1250 coupler as Jeff stated,
I put the 149 coupler on the 1250 pump!!!!

Also 1250 Trunion Shot, as most that haven't been Repaired!!!
I was "ALMOST" tempted to pull both Retaining Rings on 1250 Shaft, Do Same on 149 Pump and just swap Trunin Shafts since My 149 Trunion has Already been Repaired!!!!!

But then I got to Thinking if it was that EASY why go through all the trouble to "REPAIR" Trunion!!!!! Just pull Retaining Rings and put in a new Trunion Shaft Assembly!!!!

Wait a Minute, Pulling Trunion Shaft assembly would that be possible without Having to open and Rebuild Hydro Pump????

Anyway I just went w/ 1250 wore out Trunion For now just to see if I can Cut 2Nite!!!!!!!

Going back in Now!!!!!