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Archive through January 28, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry-

Friction on the paint from the fluid? Surely you can't be serious...I would have had to have used sand for that to be a problem...
 
Harry - you apparently aren't aware of where a majority of the bad guy 'net hi-jinks are being hosted from, and yes, my name is on that FAQ..., but when I sent the FAQ writeup and pics to Charlie, they went to the great white north, not .RU ..
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Speaking of Firestone rims. This is what I found when I cracked open the rims on the 169 this summer...

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As you can see, the tires were SHOT!

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Juding by the shine on that original 1974 paint inside the rim, it looks like the air molecules didn't have much of a chance to rub it off yet.
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Speaking of the 169, I thought I'd share a quick fix I did this weekend. This past Spring the roll-pin snapped in the Hyd Lift lever. As some know, once it breaks it's kind of a "done deal" as you need to replace the linkage with a newer clamp style.

Well, I thought I'd make my own... Cut a slot in the linkage arm, and goober a couple of oversized nuts on with the <font color="0000ff">Miller</font> buzz-box and it's good as new.
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Hurrah for Charlie, he got the link fixed on cubfaq #94! I'm in the process of doing this procedure and really needed this info.

Thanks Charlie
 
Jeff B.,

Try that cubfaq again, Jeff, and see if it works for you now.
 
Norm - I got AVG at home but didn't open here. I don't know at work.

Matt - yup, that fluid inside the wheel would be just like water washing over the river rocks, shinnin'm up real nice, and after 40+ years who knows. I do like the looks of Art's wheels - no fluid there.

Art - now, you went to alot of work with that lever. Wouldn't it have been a little easier to do what Jeff basically did? His problem was in the rod and he welded and re-drilled it. Yours is obviously a very long term fix (never again necessary?). I'm still a little at a loss as to how it works. The nut and bolt will actually pull that bushing together. It reminds me a little of the early base of the speed control lever IH did (I believe on the 1x9 series) that used a bolt thru a cast bushing with a nylon insert. When you try to tighten the bolt down it snaps the cast bushing. The fix was to replace it with the whole new design using a big nut and waverly washer (or what ever you call that springy shaped washer) (which they did use by the time the 169 came out).

Why do I have this picture of Charlie in my mind, sittin up north with his Rusky friend
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, singing 99 bottles of CubFaqs on the wall, take one down, pass it around, 98 bottles of CubFaqs on the wall....
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Harry B.
I'm actually getting ready to go out and blow some snow for the first time this year!!!!!
I've got 8" and it's still coming down, LOL
I've got to get the parking lot cleared as we have 3 semis coming in before 8 in the morning and they get crabby when the snow is deep.
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Art,

Nice fix.



Mower decks:

I had a 100 with a 12hp, 19T 2nd, and a 42" CI ended deck that was a mowing fool!!!! Grass flew out of that thing everywhere and it cut perfectly!!!

I hate 48" decks because they are so floppy and flexible....really prefer the 44" or the later 54" decks (NICE).

126 with 12hp and 19T should hack a 48" fine, you can always drop down to 1st if it gets tall......heck, when it gets really tall (up over a foot) I always go looking for 3rd (wait, that's another story......
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Matt - yup, that fluid inside the wheel would be just like water washing over the river rocks, shinnin'm up real nice, and after 40+ years who knows.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Harry, that takes thousands of years. I can't take you seriously any more...</font>
 
HARRY - If you look real close to the inside of the rear wheel centers on a CC just outside of the flange the wheel bolts to you'll see the EWC and their part number unless you have a whole lot of paint on them or have ground, sanded or blasted the stamped numbers/letters off. There may be a date code like Art shows in his pic's too. Also confirms who made your CC's wheels with tires still mounted.

Every center had it's own part number, every rim did too, but they could be welded together in many different positions to customer spec's so there could be many final assembly part numbers.

And there were no "Bags" of fluid. The powdered Calcium chloride to mix with water did come in bags, but all my experience with CaCl was in liquid form. Dad & I put new tires on the Super H in the summer of 1970. Typically I could demount & remount the smaller sizes of large rear farm tractor tires in about an hour but pumping the fluid out then getting it back in those tires made them take a DAY each. The CaCl is very corrosive. Both water stems on those 57 yr old tubes leaked and were corroding the rims, I had to get it out. Each tire, 12.4X38's, held around 40 gallons of fluid, right around 500# of weight or a bit more, same or just a bit more than three pairs of wheel weights. For comparison, the '51 M has never had fluid and the 62 yr old rims still look brand new, but they've been repainted several times too.

ART - Those Firestone tires don't look that bad. I had some 23-10.50 GY turfs on my old 129 that split right down the center of tread between the lugs 20 yrs ago already. I put tire "Boots", a cord reinforced patch bonded inside the tire and patched the tubes and eventually the tire casings ripped beyond the boots again and I replaced them with some used BFG turfs I bought from Scott Madsen. But I know you want to put a new pair of 23-10.50 23 degree Firestones on that 169, I would too. I never really ever heard what the "Gum Dipped" amounted to on Firestone tires but it does seem to extend the tire life from cracking by a l-o-n-g time. That alone makes Firestone's worth the extra money to me.
 
Denny

Would you know the size of the screws that hold the point cover case on my 125 ?
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I would like to get new this am.
 
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