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Archive through January 28, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Yes, Harry's link doesn't help either. I'm using Avast also. Is that the problem?
 
Daniel Glinski

you could add 4 gallons of winter windshield washer fluid to each wheel. I think that will make 10 lbs per gallon. It will work great ; I have two here loaded that way .
 
Terry D - oops, forgot there is a really nice 127 over on the "Refurbish & Restorations ONLY" thread. It's by Edward H (for Hot Rod) Lincoln which he titled 70 127 clean-up. I can't tell if it's a 100 pointer - really have to see it up close and personal to tell that. One thing, if you're really trying to make the 100 point level, your rubber brake or clutch pedal cover cannot have the little cut-out on the back side, which makes installation a heck of alot easier but didn't come out until the 1x8/9 series. On the other hand, even when you lay on the ground and look up at the rubber cover it's hard to see if it's the original one or a replacement.

Norm - YIKES!!!! I suppose I now got some malicious mal ware virus. And I thought Charlie was running a clean shop here, keeping the floors swept and all.
 
Don T.
You really need to revise that to say RV anti-freeze.
Windshield washer fluid junk will eat wheels ya know.
 
Nope; I am running Vista Home Premium with service pack 2

Dan add a little weight with those chains and you should have no problem
 
Charlie-

I bought a pair of 8.50 turfs on wheels at an auction a long time ago and they had washer fluid in them, and it looked like they had for a long time. I eventually knocked one of the tires off the rim (not enough air space in the tire, and no tube obviously) and discovered the nicest condition rims I'd ever seen. Zero rust. Most wheels I've had that just had air in them were far more rusty. And I only put fluid in tubed tires anyway, so...

Just my 2 cents
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HARRY - I heard about 4-5 yrs ago that Kohler was doing away with a lot of K-series parts and was just going to offer parts in common with the Magnum series. And as always the price on them was going up. But the price increases are an every-couple months deal.

I can't really say I even ever heard of a +.003" O/S piston being available before. By the time you bore and hone the cylinder and fix any taper and out of round a +.010" was about as small as I would feel commfortable with. I could see where there could be times when a +.003" O/S could be used, but I guess I've never had one of those situations.
 
Matt G.
I really think that if your paint is good on the rims when you add it, it really doesn't matter what the fluid is. BUT, we all know old rims that have been flat for a while or low on air, tend to be rusty anyway, LOL

Under Edit,
I have noticed that every Firestone rim I've looked at have been almost perfect. I can't say that for the others though.

I guess we need to get Hydro Harry on finding out how many different wheel suppliers IH had.
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Charlie - now just how would I find that out? I ain't seen the inside of a rim in a long time (and the longer the better - not so much re-mounting a tire but getting it to take a bead using hand tools and a tire pump was a real pain in the _ _ _. I always ended up using a strap and visiting the local gas station - most of which don't even have free air any more). If I recall the Firestone's were stamped right into the metal - or maybe it was painted on there - which ever it actually surprised me, especially when they were mounted with Goodyear tires. Maybe Dennis knows - think he talked about a direct phone line to Goodrich back in the day.
Now, as far at the wheel not rusting with the Windshield or RV Anti-freeze, I'd say Matt was pretty lucky. First off, there didn't seem to me to be that much paint on the inside, and 2nd, the natural friction of which ever fluid as the wheel rotates would have to wear on the paint. Now I don't know if the air molecules would do the same thing - are they rotating inside the wheel as it rotates? Do they maintain the same stationary position but the wheel rotates resulting in a natural reverse wind? Am I blowing things in the wind? Should the guys on here that have windshield fluid or RV antifreeze inside their tires, be telling their wives their going to wash the inside of their wheels when they are really going for a little Cub seat time? (Put this one in the book for future reference)

Dennis - weren't you ordering up the tires and wheels at one point? Or was that only at Farmall?
Hey, on the .003 piston - I can't say if my block was already one of those .003 (Oops as Mike called it) but it didn't have taper or out of round and we just went with honing and the new .003. Would seem to me pretty odd if it hadn't started as a .003 block so I have to think it was.
 
HARRY - Yep, just worked the tire desk for Farmall, and from time-to-time the IH rep up in Fargo at Stieger would call me to get some special tires that Stieger couldn't get. One time he called and I got him some tires. About two days later he calls back and leaves a message that the tires came in and thanked me. An hour later the Purchasing Mgr @ Stieger called and acted like he was mad, "How the HECK did you get those tires? They're on allocation!" I told him I just called Good-Year, or Firestone and ordered them. I suggested if he needed some more he should talk to our rep up there and I could get him some more.

I did meet my counterpart @ East Moline once, but never from any of the other plants. The girl that did my job in Waterloo at that "Other company" sat behind me in Spanish class my Jr & Sr years in high school. I talked to her several times after I found that out, She was a former cheer-leader.

Far as how many wheel/rim suppliers IH had, for ag & construction equipment there were four. Electric Wheel in Quincy, IL, which became a division of Firestone in 1957. Then there was French & Hecht in Davenport, & Walcott, Ia. They were a division of Kelsey-Hayes which was a division of Fruehauf. And then there was Motor Wheel up in Mendota, IL, which was a division of Good-Year. And last was Titan Proform up in Toronto. They actually worked with French & Hecht in producing steel center disc wheels. Titan had the press capabilities to produce the centers and F&H had the rim rolling lines.

I suspect there were only two suppliers to LVL, EWC & F&H, they were the only co's that specialized in the small wheels. Motor Wheel possibly made some too, seems like I saw a "GY" stamp on one of my CC wheels, but most I've seen are EWC. I know an off-brand L&G tractor used a cobbled up flat center disk wheel made by some welding shop because they didn't plan ahead when either EWC or F&H went out on strike. They're pretty rare now since the center disks were too thin and they all cracked around the bolt circle. EWC went on strike for several weeks in either late 1980 or early 1981 and I wouldn't say I had no problems, but I kept 145-150 tractors a day shipping with EVERY wheel, rim, & tire they were supposed to have. I was on a first name basis with the Gen'l Manager of F&H daily but I got my parts.

Here's a little time line about who was and who they are now in the wheel/rim business. As you'll see, all roads led to TITAN. I actually met Maury Taylor once when he was down visiting F&H. Even went out on the Mississppi River on his yacht one night with the people from F&H and my counter-part from IH EM. http://www.titan-intl.com/about-titan
 
HARRY - I wasn't going to comment on your question about fluid inside the tire but it's too interesting of a topic just RIPE with comic potential to ignor. As a rule, tires should only be filled to the top of the rim with fluid so the inside of the rim never sees air, or if inner tubes are used, the inner part of the tube in constantly wetted. You were supposed to maintain an air pocket at the top of the tire so the tire could deflect and absorb shocks when running over obstacles.

Now on my old Super H I did thousands of miles of road work with that tractor running 15-16+ MPH, and I would just about bet the fluid remained almost stationary as the tire rotated. Granted a certain portion would be carried "over-the-top" but if the fluid did rotate, it seems like it would tend to throw the tire out of balance while getting up to speed, and they didn't rotate that fast. There would be aggitation in the fluid from the flat surface on the bottom.

Now that's my story and I'm sticking to it! How's anybody going to prove whether the fluid rotates or not?

As a side note, I spent right at $200 plus the cost of several hundred pounds of blasting sand and paint to remove the tires & rims from that tractor summer of '11 to install new inner tubes thereby removing the fluid. If I need more weight I'd install more wheel weights. It's easier & cheaper to remove. Liquid ballast has definitely fallen out of favor by both the tire co's, equipment co's and most tractor users.
 
FWIW Lots of the older (narrow frame) wheels I've come across are EWC's.
 
Dennis - thanks for that wheel info. Certainly does look like all roads lead to Titan, and there are alot a roads.
(under edit) - Ripe with comic? Hey, how big were the bags of liquid ballast?

Charlie - you know, now I remember seeing that EWC stamp on the wheels, but I guess that's really the same as Firestone (since they got'm in '57 even before the Original).
 
Nope, Charlie, using what I've been using for the past 4 years, Win XP.
 
Charlie... My browser sez the data from that FAQ (probably the pics) are trying to get loaded from " offemedic.com" and "mediciron.ru" .... uhhh WTF, over....?? Your hosting service in Russia now?
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Charlie - a host server over where? Has this got any connection to the Sandbox Thread for "Should we sell the Forum"? That Group Builder guy hacking your stuff?

Gerry - I see your name on cubfaq #94.
 
Harry - thanks for the feedback and I did goof when I lumped the 147 in with the k301s. Also, I looked thru Edwards posts and it really looks sharp! He actually emailed me a few days ago with a few suggestions which were much appreciated. And, no way will mine ever even approach a 100 pointer if no other reasons than I can't bring myself to hit my freshly beaded heads with overspray and I just tossed my last condenser with the Delco stamp on the bottom! Thanks again.
 

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