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Archive through January 27, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mfisher

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2006
Messages
166
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Mike Fisher
Jim C. - I use Mazola.
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Earl,
I'm not sure what your looking to do, but if you want a little wider front axle you can try this:

http://cubfaq.com/supersteer.html

I'm not sure exactly how much wider it is, but I'd guess it's around 40 inches and it increases your turning radius to boot.

Does anyone have pics of one of these on a 1x8/9 tractor? I'd sure like to see how it looks before commiting to it. I'd like to have that tighter turning radius. My 149 has about a 70" turning radius. Those cyclops tractors had a 24 inch.
 
THAT is what I was looking for. Thank you VERY much! It may even make it on others later on...
Earl
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Earl,
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Just be sure to get the Steering Arm with the axle assembly. It's NLA on the cub cadet website. I've seen a couple axles on ePay sell without it.
 
OK, I'll keep that on the list when I go lookin. Got a cub dealer real close and I stop to see what's in the 'scrap' pile. Has had quite a few newer one recently. We'll make a trip.
 
Thanks for the help on the K-141. It seems the K-141 was the same as the early 7 HP with a 2 & 7/8 bore which was called a K-161. Both were the same as far as I can gather. Am I right?
Here is what Brian Miller emailed me about it.

Yes, Guy. The K141 is an early 7hp engine. It had a 2-7/8" bore. Later on, Kohler mysteriously gave it a 2-15/16" bore (same as the 8hp K181 engine) & called it a model K161.
 
Charlie -

Nah, I think it's just people posting ads in the forum...
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Charlie- Will using 15-40 void my warranty? 15* this morning, 30* warmer than yesterday.
 
G. L. the K141 Has the same bore as an early K161 but a shorter stroke crankshaft. That is why it is 14 cubic inches not 16 cubic inches. It is also why it is 6.25 HP not 7 HP like the K161. Roger
 
You might be able to get away with the old hydraulic lift that could be put on either hydro or geardrive cubs. Like Digger said, Just depends on your abilities.
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Jim C.,

Regarding your question posted 1/28 @ 4:44pm;
I'd suggest you follow what is recommended in my CC 129 Owner's Manual....

"...the selection of crankcase lubricating oils should be based on the lowest anticipated temperatures until the next drain period."

As far as using a different weight/type of oil than what is recommended by your Owner's Manual affecting your warranty, I'd suggest you stay with what YOUR Owner's Manual says to use.

However, I'll go further & say this - I've never known/heard of ANYONE that has experienced an engine failure that was due to the use of a "non-recommended oil type". ALL engine problems related to oil that I've heard or known about were due to only two reasons. Either:

1) LACK OF OIL
or
2) LACK OF OIL CHANGE FREQUENCY

So, if you simply check & top off the engine oil level every time before you run it (or as the manual says, every 10hrs of run time) and change it every 30hrs of run time,,,I HIGHLY DOUBT you'll ever have a oil-related engine problem.

Good Luck!
Ryan W
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Jim C
15w-40 will make your situation worse, IMHO... I would use what's in your manual, or run what i run, which is 5w-30 synthetic, or 5w-50 year round... makes starting up better in the cold..

PS.... this is not another 'oil wars' thread....
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Scott, Ryan
Thanks for the input. Sounds like I should join the 21'st century and go to 5w-30 synthetic. I used to go by the manual and use 30w in summer (above 32*), 10w in winter (32-0) which I can't find anymore so I've been using 5w30 lately. I was joking about the warranty- I think that expired 35-40 years ago.
 
Definately no oil wars in this one, it's all chemical. All I ever use in any internal combustion engine is synthetic, after it is broke in. DO NOT use it until engine is properly broken in. I prefer Castrol Syntec, but I suppose it's no different than any other brand.
 
... oh and it is now windchill -1* after 57* yesterday! My oil says do not operate below 70* and sunshine so I'll leave it parked.
 
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