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Archive through January 14, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Harry-I am out in the Cub garage working on my timing. Now I can't find the S in the sight hole!! So it does not run right now. Waiting for my battery to charge up before I do anymore on it. When I look at the S in the sight hole, there is a straight line above it. Should that be in the center or the S in the center?
 
Anybody ever heard of or used IH Torque Amplifier Transmission Lubricant Additive, part #365-798 R1? Found a gallon of the stuff and afraid to use it.
 
Mark - the line should be in the center. Make sure you get some chalk, paint, or something white on it. I think Matt suggests white paint on a Q tip.
 
Terry,
Good question. Is the TA run from the same Hydro source? I think it is??
 
Harry-I got it running again!! When I started, the S was slightly higher than the center of the hole. When I finished, I did not see your post yet and I centered the S in the hole. It runs exactly the same as before. Still hard to start and have to pull the choke out for a second to start. I did change the condenser and the plug also. It did backfire once trying to start it after all of this. The engine was rebuilt about 20-30 hours ago. The plug was really black when i removed it. Carburetor??

Glen-Thank you for the reference to Matt's static method. Had to use it to get it back in time. That is a great way of setting it up. My engine is less that 20 TDC.
 
Mark G - sounds like you're getting close but if it still backfired then you do need to make sure the carb settings are correct. Good that you changed the condensor but since it sounded as tho it was intermittent I don't think it was that. Before checking the carb adjustments you still need to get the timing right on the Line so you know that is not an issue.

One thing I just thought of, since your engine was just rebuilt, is to make sure the choke fully opens and closes. Your cable could have slipped and maybe your choke is not fully opening so you're running really rich all the time. It can be a little touchy to get it set up correctly. If your choke handle isn't in just the right position when you snap that clip on the choke cable the cable will just slip and won't be positioned correctly. Start with the choke handle in the fully off position and make sure the choke butterfly is fully open/horizontal. Then pull on your choke to see if the butterfly fully closes. If either of these is off you'll have to adjust where the clamp is holding the cable. You'll get some slippage where the S-shaped bend at the end of the cable connects to the lever on the carb.

After you make sure the choke is operating properly then use the service manual to go over the carb adjustments (I think the Operator Manual for a 149 lists them as well). You could put a new plug in since it could be fouled from running rich, but the plugs are always blackened when I pull them even after just a few hours. Your carb setting should be within a 1/2 to 3/4 turn of what the manual lists. If you have to go a couple turns more or less than the manual lists then you may have an internal carb problem or something else completely.

If you have a really old muffler that is failing that can give you a a back firing problem. It could be partially blocking the exhaust, and because Kohlers run rich to begin with you could have fumes in the muffler that cause the backfire especially when you choke it again.

You mentioned the engine has been rebuilt 20-30 hours ago. Have a look around the head gasket to make sure it doesn't look wet and could be blown. If you don't really see anything then I would let it cool for at least 20 minutes and check the torque on the head bolts. If they were not re-torqued after the initial running and cooling after the rebuild then the bolts could just be loose and give you these symptoms (the machine shop told me to do that on the very 1st engine I had rebuilt and I forgot, but my symptoms were what I thought was an oil leak - it was just oil seeping past the head gasket. Re-torqued my headbolts and she was fine after that). If you discover your bolts are really loose, like just finger tight then you'll need to torque them, run for 20 minutes, let it cool 20 minutes, and re-torque them. Make sure you follow the torque sequence shown in the diagram in the Service Manual.

I have to hope you don't have a valve problem showing up since it was just overhauled but if you go over all the other things I mentioned then you'll have to check the valve lifter adjustments (shown in the Service Manual) and if that doesn't resolve it you'll probably have to pull the head and inspect the valves themselves.

I've tried to list everything starting with the simpliest to next more obvious. Keep us informed on here. I'm not the best at the engine stuff, but we got some really good guys that will chime in. (my details get a bit lengthy but I do this somewhat on purpose to help insure people understand).
 
TERRY D. - That T/A oil additive was to be added to motor used in the big IH tractor rearends before Hy-Tran was available. So that means it could be Fifty-Eight years old now, first T/A equipped tractor was the Super M-TA first built in the spring of 1954. Then the 300/400/350/450's in the late 1950's.

According to the article from Ken Updike in the latest issue of RPM, Hy-tran wasn't developed until the 340/460/560's were being built in the early 1960's by Viscosity Oil specially for IH. And Viscosity has been the ONLY supplier of Hy-Tran all this time.

SO.... Yes, I'd be afraid to use it too.
 
Guys I have to add "at all times wear safety equipment " when working on your Cubs PPE ; I dropped a wheel weight on my big toe on my right foot . It is now black this am.I did put on safety shoes after I dropped the weight
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Thanks for all the info on the T/A fluid! Guess I won't be using it anytime soon. Can is kinda cool but know a couple guys that have old tractors so sounds like it will find a new home. Sorry to just be asking questions here but I too am one of those new members that has far more questions than answers. I have three NF Cubs, one (127) is in primer ready to paint, one is a 126 that I use and the other is a 147 that I tinker with when not working on the 127. Retired and absolutely love working with these things. Again, thank you for all your help.
 
i have a kohler k161 that the front pulley is messed up (this is one that has the pto on it).i am wanting to build a show tractor that will never use the front PTO.Can I put the front pulley from an Original style motor(no pto basket) on to this motor?
thanks
 
Chris R - I think we need to know what model tractor will be your show tractor.

Terry D - hmmm, quite tinkering with that 147 and just get going to tear it completely apart. You got 2 other units to use as "go by" comparisons, probably except for the electric lift. When you have 3 units at least one unit should be all apart. (Keep having fun
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Don T - I'd like to re-emphasize your recommendation. Everyone should at least wear proper work clothing. Shorts and Tenny Shoes don't get it. And talking about "right big toes" - I had a snow blade propped up against the wall (just the bare 42" blade), and it kept sliding down, so I grabbed a small 2x4 to set it on. Of course I just happen to be wearing Tenny Shoes doing this, and the dang blade slipped when I went to set it on the 2x4, and dropped RIGHT ON MY BIG TOE. Talk about black - I swear it was broke - took months to heal. Moral of the story - please wear proper work clothes.
 
Chris R., my Mini-560 with a 10 hp engine has a pulley from an Original that works just fine. As long as both crankshafts are the same diameter, I don't see why there would be any problem.
 
Harry

well to be honest it is a hodge podge start with a 102 frameand grill, add a 100 rear and dash, convert it to a short tunnel frame, add original foot rests,lets see that is just the usual parts.

oh yea i forgot make it a tricycle and then have no rubber on the wheels
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confused yet?

i know i am
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still working on it
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Well I did not get the hydro pump I was looking for.
but I did bring this home.

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Also have some thinking to do?

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What to do, what to do?
 
Harry:
" the "Magic Marker" to put those marks on, hadn't been invented yet." Ummm, yes they were, just not throwaway - they were called felt markers, were refillable, had a spring loaded felt tip (you could change the sizes) that you pressed down to refresh the ink on the tip. Had 'em at art supplies, office supplies and hobby shops. Like a lot of other things, these were superseded by disposable land fill items.

I used 'em in my misspent youth on clones of Big Daddy Roth monster tee shirts - still got my original Binks air brush too (got kicked out of HS in about '63 for wearing a painted sweat shirt to school.....) (sorry for the OT, Charlie, but ya know, we gotta keep Hydro honest...)
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Bill R: I'd chop and channel that sucker...put in a 35 horse V-Twin Generac Vanguard....
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Thanks Harry! My 127 is completely stripped and in a million+ pieces and afraid to tear the 147 down too far so I have one to go by for re-assembly. Use my 126 for snow (just traded the snow thrower for other stuff) and just running out of room and $$. They're breaking the bank!! Anyway, getting real acquainted with bloody hands and black snot! On a good note - my one electric lift is looking good with new bearings and seal for actuator housing so pretty happy bout that. Oh, sent Charlie a pic of some unidentified part and he saw my electric lift on the bench and suggested I scratch it up a bit to hold paint. Saved me from making another rookie mistake! Thanks all.
 
Chris,

If you make that new thing look as nice as " THE PINK CUB " you do what you think is best.

Get some feed back for thoughts, sure, but you do what you think is best. I think I'll be impressed!

Oh yes my feed back....... don't paint it pink.
 
Bill
the pink tractor is my daughters (shes 3 and a half

she will let you know its her tractor too!!
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