Archive through January 11, 2012

[mjrobilotta]

yah i checked everything out but no luck when i was trying this stuff out the other but who knows maybe i missed something. i even tried using a different ignition switch. ill go through it all again next chance i get. were finally bout to get some snow here in illinois so ill be spending some quality time in the truck tomorrow

 

[thoffman]

Steve B,
Did you get my email?

 

[jfsirois]

happy 2012

I think it is time to seriously consider repowering my 782. blow by seems to be getting more dramatic and the front oil seal went today the good news is I was mowing and doing yard work in new england 0n jan. 11. The tractor runs great smokes at start up but then clears and runs strong. But oil is coming from everywhere. The motor is a series 1 so i am looking at a few options.
option 1. I have a series 2 motor that needs a rebuild 600 for machining 750 for parts that includes fuel pump oil pump gov and everything 1350.00 plus assembly

option 2. a shop in ohio will remanufacture a series 2 longblock minus sheetmetal and carb,f.p. ect 1270.00

option 3. 18hp briggs vanguard motor with adapter kit $1500. including shipping

option 4 . new series 2 long block not likely should have bought one a few years back when they were just expensive. at$3000.00 I will have to pass .

Has anyone used the vanguard I wondered about overheating with the panels on . the bushed down pto shaft looked a little weak to me .

Has anyone got an engine from the shop in ohio ? I will dig up their name. they sound like they have a lot of experience with the kt17 and the magnum motors Thanks John

 

[kfreeman]

John,

I see a Haban snowthrower on the 782 in your profile pic. How do you like it? Do you think it is any better/worse than the QA throwers?

With your engine, do you think you have an option to just replace the oil seals and maybe rings, etc.?

 

[jfsirois]

Ken, The Haban thrower is a beast. I clear about 100 ft of road frontage with the driveways and parking lot it will move anything in front of it. no parts are available through cub anymore or at least anything I have needed. I have found everything through other source mcmaster carr for chain sprocket and bearings and I put a spicer drive shaft in it that seems to be holding together.I have not used the q model but parts may be easier to come by and the size and weight is a little more managable.
My motor problem...
I thought of doing the rings and seals and that may be the fix. I think that if it is 30yrs old and cylinders are off the likelyhood of finding more worn parts is strong. I have had great luck with my other series 1 kt -17. I keep it flat and well oiled and it has done well for 10 years and twenty more before I got it, but mechanical things wear out eventually.I need to have a reliable tractor when I am done but I would be interested in knowing what the best move is.Thanks John

 

[mschutz]

Ryan McShane, Thank you for saving that 126 from the junk yard. Thats where I got mine. To bad people throw them away, since only a little over 5000 were built. I really enjoy mine.

 

[rmcshane]

Melody-What amazed me was how nice the actual tractor was. Its not a NOS by any means, and I think its seen a coat of paint in its life, but he was bound determined to take it to scrap if I didnt get it. I told Marlin H. about it and we saved it. I hope to make it a good farm worker, mowing some of our farms and running the hay elevator.

 

[rneubauer]

Thanks to all who replied on the Hydro Swash plate to trunnion shaft pins. All pins are removed with no damage to housing, it just seemed odd that one side only had one pin and the other had two. Now how do I exactly get a hold of one of these Hydro service manuals that was mentioned? My plan was to reassemble the unit in the order of dissassembly with new seals/gaskets/o'rings and see if it works. If not, there may be a ported pump for sale in the classifieds!

 

[rrschmitt]

Steve B,

Yes, the IH Service Manuals have very specific instructions about removing the steel coiled roll pin attaching the trunnion shaft to the squash plate. They are good instructions to follow. However, the instructions only discuss a single pin. Apparently, there was a design change made at some point late during the 1X8/9 series and a second pin was utilized and the hole in the squash plate was drilled on through the back side. This change was to probably increase shear strength/torsion capability of the joint.

When you drive top pin down to the recommended dimension depth to get it fully in the trunnion shaft, it also drives the lower pin into the squash plate. Following the Service Manual instructions is recommended but sometimes the lower pin can still catch the edge of the hole and preventing removal of the trunnion shaft, BTDT, as I discovered this while working on my 169 rebuild while trying replace the trunnion seals.

I ended up driving the top pin on through the trunnion shaft which drove the lower pin out of the squash plate. That's when I discovered there were two pins rather than one. As long you rotate the trunnion and squash plate so the pins aren't perpendicular to the back of the hydro housing, there is adequate clearence and there is no problem removing the pins in this manner.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob N., click HERE

 

[rrschmitt]

Rob N,

Yes, you <u>really</u> need to access the service manuals at the following link before you start reassembly of your hydro: http://ccmanuals.info/index2.html

You can also access this from the home page.

There are several critical things "gotta's" you need pay attention to during reassembly so you hydro work properly and not cause serious damage to port plate.

 

[rneubauer]

Thanks to everyone for directing me to the service manuals!

 

[thoffman]

Here's one for the "look what followed me home" department. Didn't follow too far only about 6-8 miles.

Oh, here's a better look at the black things on the wheels.

 

[astrawderman]

Are those original ih hubcaps?

 

[digger]

Tom H.
WTH is that white stuff? Did go through a car wash on the way home and forget to rinse?

Andrew S.
Yes, those are original IH hubcaps, just painted with anti-glare paint.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - Looks like Tom got an anti-glare blade with the tractor too.

Just proves that a rattle can of paint is a dangerous weapon in some people's hands!

When Son & I repainted my new-to-me blade a year ago the mounting bracket got a base coat/clear coat with hardener paint job but the blade itself used the epoxy primer which was semi-gloss black. It's almost as tough as the clear coat with hardener plus it's a WHOLE lot easier to repaint, and it's cheaper than the custom mixed 902 IH white was.

ANYHOW, Isn't the 800 THE lowest production CC?

NICE looking tractor TOM!

 

[mschutz]

Dennis, My Christmas present "50 years of Cub Cadet" says that only 2,345 units of model 800 were built. The 126, they built 5,247 units.

 

[dfrisk]

Melody - I guess I should straighten up my library! I have Hank Will's first book, "Cub Cadet, The First 45 yrs", right here and it says the same number.

For IH, 2345 tractors wasn't much!

 

[mschutz]

Dennis, The only other low number I can find is the 169 with 4,005 units.

 

[rchristensen]

The leaves are falling here in Arizona now so I got my old PECO vacuum system out and as usual the old Tecumseh engine decided to give me fits. It was either buy a new carb or get a new engine. I decided to try one of those 6hp engines from Harbor Freight.

It was pretty easy to modify the engine mount but the location of the muffler prevented the blower housing from connecting to the engine. The carb and gas tank locations on the new engine would only allow the muffler to be mounted above the engine. I had to use some square tubing and built an extension to move and raise the muffler to a suitable location.

The engine starts and runs excellent, I am quite pleased with it.

This year I am using a new method for bagging the leaves. I use a 45 gallon garbage can with a 55 gallon liner and with some wood block the garbage can up to the PECO outlet. It works good and when it is full I just stop, tie up the liner and dump the bag, insert a new bag and on the go again.