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Archive through February 22, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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A friend of mine on Corvette Forum went to the Zephyrhills Fl Swap Meet and took a picture of this 1934 IH engine.

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The history board reads:
This motor was built by International Harvester in 1934. It was purchased by the city of St Augustine ,FL to power a cement mixer to pour tomb stones. In was abandoned in the late 70s for junk and rescued & rebuilt in 1991.

The machine is made from timbers from the swamps of central Florida, the wheels from an old saw mill and churns from White Mountain.


I thought this was pretty neat and wanted to share it.
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Thanks Bill for the picture
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Jeff
 
Just got the new tri ribs Firestones 16.650-8 put them on 1" wideframe rims witha spacer behind the rim as the super spindles are 5/16 longer.Should make better steering when plowing.
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ok Guys, thanks for posting the snow pics you have. Good to see that snow work. AND BRYAN - thank you for posting some old pics of me. That was a great time. Probably the most fun I ever had. (wish I still had a QA42A - heck, I'd probably drive up into the mountains here just to get a bit of seat time).

Tim Ham - I just realized I said Kohler had .003 oversized rings - I meant .003 oversized PISTON, not rings. Sometimes you can get away with honing the cylinder and using a .003 over piston rather than boring the cylinder. I don't know if the rings are oversized or if they use a standard ring on a .003 piston. You'll have to check with a Kohler dealer or some of the guys on here for certain.

Kraig, the photo guy - looks like you got some real road work there. Must be a good 20feet wide. I can't tell quite tho - is that a Y in your driveway or a deadend street?

Tom Hoffman - now for you - I saw that BLUE THING - how could you do that???? Your pennance has to be purchasing at least 3 more CCs.

Hydro Harry
Hydros Forever
 
Harry,
Still have some IH's in the shed. I'm pleading the 5th.

Mike,
Those skins look "nasty". Can you give the Forum more info on those special run tires?
 
mike, can you post a pic of your blower for your 982? I have/had many snowblowers, and have never seen one with a spring assist and the shoot rod is on the left.Is this a different set up, because the 982 is longer than the 6-782's?
 
Haven't been here in months - just wanted to make sure that this thing still works. Since I last posted, I've sold my JD318 and have been putting front hydraulics on my Cub 3235 as well as a 3-pt hitch assy. Adding the hydraulic spool valves, etc has been an interesting process. The good news is I didn't even have to swear at it too much. Now THAT'S a change....

Hope to see you folks @ Plow Day and catch up a bit.

Keith
 
Got some cub wrenching in today. I installed the 3 pt hitch on the new 147. I also assembled an electric lift with a slip clutch, with the electric lift parts I had. I have about 3 1/2 electric lifts. I now have 2 that work well and 1 1/2 that are just parts. Both cubs are now ready for plow day. I only have one plow but I plan on running both tractors.

I stopped by Fleet Farm yesterday and picked up another set of chains. I turned my existing 4 link into 2 link. Does anyone know where I can buy peerless 2 links off the web? I haven't had any luck finding a site.

(Message edited by tcbusch on February 26, 2006)
 
Terry B,

You can get Peerless 2-Link Chains at Sears. They sell them for 23x8.50x12 and 23x10.5x12. You can get them off of their website or if you go to your local Sears they can probably order em' for ya and you can save on shipping costs.
Here is a link for the 23x8.5x12:
http://tinyurl.com/or562
Here is a Link for the 23x10.5x12:
http://tinyurl.com/n5ept
 
KEVIN, TERRY - Last Dec. I needed a set of 23-8.50 chains..... I tried all the usual places like Farm & Fleet, local Simplicity dealer, even a real good local hardware store.... I finally found a used set of 22.00 X 9.00 X 10" ATV chains marked $25 at another local dealer that fit My Firestone 23.8.50 X 12's just fine. Sometimes You can find replacement cross chains at places like implement dealers for a Buck or two each.... lot cheaper making 2-link spacing chains that way then tearing up another set of chains. I always keep a couple around for replacing broken cross chains on My old tire chains. Last week during Our BIG SNOW Son cleaned about half of the drive with My loader tractor. Without chains He couldn't even get to the deepest snow. We threw the chains on and I could push snow places He couldn't even drive.
 
Kevin,
Thanks, The ones I got from Fleet Farm are in the ATV section of the peerless catalog. The ATV chains have half links welded to the cross links. These welded half links are used for ice traction. The Sears ones are in the garden tractor section. I wounder if the garden tractor chains have the ice links welded on them. When I did a web search I was looking for the ATV chains, I was working off what I had bought in the past. Then I just moved over to the 2 link section. Anyways, I ordered the chains from sears and I will see if they have the ice links.
 
Terry "B",
I'd be careful with the "Ice links", they will tear the hell out of your drive.
 
Tom,
My driveway is gravel. I don't have any of that fancy asphalt the rich folks have.
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The nice thing about the ice spikes is that they give me better traction as I drive in and out of my car trailer. I use the car trailer for hauling 6 foot logs for firewood. I found that chains on 2x8 wood planks gives you less traction than rubber tires. Then when I back down the ramps and hit the icy roadway the chains are better that rubber.

Maybe I need studded tires..........
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Last week there was some discusion about the anti-rattle springs, and how to properly install them.
Well yesterday I got around to replaceing the worn out clutch disk in my 122 with a new aluminum disk and resurfaced clutch plates and I installed the anti-rattle springs as per the photo in the faq's and when I went to shift gears the drive shaft would not stop rotateing, allowing the shifting of gears without grinding the grears.
Now befor someone jumps in and says to check the piolet bushing, its not the probles.
I had to unhook the anti-rattle springs as they where holding the clutch disk against the clutch plate with enough force as to keep the driveshaft turning and not alowing a smooth shifting of gears.
Now my question is how do I remove the anti-rattle springs without haveing to go through all the wrok of slideing the motor ahead? Is it possable to do this?
 
LONNY - What everyone always thinks is the creeper shifter on My 72 is actually a countershaft brake to stop the driveshaft when sitting still and shifting into gear.... It's just a threaded rod 3/8" dia. in a pair of aligned factory punched holes in the frame right ahead of the reduction housing with a rubber pad that rubs against the driveshaft. The lever itself is a piece of 3/8" ID tubing with the 1/2" square lever and a flat steel pad about 1/4" thick by 1" wide. The vinyl knob on the lever is something that I picked up off the floor along the final assembly line at FARMALL, it's the vinyl grip from a hydraulic remote control lever off a XX86 series. I wouldn't remove the springs. Use Your clutch/brake pedal lock when You park Your tractor for a while with the engine running and the springs & clutch disc will wear in and release cleanly.
 
Well I decided to do as Dennis F. suggested this morning, even though I had not seen his suggestion until a minute ago.( I was asleep until 11am after getting home this morning at 3:30am)
After locking down the clutch/break pedal I let the engine run at 1/3 throttle for a half hour, when I checked on the drive shaft it was no longer turning and I could shift the gears without grinding them.
I took the tractor for a short tirp through the wods to see if everything was working as it should and only had to gring the gears once when trying for reverse, the tractor was at an ackward angle which is probly why the driveshaft did not stop turning. In short I do belive that after a few hours of run time everything will be working like it should.
 
Does anyone know how well a 582 would do with a plow? Also if anyone could post some pictures of the factory 3-pt setup for this tractor it would be appreciated. I bought the book (cub cadet the first 45 years, and was dissapointed in that the 3-pt setup is not described in detail) Hydro lovers please take it easy on me, I'm hoping to add a 782 to my collection in the near future.}}
 

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