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Archive through February 17, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bjamison

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Dec 3, 2005
Messages
812
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Binder 1650
My 1650 w/14 hp engine is amazingly quiet. Much more so than any old iron I've owned. This observation is from the drivers seat, so the neighbors may think otherwise.
 
Kieth, Why not build your own for much les. The one I built turned out really well, I think. Got a nice mellow sound to it.

Only thing is, it's about 3 lbs heavier than the OEM because of the much thicker wall 5" tube so I beefed up the support on the outlet end of it.

283837.jpg


283838.jpg
 
Does any one know the stroke length of this cylinder and inside diameter,for my 125? Tks

283841.jpg
 
was out with the 169 today and while pushing snow I noticed snow flying around the side of the tractor and it was the exhaust snorting air and blowing the snow around.

The exhaust on the k341 is horizontal and can puff pretty hard
 
Rick B...the disconnect clutch uses centrifugal force to engage its clutchs to turn the drive shaft..Check attachments under (428) for a 1812 model in parts lookup. A gear drive clutch would be good option to fab a disconnect.
 
David, I think I will try to build one. At least my welding would be hidden. I thought you had some pics on your progress on the muffler but I can't find them now. You used a stack from a diesel truck right.
 
In 5 different pieces of IH literature I own for the 82 series, including:
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2 versions of the full literature
"yellow & red" pocket guide
full size spec sheets
Sales know how guide (how to sell new features against the Quietline features)

The high back seat is specifically mentioned in print and shown in all photos except the mowing photo in the full color literature.

I believe IH marketed the 782 and 982 with high back "deluxe" seats as a distinguishing luxury feature for the high end models and fully intended that these models receive the seat upgrade......BUT, it would not at all surprise me if the production line didn't get the message, or didn't have the seats to install.
 
I have a problem with the "end run" (meaning the left light as the power enters from the right)headlight burning out. The bulb only lasts a 1/2 hour or so. The wiring is newer but looks kinda' thin. Is it possable it's burning out quickly because it isn't getting the correct juice? What guage wire should I rewire it with if the thin wire is the problem? Vibration??
 
Tom, if the wire is too thin, the bulb will be dim and probabily smoke the wire. I was using 18ga wire when I did some work in the past. Vibration maybe a problem, also check the voltage out of the generator. If the regulator is out of spec, voltage could be higher than wanted, it could also affect battery life.
 
Odd thing is it's always the left bulb. It was snow like a b---h and I didn't want to mess with it at the time. This will be the third bulb. I'll check for vibration.
 
Tom, check the tail light assembly where the bulb sits. Sounds like it is shorting out at the bulb. or maybe the hot wire going to that tail light.
 
Steve any chance we could see a blow up of the sales guide comparing the 82s to the Quietline tractors? That sounds pretty interesting.
 
Is this the wrong spot to post a question about 125 hydraulic lift?
 
Joel G.
No it's not the wrong section.

If you can wait until tomorrow night, I'll go out and dig a path to the back shed and measure one.
It's 15 miles from where I'm at now, LOL
I've got to go out and blow snow anyway.
 
No no Charlie don't do that, I just didn't get any responses, so I thought I was doing something wrong, no rush,
 
Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - thanks for posting the pics of those pages I mentioned. Seems to have brought out some interested AND the latest from Steve on the Quiet Line series vs. 82's.

Steve - yes please if you can figure out some way so we can see that Sales Guide you mention about selling the 82 features against the Quiet Line series.
 
roger that! The most snow accumulation I have had in four years. The 71 is working hard, the ol'161 seems to have a lot of life left, headed back out,...going to change the oil using recommended Cub Cadet low ash 10W-30, and will re-fuel. I shall save the old, widowed neighbor lady too!

Serious snow in effect!
 
TOM H. - If the wire running from light-to-light is small, the left light would be dimmer than the right, I'd use a minimum of 16 Ga wire on all my wiring, and 14 is better. Most of my wiring work gets 12 ga now, I bought a roll around work bench & storage cabinent from work that came with several THOUSAND feet of different colors 12 Ga MTW wire... all for Ten Dollars.

Also check the head light panel to make sure it's tight, vibration can kill lights quick like that. You know all those Chevy p/u's, late 90's vintage you ALWAYS see with one burned out frt parking light? I read a little blurb in a magazine years ago, the "molded grill" is too stiff, transmits too much vibration and a new bulb will fail in minutes on rough roads. Took GM until the next model change to fix it. Once the grill cracks, both parking lights last forever.

FWIW, on my old '96 F250, in 17-1/2 years, and 301,600+ miles, I've replaced one head light element, both license plate lights due to corrosion, and about two dozen clearance light bulbs on the cab roof. Quite a change from my first car, '70 Chevy Nova, sealed beam head lights last six months at most, always carried a spare with me. Same deal as the Chevy trucks, vibration.
 

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