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Archive through February 16, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie, you were supposed to send that north! All we got was about 1/2", if that.
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My old tired K161 finally passed on in my model 71. i think the piston and the rod went seperate ways. I am looking for advice for a sutiable replacement or upgrade for my 71.
 
Kraig,
We only got about 4" and I ain't sharin! LOL

Ed Hall,
Rebuild it, you or I won't be around long enough to have to do a rebuild again anyway.
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Serial number 123,741 followed me home last weekend. The gentleman included a 12 hp engine needing an overhaul along with. The rod broke on the 70. I haven't been feeling well lately so it is still on the truck. I wasn't going to keep it however the 100 that I got last year is serial number 123,618. The closeness of the serial numbers plus the overall appearance is winning me over. The deck is in nice shape also.
+++ jpeg +++ 34036 +++ engine for the tractor is in the
garage +++
34043.jpg

A different type of blade. Notice the bent rod to for steering? The steering has the rod out front instead of behind the cast spindle.
34044.jpg

The lift lever attachment is adjustable.
34045.jpg

The rear tires are in nice shape with mild weather checking.
34046.jpg

The pedestal will eventually be replaced.
34047.jpg

The blades are almost new.

Quick question that I know has been asked before. Do I have to change the oil pan to put an Original engine in place of the 70 engine? I have a spare Original engine that is supposed to run and I just may install it until I get the 70s engine rebuilt. TIA.

P.S. Charlie P. Glad that you like the snow. We got a little over an inch and it is way too cold to be outside now.
 
The pan will fit but you will have to put nuts on it as the Original has nuts welded under the frame the 70 has threads in the pan.
 
Thank You, Mike.
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The engine that the rod broke is the original engine with the tractor. Just like the 100. I hope to have the 100 up and running by month's end. Both tractors will be workers.
 
Hey Charlie, ya forgot one place on your rounds!! MY place!!
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Spent over an hour cleaning up tonight after getting home from working in that god forbidden Tundra of a state called Wisconsin to find a nice blanket of fluff to be bladed away.
 
I have a 1650 that I want to modify with a hydrostatic forward/reverse foot pedal. Instead of using solid rod linkage I thought of using a heavy duty choke cable. Anyone have any experience using choke cable in such an application? Also, where can I get a heavy duty choke cable? Any info would be appreciated.
 
Has anyone had any luck fixing a Cub Cadet Voltage regulator? I have filed the points, bent springs, and still no luck. Thanks
 
Bless me Father for I have sined...........I bought a different smoker that's not Yellow and White or Red and White.
34054.jpg
 
Dave B
There are a few master craftsman on this forum thst have done that, and am sure that photos will fly soon...
As for a cable, i have used a push-pull cable successfully in the past for things like that. they are used (or use to be) on snowplows. Much heavier than choke cables. I used to get mine through NAPA
 
David G. I have 'saved' 3 Voltage Regulators by using the repair/adjustment instructions in both the NF and WF service manuals.

However, there have been 2 that still would not work afterwards...even with drastic adjustments to the voltage output spring/tab/screw...so I saved the 'Delco-Remy' cover, and trashed the rest.
 
Dave - I saved my regulator by replacing the resistor on the back. I used a ceramic, 75 ohm, 10 watt resistor and then went back through the adjustments. Works fine now but yours may have a different problem.
 
Hey All,

My 109 has no shut off valve on the gas tank. Was this something a PO did or did some tanks come without a shutoff? I'd like to unscrew it and replace it with a shut off but I'm afraid of breaking a weld or something. Any info on someone's experience would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim
 
David G.
I used to fix the regulators but now I run mostly Quietlines and the regulators work or are junk. If I remember one of the problems I encountered was resistance on the isolated feedthroughs, caused by rust and this would cause the battery to discharge when tractor was not used every day. Sometimes I could repair by brushing around the feedthroughs with a wire brush, but sometimes I had to drill out and replace. You need a good meter to check the resistance.

Here is a drawing I found that I made up of good and bad regulators, it might help.

34056.jpg
 
Tom H. At least it isn't one of those green ones. Not bad looking. What year and how many hours? And will it be at Plow Day?
 
Mechanical Question. (gonna show how little I know about engines now) I just purchased another 1250 CC and was told it needs rebuilding. I went ahead today, in the midst of the sleet and snow which we don't get very often here in Bama, and cranked it to see how the motor sounded and if the hydrostat was working ok. Anyway to make a long story short it is smoking pretty badly when it comes under a load but idling or just motoring up and down the driveway it clears up pretty good. After running it about 20 minutes and putting it back up in the garage when I raised the hood I noticed oil dripping off the muffler from the top side(top of shroud is missing so you can see the muffler pretty good). It pretty much tells me that the head gasket is blown and I guess my question is does this mean the rings are broke causing it to blow oil on top of the piston and blow the head gasket or could the head gasket be the only problem here. I suspect the problem is broke rings causing it to force oil out around head gasket but I need a more Kohlerknowlegeable opinion. Hope someone can help here. Not afraid of tearing it down and re-ringing it just don't know all I need to know.
Thanks, Tim H
 

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