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Archive through February 13, 2013
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Don,
Here is the troubleshooting list from Kohler:
Cannot Reach High Idle RPM (No Load)
Choke not completely opened
Throttle control cable clip loose
Throttle control improperly installed
Fuel filter or line clogged
Fuel inlet line too small
Fuel running low
Fuel tank too far from engine
Fuel pump malfunctioning
Gravity feed tank below carburetor
Foreign material in carburetor
Carburetor out of adjustment
Spark plug gapped wrong causing intermittent firing
Drive system binding
Is the new filter suitable for gravity flow?
Could it be installed backwards?
Is the carburetor high speed needle valve adjusted correctly?
Plenty of fuel?
Tank shut off valve fully open?
Good luck!
Here is the troubleshooting list from Kohler:
Cannot Reach High Idle RPM (No Load)
Choke not completely opened
Throttle control cable clip loose
Throttle control improperly installed
Fuel filter or line clogged
Fuel inlet line too small
Fuel running low
Fuel tank too far from engine
Fuel pump malfunctioning
Gravity feed tank below carburetor
Foreign material in carburetor
Carburetor out of adjustment
Spark plug gapped wrong causing intermittent firing
Drive system binding
Is the new filter suitable for gravity flow?
Could it be installed backwards?
Is the carburetor high speed needle valve adjusted correctly?
Plenty of fuel?
Tank shut off valve fully open?
Good luck!
Ken Freeman
Ken , I sonic cleaned the card and all new internals except float and I tested that.You can see the filter is half full of fuel . I set the carb at factory starting points. spark plug is new set at .35 I think. I think I will drain the oil in the am and be careful not to over fill. It is some over the fill mark now and the oil might affect the fly weights on the governor
Ken , I sonic cleaned the card and all new internals except float and I tested that.You can see the filter is half full of fuel . I set the carb at factory starting points. spark plug is new set at .35 I think. I think I will drain the oil in the am and be careful not to over fill. It is some over the fill mark now and the oil might affect the fly weights on the governor
Don-Im thinking more of a fuel problem. The oil level being a little over full IMO isnt going to affect the governor that much.
Also, IMO that fuel filter should have more fuel in it. If you have another chunk of hose, just switch out your fuel lines and give it a try. I've had Kohlers that will do the same thing. Run beautiful at idle and balk running through the rpm's.
Also, make sure you have enough fuel in the tank
Also, IMO that fuel filter should have more fuel in it. If you have another chunk of hose, just switch out your fuel lines and give it a try. I've had Kohlers that will do the same thing. Run beautiful at idle and balk running through the rpm's.
Also, make sure you have enough fuel in the tank
Kendal Harvey
I had my tack out and was ready to set wot . so the throttle stop is pulled way back .you can see in my picture that it is adjusted way back.
In the am I will drain the oil and refill to speck and might try point adjustment. I have it set at 16 and that might be the issue. I will try another setting to advance the timing some and see what it does.
I had my tack out and was ready to set wot . so the throttle stop is pulled way back .you can see in my picture that it is adjusted way back.
In the am I will drain the oil and refill to speck and might try point adjustment. I have it set at 16 and that might be the issue. I will try another setting to advance the timing some and see what it does.
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1650 update - Pulled the front axle, me and the boys used bolt to pinch the axle clevis. Got a good engine cradle now and am near ready to install the engine.
Some quick questions - while I've got the engine out, anything else I should attend to while I've got wide open space to work with? I've got good isolators, good cradle, cast iron oil pan on the engine, did a super steer mod - what else on the front end of the tractor should I check/fix/tighten-up?
On a different note - quick question:
Is the only issue in putting a QL engine into a 1x8/9 tractor things like engine tin, different exhaust, etc., or are there physical interferences with the engine going into the frame - i.e. bendix type starter hitting the frame rail? Is the electric PTO positioned differently than the mechanical one - or does it hit the frame? Reason I ask is that I'm reading the dialog on this from provious posts and thinking - I've got an extra QL engine. If I were to find a tractor less an engine or attempt to use a QL engine in my 109 one of these days - and given that it is a worker vs a 100% refurb, who cares if it has a bendix starter vs a S/G or an electric PTO vs a mechanical one. One thing I don't really see with these IHCC's is folks swapping a single cylinder Kohler with a new engine like a Honda or Briggs or Kohler Command. Some of the other color tractor guys will do a swap like this - usually to a twin cylinder engine. Are the frames on a WF tractor wide enough to accept engines other than Kohler singles?
Another quick question - how much less of an arm strong lift do you have if you put a spring assist on a manual lift? Both my 109 and 126 are manual lift. I'm also considering an electric lift for the 126, but a spring assist might get the job done. I'd be lifting front blade, deck and from time to time maybe a moldboard plow.
Don T - my 109 will is very difficult to run when there's about 1-ish inch of fuel in it. I would agree that the fuel filter being not full (on a gravity feed) could indicate a fuel flow problem.
Some quick questions - while I've got the engine out, anything else I should attend to while I've got wide open space to work with? I've got good isolators, good cradle, cast iron oil pan on the engine, did a super steer mod - what else on the front end of the tractor should I check/fix/tighten-up?
On a different note - quick question:
Is the only issue in putting a QL engine into a 1x8/9 tractor things like engine tin, different exhaust, etc., or are there physical interferences with the engine going into the frame - i.e. bendix type starter hitting the frame rail? Is the electric PTO positioned differently than the mechanical one - or does it hit the frame? Reason I ask is that I'm reading the dialog on this from provious posts and thinking - I've got an extra QL engine. If I were to find a tractor less an engine or attempt to use a QL engine in my 109 one of these days - and given that it is a worker vs a 100% refurb, who cares if it has a bendix starter vs a S/G or an electric PTO vs a mechanical one. One thing I don't really see with these IHCC's is folks swapping a single cylinder Kohler with a new engine like a Honda or Briggs or Kohler Command. Some of the other color tractor guys will do a swap like this - usually to a twin cylinder engine. Are the frames on a WF tractor wide enough to accept engines other than Kohler singles?
Another quick question - how much less of an arm strong lift do you have if you put a spring assist on a manual lift? Both my 109 and 126 are manual lift. I'm also considering an electric lift for the 126, but a spring assist might get the job done. I'd be lifting front blade, deck and from time to time maybe a moldboard plow.
Don T - my 109 will is very difficult to run when there's about 1-ish inch of fuel in it. I would agree that the fuel filter being not full (on a gravity feed) could indicate a fuel flow problem.
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Don T - another thing I was thinking about regarding the fuel filter is that some filters are designed for gravity feed (like a push mower) and others need a fuel pump to give the gas a push. FWIW, I had a bad fuel pump on one of my other color tractors and the fuel tank on it was very similar in position relative to the engine like the IHCC you have. The tractor's fuel pump wasn't getting the job done, so I figured, why not plumb the fuel hose directly to the carb and forget the fuel pump - after all the fuel tank is above the engine. The tractor would start like a champ, idle and rev-up to some extent, but when I put a load on it - like moving the tractor forward and to a greater degree, engaging the mower deck, the tractor would stall every time. I replaced the fuel pump and the tractor ran great. So you may have a fuel delivery problem.
Don T,
Do you have your throttle cable locked onto the little arm extending out from the block under the carb with a snap lock like the one shown in your picture for the choke cable? If you don't have your cable attached to the arm with the snap lock, the cable wire sheaving will move back and forth and not apply and tension to the spring attached to the governor.
Do you have your throttle cable locked onto the little arm extending out from the block under the carb with a snap lock like the one shown in your picture for the choke cable? If you don't have your cable attached to the arm with the snap lock, the cable wire sheaving will move back and forth and not apply and tension to the spring attached to the governor.
jchamberlin
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Bill: I think I've heard on this forum before that you can put a V-twin in a wide frame or a QL series tractor. I can't think of a case where it's been done, though.
You might want to post a "Quick Question" in the Pullers and Hot Rods section of the forum.
You might want to post a "Quick Question" in the Pullers and Hot Rods section of the forum.
I set the governor and in those instructions it say to use pliers and move the pin and lock in place and to then lock the throttle so an idle can be achieved. btdt On any cub engine on should be able to push on the governor rod and the engine should rev up , I have done this on my 149 and it will go to wot. This 125 engine will stop. I don`t know why yet but I will find out why.
Don-
Didn't you recently find a plugged shut-off or partially blocked? Could some trash have slipped by?
I'd take the carb off again and just blow it out well. It's easy enough to do and might take twenty minutes. A little nat hair could have gotten in the high speed needle.
Didn't you recently find a plugged shut-off or partially blocked? Could some trash have slipped by?
I'd take the carb off again and just blow it out well. It's easy enough to do and might take twenty minutes. A little nat hair could have gotten in the high speed needle.
jharvey
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Don
I've had that sympton before. As I advanced the throttle to fast I could save it from dying by applying choke. I removed the high speed adj. screw and sprayed carb cleaner into the hole. I then cleaned the needle (hollow) by running fine wire through it and carb cleaner. When reassembled it ran and I could proceed with carb adjustments.
I've had that sympton before. As I advanced the throttle to fast I could save it from dying by applying choke. I removed the high speed adj. screw and sprayed carb cleaner into the hole. I then cleaned the needle (hollow) by running fine wire through it and carb cleaner. When reassembled it ran and I could proceed with carb adjustments.
Watching for a responce to Bill "J" post. I'm about to do just what he's talking about. I know there will be some different wiring issues, but now I'm not sure about the starter set up. STEVE B. ARE YOU OUT THERE??? I think you've done this before?
hydroharry
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Don T - my vote is a fuel delivery problem. 1st make sure you have at least 1/2 tank of gas. If you do then remove that dang filter (was it Ryan said put on another fuel line). I'll bet that is your problem.
Bill J - to many questions for quick answers. If I were gonna put an AQS into a 1x8/9 I'd either convert everything back to the old style engine, or I'd keep it complete AQS. I think Jeff mentioned something about having to drill into the block. I have no idea what or why. The basic block is the same.
Bill J - to many questions for quick answers. If I were gonna put an AQS into a 1x8/9 I'd either convert everything back to the old style engine, or I'd keep it complete AQS. I think Jeff mentioned something about having to drill into the block. I have no idea what or why. The basic block is the same.
Guys I replace the shut off today and blew out the tank and I think I will clean the high speed jet in the morning. I have to spray the rest of the tin and finish this 125. I will have to order a set of decals from Charlie soon. thanks for all your suggestions so Far. Much appreciated
kostendorf
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About how long does it take to pull the engine out of a Q/L to change the ISO bushings? I got plastic bags, marker and boxes ready to go.
If I remember right, there was talk in the past about the AQS engine missing the threaded hole to mount the starter/generator belt tightening bracket and that the hole spacing for the s/g mounting bracket was different than the spacing for the automotive type starter.
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