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Archive through February 13, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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bmoore

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Bruce Moore
Anthony,
With "The 15th Annual California Antique Farm Equipment Show" going on at the World Ag Expo, I would think you could find some more tips for your project work (and share with others).
Take some good pics and ask some good questions. Have fun and learn at the same time? What a concept!
Sorry for the double post. Guess it hung up when the page changed.
 
Tim G., welcome! I agree with what Myron and that you have a model 86. Perhaps someone swapped the hood and dash or just the decals or it is a 108 and someone swapped the Kohler out.
dunno.gif
 
Tim G: Kraig just reminded me that the Kind/Code/Serial number on that little ole tag on the left rear will tell exactly which model it originally was...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Still snowing and blowing here, maybe I'll get to use the 1450 and thrower again.

Here's a couple of pictures from our December snowstorm showing what happens when you have a fluid-filled rear tire with only ~3 psi and no tube.
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Now you know why Rock Crawlers use Bead Locks. Fluid and no tube = bad idea.
 
Matt, bummer! Looks like you were just getting started too.
 
Kraig-

Yep, and the worst of it was, I wasn't even at home. I had to walk 1/3 mi. home, get another tire with chains, tools, and I dragged the new tire back on a sled. I cannot imagine how stupid I looked pulling a sled down the road with a tire in it.
 
Matt, you only looked stupid if someone saw you.
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Silver Tounge Anthony, you will not be able to see all that is at the World Ag Expo in one day. It is one heck of a show. While standing in line to get in, I visited with people from Germany, Ukraine, Wisconsin, and Iowa. I lived in Hanford, CA at the time and have been to the show 3 times.

Enjoy the show.

To keep on topic, my E85 powered 782 did a great job moving snow this morning. We only had 2 inches. I could hardly sleep last night waiting for my morning fun.
 
First things first here with the cub ready to tackle what's behind door #1 in the morning.

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The weather didn't disappoint with 3-4" waiting for me in the morning with another 4" or more expected yet today. Here's the resulting pile from this morning - about 4 feet high.

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Help me out on this as I had thought the serial # only told when it was made not the model #
Tim G: Kraig just reminded me that the Kind/Code/Serial number on that little ole tag on the left rear will tell exactly which model it originally was...
G.L.
 
GLEN C. - Power washers and tractors DON'T mix well. The high pressure overcomes seals & gaskets and contaminates oils with water & in some cases detergents designed to dissolve grease & oils. It also washes out grease & lubricants from slow moving pivot points accelerating wear and causing corrosion. FWIW, I have a FORD diesel pickup with almost 300,000 miles on it that I have NEVER cleaned the engine or transmission on it....Same with My Cubbies, and Farmalls, etc. etc. I look at it in about the same light most people would look at power washing electrical power tools!
Also, My Father-in-Law was an engineer for a company that makes little green combines in E.Moline, IL....and when He bought a little green rear engine riding mower He froze the thing up solid in about 2-3 months by washing it with a garden hose every time He got done mowing. His dealer finally told Him to stop washing the mower so He sold it!
 
G.L., for the earlier models you cannot tell what model it is from the SN (well, you can tell what series it is from but not the specific model, i.e., a 70 from a 100). On the 73, 1x6/7 series on there is a "kind code" in the S/N that tells what model it is. Myron B. deciphered this code and has shared it with a few people.

Myron, did I get that correct?
dunno.gif
 
Kentucky Ken - I'd go as far as to say ANYTHING on rubber tires that goes less than 30 miles per hour needs INNER TUBES. Since that's slightly above the normal cruising speed of most Cub Cadets, especially ones with tire chains, If your going to spend the $$$$$ on fluid please spend the $10/tire for a tube. I look at the rear rims on My Super H and compare them to the four year older rims on Dad's old '51 M....the Super H always had calcium chloride solution and now has rust around the valve stem for the last 30+ years and the M NEVER had fluid and the rims still look like new.... Granted Cubbies aren't 53 and 56 years old yet but there's some that are getting close!
 
Glen C.,

I'd also suggest you limit or end using water on your Cub. I very rarely ever use water to clean my 129 (once maybe in three yrs). My opinion is that it will only speed up any rusting & corrosion at metal joints & wire connections, mess up my electrical components, wash out the grease at the various greased joints, and get into my hydro vent or behind my valve cover or points cover.

I do, however, use an air hose to carefully blow out the dust/grass/leaves in & around the engine cooling fins & shroud, hydro unit, top of mower deck, etc. EVERYTIME after I've done any mowing. Then I carefully wipe down the outside of the hood,fenders, wheels off with a old dry towel. You'd be surprised just how clean that practice will keep your tractor.

If an oil leak develops, I notice it right away because it will cause debris to stick to it. My practice will allow me to detect it and then repair any leak as soon as I feasibly can.
Ryan W
beerchug.gif
 
I see an ID tag on the rear end. is this the one you are talking about?

I have a spec # on the engine if that means anything.
 
I am vertically challenged but I brought my stool with me. How is everyone else?
 
Got about 5 inches, this is my neighbor plowing his driveway.

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