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Archive through February 12, 2018
- Thread starter cyarrison
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Thanks Digger,I figure what I’ll do is a layer of rtv on the tractor side,then cut a new gasket,then a sight layer of rtv on the cover itself to cover any imperfections in the Straightened cover,I hadn’t fiddled with the 149 in a few days so I hadn’t noticed the dinner plate sized pool of hytran under it.
mfrade
Well-known member
She's just markin' her turf Ethan! 
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ethan-
No RTV...there are some pretty specific applications that it is good for, and this is not one of them. Fix the problem instead of adding a band-aid. Make sure the cover is straight and flat, remove all gasket residue from the cover and transmission housing, and if the bolt holes in the cover are indented from the bolts being overtightened, use a ball peen hammer to flatten or even slightly dent them to the outside of the cover, and use a new gasket. If you are still worried about it leaking, use gasket sealer, not RTV. RTV is not gasket sealer.
I have seen everything from valve cover gaskets to tires (seriously) "sealed" with RTV. Had a KT-17 that had probably 5 minutes on a rebuild that threw a rod into the cam because a giant glob of RTV got stuck in the oil gallery in the crankshaft. People just love to put that stuff where it doesn't belong, or use WAY too much in places it does.
No RTV...there are some pretty specific applications that it is good for, and this is not one of them. Fix the problem instead of adding a band-aid. Make sure the cover is straight and flat, remove all gasket residue from the cover and transmission housing, and if the bolt holes in the cover are indented from the bolts being overtightened, use a ball peen hammer to flatten or even slightly dent them to the outside of the cover, and use a new gasket. If you are still worried about it leaking, use gasket sealer, not RTV. RTV is not gasket sealer.
I have seen everything from valve cover gaskets to tires (seriously) "sealed" with RTV. Had a KT-17 that had probably 5 minutes on a rebuild that threw a rod into the cam because a giant glob of RTV got stuck in the oil gallery in the crankshaft. People just love to put that stuff where it doesn't belong, or use WAY too much in places it does.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Mark Street,
If it died at idle and is now locked up, consider yourself lucky.....you didn't GRENADE your 16hp at 3600 under load!....instead you locked it up at idle and likely didn't hurt the crank and definately didn't crack the block.......It SUCKS, but it is the best possible situation for a locked rod bearing.
BUT.....before you give up on it, take the Electric PTO off of it and try to roll it over....a locked PTO bearing could cause issues....
If it died at idle and is now locked up, consider yourself lucky.....you didn't GRENADE your 16hp at 3600 under load!....instead you locked it up at idle and likely didn't hurt the crank and definately didn't crack the block.......It SUCKS, but it is the best possible situation for a locked rod bearing.
BUT.....before you give up on it, take the Electric PTO off of it and try to roll it over....a locked PTO bearing could cause issues....
Mike F., yep, that's the page. I hadn't noticed that the address actually states "BobsPage"...
Ethan-
If your 149 is leaking that much get ready for a tractor splitting party. More than likely the gasket between the pump and the rear end is shot. Some members here say the tractor doesn't need splitting but it does make things quite a bit easier. And go back with an OEM gasket...no substitutes or you might be splitting the tractor again (BTDT).
.
If your 149 is leaking that much get ready for a tractor splitting party. More than likely the gasket between the pump and the rear end is shot. Some members here say the tractor doesn't need splitting but it does make things quite a bit easier. And go back with an OEM gasket...no substitutes or you might be splitting the tractor again (BTDT).
.
"If it died at idle and is now locked up, consider yourself lucky.....you didn't GRENADE your 16hp at 3600 under load!....instead you locked it up at idle and likely didn't hurt the crank and definately didn't crack the block.......It SUCKS, but it is the best possible situation for a locked rod bearing.
BUT.....before you give up on it, take the Electric PTO off of it and try to roll it over....a locked PTO bearing could cause issues...."
Thanks, Steve. Will get working on it today.
BUT.....before you give up on it, take the Electric PTO off of it and try to roll it over....a locked PTO bearing could cause issues...."
Thanks, Steve. Will get working on it today.
Wayne-I watched the hytran dip out of the uneven rear cover.as I mentioned that I fixed the cover at my work,so I dont think I have to waste any beer on a tractor splitting party yet LOL.Matt g we use at my work an engine sealer that’s specifically made for assembling engines rear diff frt diffs t/cases etc.that use gasketless applications I was going to use some of that in conjunction with a new gasket,believe me I think like you FIX IT RIGHT.but if you believe that’s not necessary after straightening the cover I wont
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Ethan,
A very light coating of gasket dressing in this application is not a bad thing, especially if you instal and remove a tiller gear box regurlary. But as Matt said...not gobs of RTV and very sparingly....
A very light coating of gasket dressing in this application is not a bad thing, especially if you instal and remove a tiller gear box regurlary. But as Matt said...not gobs of RTV and very sparingly....
Ethan,
One other thing to do involves the bolts for the transmission back cover plate. I always clean the holes and bolts with carb cleaner and then coat the bolt threads with a light coating of gasket sealer before installation. I've found from experience that sometimes the factory drilled the holes slightly too deep and the bottom of the hole has just started to break through and penetrate into transmission reservoir area. This allows HyTran to weep into the threads and out past the bolt head.
One other thing to do involves the bolts for the transmission back cover plate. I always clean the holes and bolts with carb cleaner and then coat the bolt threads with a light coating of gasket sealer before installation. I've found from experience that sometimes the factory drilled the holes slightly too deep and the bottom of the hole has just started to break through and penetrate into transmission reservoir area. This allows HyTran to weep into the threads and out past the bolt head.
Ron good thoughts,I kinda wish I had just sucked the old hytran instead of disturbing the cover but I’d rather fix it now than have a problem later.like I said if I still leaks after tonight...Digger can look forward to an order
You guys are good. Steve came the closest to solving my issue (He mentioned the PTO) with my 1650 engine frozen completely solid. Finally got the front casting, muffler and muffler shroud off. Very slow: Most of the aluminum casting to which the muffler shroud attaches is broken where the screws attach so over the years I've jerry-rigged nuts and bolts to hold the shroud tightly.
Anyway, got to the PTO. First thing I noticed was that even though the 9/16 PTO nut was tight, the PTO pulley could wobble loosely about 1/2" up and down. Removed the pulley n noticed behind it where the 3 thin metal fingers are that one finger is broken and the PTO pulley no longer sits centered but is pulled off center.
Engine is no longer 'frozen' and turns by hand just like it used to. Now need to know if I can somehow weld that broken finger or try to find another PTO/pulley. Got to get into the parts finder. Any thoughts anyone?
Anyway, got to the PTO. First thing I noticed was that even though the 9/16 PTO nut was tight, the PTO pulley could wobble loosely about 1/2" up and down. Removed the pulley n noticed behind it where the 3 thin metal fingers are that one finger is broken and the PTO pulley no longer sits centered but is pulled off center.
Engine is no longer 'frozen' and turns by hand just like it used to. Now need to know if I can somehow weld that broken finger or try to find another PTO/pulley. Got to get into the parts finder. Any thoughts anyone?
Mark-source a new pto assembly for your 1650,the 149 is squared away for now I believe THANK YOU guys for your input,ultimately it’s Matt Gs suggestion of flattening the bolt holes with a ball pein hammer and a bit of gasket sealer,no gray sealer from work needed
Ethan, check your rear end casting as well. I lost the photo I took last year of dad's 1450 that developed the same issue. We over torqued the rear cover and broke the casting holes. It still has a tiny drip from the pump gasket I made up and need to buy the correct one and redo this year. I used a skim coat of the rtv for gear cases, etc only on the cover. I didn't want it getting inside the pump. I used a gasket from Charlie on the cover.
Dave K. Thanks, I like the light a lot. I'm going to end up fixing the 100, but will do all I can to get the cab on the other 125 I picked up last fall. Probably just with a spring assist only though. Cab is on a 104 right now. I'm on the hydro band wagon now for snow at least.
Dave K. Thanks, I like the light a lot. I'm going to end up fixing the 100, but will do all I can to get the cab on the other 125 I picked up last fall. Probably just with a spring assist only though. Cab is on a 104 right now. I'm on the hydro band wagon now for snow at least.
Earl F.
It's a great idea if you plan on taking the tiller mount on and off a lot.
It's a great idea if you plan on taking the tiller mount on and off a lot.
Earl-funny you mentioned the cracked/broken casted bolt holes yes one of them is cracked on my 149 I’d say 1/8 of inch of the lobe is broken off and I inspected the S..T out of the others I’d say someone in my 149s past went all samsonite gorilla when tightening the bolts.i did find evidence of clear silicone usage in the past as well.i figure that’s why it didn’t leak until I did my maintenance update last week disturbed a band aid as Matt g put it earlier,as for the stud idea is sound and something I thought of also but now that I confident that the leak is fixed I don’t intended on removing the tiller mount unless I need to,I’m looking for a drawbar to attach to the tiller mount
