Archive through February 12, 2016

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks lou gotta get out there this summer for the frank sinatra hour!!! Ill bring your friend little frank. I Got to get this o together for him haha
 
I made a boo,boo Bob,the lift rods are different,not sure which one is longer.
 
Thx lou. I will do some homework. I have the one to measure on the danco. I will dig it out. Thanks my friend.
 
That stainless deck is sweet I wonder what grade and gauge he used?

I have always wanted to do a 1x9 in red
 
Morning gang!

Whew, we got dumped on again yesterday. About another 8" of snow accumulation, and the temperature is around -10* at the moment,....

Went to my local Cub Cadet dealer and picked up an engine oil change for my 1450. Got two quarts of 10w-30 Cub Cadet oil that came in a bag! Got the oil changed in the 1450 and started up fine and cleared the drive way before retiring to bed last night.

Charlie, your customer has a nice red narrow frame going on! Amazing SS cast iron-end mower deck is beyond cool!

Hydro Harry, Must be those narrow frame gear drive garden tractors that have the raised tunnel cover that can have cracked corners along the bottom of the dash tower due to the clutch yoke mounting location. But not all or every have this problem.

Now, my model 100, 71, and 72 do not have those related problems, yet they are all narrow frame, all-gear drive garden tractors, respectably. My model 72 has a real nice, better than stock, clutch yoke with a grease fitting.

I love my hydro 1450! But if I were to attend a plow day, it would be with an all-gear drive IH Cub Cadet. No foaming Hy-Tran here, and the mechanical energy transfer system is the stronger of the two!

On another note, going to the folk's house to fire up the model 72 and clear that drive!

Dress warm guys if your out today!
 
John L and everyone - ok, lets have everyone check their Narrow Frame gear drive tractors. You will need an assistant.

Have the assistant depress and release the clutch pedal while you watch the bottom front corners of the dash tower. This is the corner between the front bottom mounting bolt on the side of the tower AND the front of the tower where the yoke hanger is located. I'm fairly certain you will see every time the clutch is depressed and released the metal on the corner and more so on the front, has a slight flex. Eventually that metal corner is going to crack/break.

I first saw and had this cracking on a 122. My fix was to add a metal angle iron brace on the outside - but a better fix would be on the inside since the pressure is toward the rear. The problem attempting to do it on the inside is the corner has very little space to add corner support because of the side of the frame. (I have been thinking Pullers should have discovered this with their high pressure springs. Maybe they came up with a fix).
 
Harry,

From my meager experience, the problem is more common on the gear drive narrow frame TALL tunnel tractors because of the difference in design of the dash towers. The dash tower for a 70/100 71 72 73 is narrower in the clutch pivot area compared to the 102 122 104 124 due to the width of the taller tunnel.

I have pics that show the difference but can't get them resized to show here.
angry.gif
 

Attachments

  • angry.gif
    angry.gif
    898 bytes · Views: 139
Harry, pullers don't care. If it hits the frame, we cut it to make room for the brace. Then add structure to the frame if needed. Remember... You say it all the time. We don't care about being "correct". It just has to be strong.
 
Nic, Harry meant stock tractors.
We all know you hack them up for pulling
 

Latest posts

Back
Top