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Archive through February 09, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Marty, Christopher, I'll see if I can get a measurement on the steering tube for a 127. I have some in my parts stash that I can dig out over the weekend. Provided I don't forget.
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David R., yes the decals are backwards but that's not what I was referring to. They are different in that they go full length of the hood and do not terminate with the outer blue strip wrapping around. If they were just backwards (applied to wrong side of the hood) there would be the wrapping blue strip at the dash end. Also the font used for "Hydrostatic" looks to be off. I'm thinking aftermarket decals.
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Christopher, please don't think I'm ripping on your 127, just noticing details.
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It appears to be in very good condition. Much better than my #2 model 125.
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Hey Kraig that 125 has the storied AGH (Anti Glare Hood) option!
 
Craig,
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yep! Also SML, (Stalk Mounted Lights) and RMB, (Rear Mounted Battery).
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Kraig, No offense taken! I appreciate gaining the knowledge from you guys in any way you give it. If you can end up getting me the size of the steering tube for my 127 that would be more than helpful.

I wish mine had the patina your 125 has!
 
David Kirk-

Great write-up/explanation. I always learn something and this was no exception. I thought of you when I read Jim S's post about his crank issues.

I do find it a bit disappointing that only so much vibration can be removed (and done some wondering about it too) but I have a little better understanding now.

Harry-

Have you started your engine since you had the counter balance installed???...I can't remember any reviews given by you.

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Christopher, there is something to be said for the naturally aged appearance/patina of some of the old Cubs. Not sure I'd use the term patina with reference to my #2 125 though. It lead a rough life before it found it's way to me and I've only done mechanical repairs to it, no cosmetic touch ups, which is probably quite obvious.
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Christopher,
You said your 127 had a horn.
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Could it be the correct one that IH offered?
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(or at least allied equiptment)
This pic is kinda small, but I'm sure Kraig has a bigger one to post.
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Hey Wayne - I've started my 169 a few times. 1st just to make sure it would, and then a few times in an attempt to adjust the timing. I'm still not satisfied with the timing, but I let it run about 20min so I could torque my head, and that's where I got stuck. My torque wrench seems to have stopped clicking. Since I can't work inside my garage the weather has delayed me finishing, so I really don't have a report yet other than to say the shaking so far seems about the same or maybe a little worse, but I really can't say for certain yet.
 
Dave,

And it will DRINK fuel like that too!!!! But you are right......a loaded up thrower lugging a Kohler does bring a smile to the face!!!
 
Digger-got my order today thank you,now I can get that pto plate back on my 149
 
Christopher, 16.25" from the top of the cast aluminum gear box to the top of the steel tube.
 
Sorry Charlie. I was plowing Monday night and some **** hit me on my 100. Me and tractor are still intact, but moving snow isn't on the agenda for awhile. Seat and fenders on cub are bent and my hip's hurting but not broke. Kinda sucks. Surprised the axle tube isn't cracked, but hoping to look her over more this weekend if I feel up to it.
 
Holy cow, how does that happen Earl? Do you have lights? I always worried about that at my old house, I was on a busy street. I put lights on my 86 (when I plowed with it) to help out. Fortunately I've moved to a much quieter street since then.
On a down note I broke the chain on my thrower tonight.
 
He veered off the road and got me in the driveway. Nothing on the back, but I wasn't in the road. Anyway, that is a very good idea! I've been pondering different things and adding some taillights, and even a rear work light would add to my future safety. I'm certain that if I was on anything else not built IH tough, I'd be in worse straits! Just a sore body now. Truck more or less bounced off the back of me/cub and back into the road.

What is the most lights anyone has put on a Cub? I know the charging system and battery won't allow for those ridiculous off road rigs that have 6000 lights but...
 
Jim Storma and Wayne Shytle,

Thank you; hope it wasn’t too much technical word salad. You mention “neutral balance”?? I don’t understand what this means.

I failed to address your question on the connecting rod bearing insert. These bearings are replaceable, shell-type automotive bearings consisting of a steel shell, with a layer of copper, lead, and tin electroplated in layers to form the bearing surface. The relatively soft layers offer imbedability of particulates in the oil to imbed into the bearing instead of scoring the crankpin. This, plus the fact that you can replace the bearing and reuse a connecting rod is the other advantage. Your existing con rod has to be machined properly for installation of this bearing to get the proper preload “crush” on the shells. It offers nothing with regard to performance or increased bearing life. As long as you maintain your engine properly with consistent oil changes, and your current connecting rod and crankpin are in good condition and clearanced to the proper Kohler spec, there is no need to install an insert bearing. The aluminum alloy used in these con rods is actually an excellent bearing material.

Just a little more on single-cylinder engine balance. I’ve always referred to the 12, 14 and 16 hp K-series engines as the “big block” series as they all use the 3.25 inch stroke crankshaft. The corresponding models are the K301,K321 and K341 with the first two numbers in the model indicating the approximate displacement in cubic inches. The displacement increase is accomplished by increasing the cylinder bore diameter. When this is done, the piston assembly increases in mass. The K301 was the first produced engine in this series, with the K321 and K341 following sometime later. With regard to transmitted vibration, here’s how these engines stack up (my opinion):

K301 – Good

K321 – Acceptable

K341 – Terrible!

The massive recip assembly in the K341 (combined with the same counterweight requirement as in the K321) is the driving force behind making this engine a real shaker. Thus it is of paramount importance that the recip mass be kept as light as possible when doing a rebuild. Use genuine Kohler parts when available – I’ve always found these to be the most consistent in quality and light weight when it comes to piston assemblies. If you are rebuilding using an aftermarket piston assembly, compare its mass with the original Kohler parts – you’ll most likely be surprised at the difference.

The picture below shows wrist pins having the same OD and length, but varying in ID. Pin on the left is from a Stens piston, while one on the right is a Kohler part, both for the same diameter piston. The Stens pin weighs almost exactly double that of the Kohler pin. The Stens piston was heavier too, but I don’t remember the difference. I ended up reusing the Kohler pin in the Stens piston.

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The K341 is brutal to begin with and any recip mass increase over the stock weights is going to make a bad vibrator even worse. The counterweight plate that I offer will not make a significant reduction in the high recip forces encountered with these heavy piston assemblies, and neither will balance gears. I don’t have a genuine Kohler K341 piston and wristpin to weigh – this would be valuable info if someone that would have these parts, weigh them and contribute this info to the forum.

I personally like the K301 – it is smooth (relatively) and can be made to perform as well as the K341 with some hot-rod modifications…great fun! The K341 does have good low end torque but this is offset by the butt-numbing vibration it produces. It can be reduced to tolerable levels by close attention to the mass of the piston assembly.
 
Jim, yes I rebuilt it. It took some 30 years to wear out, if it takes that long again, I'll be long past caring. My only additional thought to add to Mr. Kirks, is I'd also balance the rotating components with the flywheel included.

If I thought it would amount to anything, I'd include the pto also. Mr. Kirk has far more experience with the small motors than I and he's always been willing to help. If we can keep this discussion going, many that follow can learn from your "adventure".. LOL.
 

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