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Archive through February 06, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kmcconaughey

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Kraig McConaughey
Hydro, and because I just KNOW you're wondering, left hand thread, grade 2, 1/4-20 nuts are $11.18/100. Hmmm, interestingly enough, left hand thread, grade 5, 1/4-20 nuts are only $8.57/100.
 
...If the AL turn buckle threads wear enough to effect the adjustment.....it won't work at all, because the rod will pull all the way out.

The adjustment isn't more precise than 20 threads per inch.....that's for sure.

Funny, my electric clutches don't have this issue
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David, yep! I see I should have included mechanical vs electric PTOs in my list of debate topics.
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Sorry hydro yes adjustments were successful I found that the rods were bent also so I spend a few minutes straightening the rods before kick off(very exciting games for us New Englanders)
 
Could my 125 be converted to and electric pto setup?????that would be sweet to eliminate levers rods turnbuckles wish I'd have asked before I when through this rebuild crap
 
Not easily with the block you have.

If front was drilled and tapped AND you converted to bendix starter (QL motor), it's pretty easy.......
 
Wow, Steve! Can you define "pretty easy"?
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I could, go find a quiet line engine, and wiring harness, and deposit into frame rails, after removing old engine of course. Might as well just use the quiet line...
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Earl:
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Kraig I think it just turned into the PTO debate!
For my powered attachments, I have them on electric PTO tractors right now. 1200, 1450's, 782. Now with that said, my cozy cab will be on a 105. I've not had the opportunity to work on a mechanical PTO and will see what happens at that time. I'm going to use a thrower on it. My 100 is my blade tractor, most of PTO is missing but I'm not bothered by it at this time. Whatever the case
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Frank
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Pretty Easy = Act of swapping Kohler engines in and out of old model Cub Cadets with very basic wiring/electrical systems.

If you swap a QL engine into an older tractor, then the Electric PTO is doable, beyond that, not so much so...
 
Ethan - glad you got your PTO adjusted. As for the electric conversion, don't do it. Besides the engine style conversion issues (integrated starter, ringed flywheel, wiring harness, etc) you'd need the electric PTO clutch itself, which I believe a new electric PTO is probably well over $300. I'm also doubtful that a ringed flywheel (required for the integrated starter) will fit into your narrow frame CC unit. It's partly why IH went to the first wide frame CC units.

As much as a "flip of the switch" is nice and easy to use, the mechanical PTO is a pretty basic and simple clutch, and as you've discovered really not that hard to rebuild (the more you do the easier it gets).

In fact, I'm gonna say that with proper operation and care the mechanical PTO would probably outlive an electric PTO. My WAG would be 20+ years on a mechanical PTO and 10-15 years on an electric.

Kraig - is the above enough to keep this debate going? And by the way, I think I may have to get one of those forged turnbuckles for my 169. It probably just looks TOUGHER. I'd still use the left hand threaded nut since it keeps both rods nice and straight in the turnbuckle.
 
Hydro,
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OK!!
Round 2 ding ding.....
Should the PTO rods be plated, painted or rusty w/use?
What about the T/B?
Painted or natural aluminum/natural corroded cad or galvanized plated?
 
David - for G_ _ _ sake don't paint'em, but at least get rid of the rust on the rods. Nice galvanized appearance is best, or clear coat if you have to, or very worst case paint the rods with a greyish color so they look almost galvanized. Don't paint the aluminum turnbuckle.
 
Harry, your WAG on a mechanical PTO about right. I rebuilt the PTO on my 149 in 1981 and it is still going strong.
 
John - thanks for confirming my WAG of 20+. 1981 puts yours in the 149 at 36 years. I'd say that was terrific.

By the way, that is a sweet looking 1650 in your profile. Have you done anything with the electric PTO on her? Back when I had my beloved 1450 the electric PTO failed me once. It was before I really knew much about these units (and I still don't know much about the electrics). My initial thought was replacing the entire PTO. I think even in the late 80's the entire PTO was around $300. Dealer told me it might just be the field coil and even tho CCC had stopped selling just the field coil he had one left and it was less than $100. I tried that and it solved the problem, and was still working good when I sold the unit in 2002.

Since I now know a little about them I'd say the field coil is the most likely part to fail and more costly than the likely parts of the mechanical PTO that fail.

So Ethan - don't do the conversion to electric. If you want an electric PTO just go buy a Quiet Line or even an 82 series unit.
 
I've heard the coils can be rewound for the older Cub Cadets with the electric PTO. Now Steve B. as me thinking of re-powering a 149 with an engine from a 1650. Thank goodness that I have enough projects already.
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