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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
So have you got the little clip thing that goes on the outside that holds the shear pin in?
akleyla
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- Amy J. Kleyla
Yes,the picture you posted below that shows the clip goes on top of the gear. The gear goes next to this bracket to put the shear pin from the gear onto the bracket. So basically I have the gear off in the pictures I sent to you.
akleyla
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So my question to anyone is ...do I cut the weld off this bracket and re-weld it after I get the new bearing on or should I try to pull the drive shaft out of the rotor (auger) then put things back together ? Both ways are going to be very difficult. Just wasnt sure if anyone else has run into this before and knew an easy way ?
So back in 2012, your CW36 was hashed over for the first time.
CLICK HERE
CLICK HERE
akleyla
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Ohhh yeah I'd totally forgotten about that. On it I was able to take the shaft out of the rotor. But I don't remember this kind of bracket like this one that was just given to me. My son has the one that got rebuilt for his cub. I agree with finding a qa36 it may be better off. I will prolly fix this repaint it and sell this. I figure for free I couldn't go wrong fixing it up .
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Amy - I'm stumped on your CW 36 auger. Let us know how you do finally make out.
Charlie - my son sent me the pics of the red wheel weight with the old IH and C encircled emblem. I didn't know he would also asked someone else and that person would post a similar question on another site. However, I suppose I should have known.
Reggie W and Russ H - thanks for your comments. I was aware the 12" IH wheel weight also fit the Farmall Cub, but I had understood even some of the Farmall A B and C's, and even some of the Farmall Cubs used a 13" front wheel which required a slightly larger weight that looks similar but not the same. Are you saying the A B and C's use a 12" front wheel?
Lewis - ya, I figured that. The Joisey Boys are real famous for all kinds of casting stuff - mostly out of cement tho.
Don T - did you look closely at the emblem in the pic I posted? Have another look and then have a look at the emblem in your weights. I think you'll see your weights have the IH stamping done in a circular area. I doubt yours will have the large letter "C" encircling the IH. My son's weight has a definite C.
John N and Doug B - I've only used muriatic acid to clean up mortar around bricks myself, but I think there are different concentrations and suspect John probably used one that was really to strong or stronger than necessary. I'd just visit one of the big box stores and just buy a quart bottle of the strength used for mortar cleanup work.
I did see it used to clean up a crank one time by Jim Chabot when Jim and Kenny Weimann and I were rebuilding my K341 engine. Jim did most of the supervising of my rebuild, and in between he pulled the crank out of his K241AQS that had just dropped the rod. He took a small plastic container just big enough that the journal would fit in (no acid in it yet), and set it out in the middle of the floor of his shop (about 40x60) probably 20 feet from where were were working on the engines. I'm fairly certain both the overhead shop doors were open so there was plenty of venilation. Then he filled the plastic container with just enough acid to cover the journal and left it sit about 45 minutes as best I can recall. I think he checked it about every 10 min to see how it was doing. I remember looking at it twice with him and just amazed the acid was just eating away the aluminum on the crank. The smell was fairly strong when you were really close to it. I believe once the acid had removed all the aluminum Jim placed the crank in a large deep sink and washed it thoroughly with lots of running water. I'm not sure if Jim used anything else that would neutralize the acid. He may have had some baking soda or garden line mixture which can be used, and then washed it again with lots of water, then dried it and really oiled it up with lots of oil. I wasn't watching really closely since I was watching Kenny honing my cylinder and doing the valves. I guess to be really safe you should have the baking soda or garden line and neutralize any acid that might be left on the crank.
I do recall Jim measuring up the crank and deciding it was actually still within spec, which really surprised me. He put the engine back together with a new std rod and actually had it running before my engine was done (I think he could probably rebuild a Kohler K even if he was blind folded - yes he was really that good). He had been fortunate his Model 1000 Quiet Line unit with the K241AQS had been idling when the rod broke and it just stopped, which is why he thought he lucked out on the crank being fine.
So Doug, I think all you need is some real weak strength muriatic acid, and be very careful to just get it on the journal area, not the entire crank. If you want you can dilute the acid using water, but you have to be really careful and add the acid to the water very slowly. If you add water to the acid you'll get a reaction that might react sort of like boiling and splash at you. The acid will just devour any aluminum on your crank. If you dilute the acid it may take a little longer than my experience, but it will still work. You'll hear the acid as it eats the aluminum, and you'll want to check it every 10 min so you don't over due anymore than necessary. If you do it let us know how you make out.
Charlie - my son sent me the pics of the red wheel weight with the old IH and C encircled emblem. I didn't know he would also asked someone else and that person would post a similar question on another site. However, I suppose I should have known.
Reggie W and Russ H - thanks for your comments. I was aware the 12" IH wheel weight also fit the Farmall Cub, but I had understood even some of the Farmall A B and C's, and even some of the Farmall Cubs used a 13" front wheel which required a slightly larger weight that looks similar but not the same. Are you saying the A B and C's use a 12" front wheel?
Lewis - ya, I figured that. The Joisey Boys are real famous for all kinds of casting stuff - mostly out of cement tho.
Don T - did you look closely at the emblem in the pic I posted? Have another look and then have a look at the emblem in your weights. I think you'll see your weights have the IH stamping done in a circular area. I doubt yours will have the large letter "C" encircling the IH. My son's weight has a definite C.
John N and Doug B - I've only used muriatic acid to clean up mortar around bricks myself, but I think there are different concentrations and suspect John probably used one that was really to strong or stronger than necessary. I'd just visit one of the big box stores and just buy a quart bottle of the strength used for mortar cleanup work.
I did see it used to clean up a crank one time by Jim Chabot when Jim and Kenny Weimann and I were rebuilding my K341 engine. Jim did most of the supervising of my rebuild, and in between he pulled the crank out of his K241AQS that had just dropped the rod. He took a small plastic container just big enough that the journal would fit in (no acid in it yet), and set it out in the middle of the floor of his shop (about 40x60) probably 20 feet from where were were working on the engines. I'm fairly certain both the overhead shop doors were open so there was plenty of venilation. Then he filled the plastic container with just enough acid to cover the journal and left it sit about 45 minutes as best I can recall. I think he checked it about every 10 min to see how it was doing. I remember looking at it twice with him and just amazed the acid was just eating away the aluminum on the crank. The smell was fairly strong when you were really close to it. I believe once the acid had removed all the aluminum Jim placed the crank in a large deep sink and washed it thoroughly with lots of running water. I'm not sure if Jim used anything else that would neutralize the acid. He may have had some baking soda or garden line mixture which can be used, and then washed it again with lots of water, then dried it and really oiled it up with lots of oil. I wasn't watching really closely since I was watching Kenny honing my cylinder and doing the valves. I guess to be really safe you should have the baking soda or garden line and neutralize any acid that might be left on the crank.
I do recall Jim measuring up the crank and deciding it was actually still within spec, which really surprised me. He put the engine back together with a new std rod and actually had it running before my engine was done (I think he could probably rebuild a Kohler K even if he was blind folded - yes he was really that good). He had been fortunate his Model 1000 Quiet Line unit with the K241AQS had been idling when the rod broke and it just stopped, which is why he thought he lucked out on the crank being fine.
So Doug, I think all you need is some real weak strength muriatic acid, and be very careful to just get it on the journal area, not the entire crank. If you want you can dilute the acid using water, but you have to be really careful and add the acid to the water very slowly. If you add water to the acid you'll get a reaction that might react sort of like boiling and splash at you. The acid will just devour any aluminum on your crank. If you dilute the acid it may take a little longer than my experience, but it will still work. You'll hear the acid as it eats the aluminum, and you'll want to check it every 10 min so you don't over due anymore than necessary. If you do it let us know how you make out.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Harry, Mine was for mortar clean up, purchased at the local Big R store in the paint department, nasty stuff. Remember this is hydrochloric acid that has been diluted.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Doug, Harry, If I were to do it again( but I won't), I would do as Harry said, in a small container just big enough for the journal and do it outside away form everything, The fumes are what gave me problems in the shop, not the liquid. I did some more looking after I used it and found this is a common problem, Others had the same results after using.
jnicklas
Well-known member
If I remember correctly, while looking I think it also mentioned oven cleaner( easy off), works slower but not as potent to the surroundings, and I think navel jelly, but I am not sure, this was 2 years ago. Clean up is the most important part, On my last clean up with emery cloth I coated it with baking soda let is set for a little while , cleaned that off then coated with grease and that seemed to work. I just don't want anyone to go through what I went through, I did loose a few thing because of the re-occurring rust.
amy, others:
CW-36 shear pin -
They intended the shaft to come out of the rotor, to get to the flange bearing behind the shear pin tab. After 50 years, it was too hard for us. We had to remove the tab.
The older CW-36 and the parent BB-36 did not have this lame shear pin setup.
You will probably need to remove the tab, or the rotor will be hurt trying to remove the shaft.
btdt
CW-36 shear pin -
They intended the shaft to come out of the rotor, to get to the flange bearing behind the shear pin tab. After 50 years, it was too hard for us. We had to remove the tab.
The older CW-36 and the parent BB-36 did not have this lame shear pin setup.
You will probably need to remove the tab, or the rotor will be hurt trying to remove the shaft.
btdt
hydroharry
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Charlie - thanks for posting that link back to 2012 and Amy's discussions. I need to "right a wrong" and wondered if you can edit my post in the archive. In my post of Thursday, Sept 13, 2012 at 10:59PM I said the following:
(This QA42A bearing and locking collar is the same one used on the tractor manual PTO clutch although it's not listed with the same part number - but I've changed several and it is the same).
I didn't intentional lie in this statement but I know it's not correct. As you probably well know, the auger bearing and the PTO bearing are not the same - although with just a quick look they appear very similar. The PTO bearing has a flat outer surface and the auger bearing has a slightly raised/rounded surface (which helps hold it snug in the flanges). This issue goes way back in time to when my CC parts dealer in CT told me they were the same bearings just had different part numbers. I never really compared one to the other, just assumed she knew what she was talking about. I bought several of these over time (both for PTO's and for snow throwers) and at some point did notice the difference - but then wondered if the flat surfaced PTO bearing would work in the snow thrower flanges because of what she had told me. So I really don't know why I said I changed several and it is the same. I have in fact changed several but I also know it is not actually the same.
If you can edit my post in the archive and include the following I’d appreciate it:
Edit - The PTO and snow thrower auger bearings are not the same, and it's very unlikely they can be interchanged.
Thanks for your help,
(This QA42A bearing and locking collar is the same one used on the tractor manual PTO clutch although it's not listed with the same part number - but I've changed several and it is the same).
I didn't intentional lie in this statement but I know it's not correct. As you probably well know, the auger bearing and the PTO bearing are not the same - although with just a quick look they appear very similar. The PTO bearing has a flat outer surface and the auger bearing has a slightly raised/rounded surface (which helps hold it snug in the flanges). This issue goes way back in time to when my CC parts dealer in CT told me they were the same bearings just had different part numbers. I never really compared one to the other, just assumed she knew what she was talking about. I bought several of these over time (both for PTO's and for snow throwers) and at some point did notice the difference - but then wondered if the flat surfaced PTO bearing would work in the snow thrower flanges because of what she had told me. So I really don't know why I said I changed several and it is the same. I have in fact changed several but I also know it is not actually the same.
If you can edit my post in the archive and include the following I’d appreciate it:
Edit - The PTO and snow thrower auger bearings are not the same, and it's very unlikely they can be interchanged.
Thanks for your help,
akleyla
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- Amy J. Kleyla
Ok,had to take a trip up north to my dads to borrow his torch and wire welder. We ended up grinding off the tab and took it off the shaft. We tried heating the drive shaft for the rotor but wasnt able to budge it so thats why we ended up grinding this bracket off. We cleaned it back up and the drive shaft and slid on the new bearing and lock collar then re-welded the bracket on the outside instead of the bearing side. Then ground the weld down to be able to slide the sprocket back next to it for the shear pin. I will say it sure turns so much quieter now. Those bearings were worn down pretty bad. So now that everything is back together im going to take it all apart to repaint the thrower. I may try this thrower out once to see how it works but I really think im gonna look for a qa-36 or a qa-36a. So if anyone else runs into this trust me when I say its easier to grind the bracket off the shaft rather than try to remove the shaft from the rotor.
