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Archive through December 15, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Can anyone tell me the original color of an International 1A tiller? I have a Cub Cadet 129 with the paint not too bad, but the tiller is a solid rust color. I thought maybe it was International Red, but I have seen photos of some in a cream color of some sort.
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Jim - IH used three different "whites" but I think most guys paint their tiller to match their cub's white. Check the FAQ up above for the paint number for your cub's serial number and go with that shade of white.
 
They're talking 6-9" of snow now. Hope so. I'm ready. (hope the 149 is too)<font size="-2">
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Here's a re-post of my message from last night. No one saw it or no one wants to answer it. We will see. Thanks to those intersted in helping.

Hello all. It's been a long time since I have posted here. Not much Cub action lately for me, just normal grass mowing. Tried to buy a model 70 this fall strictly for snow plowing, but no luck. I flinched and lost a shot at the deal. Anyway, to the real reason for my post. I just put one my push blade, chains, wheel weights and helper spring. I am ready for the 5-8" of snow we are supposed to get Saturday. (We won't get it now that I am prepared!) Three questions: 1. I have never lost a tire chain, but is there a correct direction or method to put them on? 2. I let out a little air in my tires as I put my chains on and then refill them, seems to help to put them on and make them tighter. Right, wrong, or in-different? 3. Tire pressures, fronts say up to 28lbs., and I have 20lbs at this moment. Rears say nothing about pressure, and I have them at 10lbs. (They are the original turf tires that came on my 1974 CC 1250. Thanks for your help.
 
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Here are the pics of my 128's clutch. The wear in the center on the clutch release arm is what I am concerned about. Could this wear be welded and holdup? Also the hole were the clutch rod passes through is oval shaped and the rod would move up or down when the clutch pedal was depressed. Anybody got a fix for that, without buyin a new one?
 
Todd H.-

I'd check ebay or the sponsors for a new one. Those things are hardened, so unless you re-harden it, it won't last very long. Or put a want ad in the classifieds. There should be enough used ones around that you won't have to buy a new one. Did you true up the pressure plates on a lathe? You'd be surprised how warped they get.
 
Thanks Matt, I have checked the sponsers for a new release lever. Chris W. has a new one for under 45$. I am going with a new one. I was wondering if that was a hardened part. I checked the pressure plates and found that they seem to be in preety good shape.
 
Short block assembly resumed and was completed today-

I ran into a snafu last night; when I lapped the valves, I found that the intake valve guide was not concentric with the valve seat. I made a quick trip with the block to the machine shop touched it up. My assumption is that this is what previously ended the life of the engine in OEM form, as it repodtedly used oil. If the valve guide and valve seat are not concentric the valve head will try to find "home" until it works the valve guide wider, and then increasing oil consumption. With that solved, reassembly resumed with installing SKF 6308-C3 bearings, a high quality USA-made bearing.
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The exhaust valve recieved a light coat of anti-sieze and the intake, a light coat of assembly oil. Valves were installed and the cam was installed with two .010" shims. Next came the other bearing was installed in the bearing plate, and the crankshaft assembled to that. After trial & error the gasket and 2 paper shims were installed to get correct crankshaft end play.
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Next the Super Cub billet rod and JE piston were assembled. Checks for ring gap and clearance were made as well. Spiral locks were assembled to retain the wrist pin and the bearing was installed on the rod. The assembly was dropped down the bore and assembled to the crankshaft. With the longer rod combination the skirt of the bore needs to be clearanced, note the pictures from yesterday. I completed that operation before the block was bored. Here's a shot looking at the block to rod clearance:
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So as it sits tonight, here's the short block, assembled with the exception of bolts being torqued- I'm still trying to find the correct torque for the four rod bolts on the Super Cub rod, if anyone knows, please e-mail me.
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Here's the "insides"
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You'll notice that there are no balance gears installed, this engine was out of a very late production 1450. The bores for the balance gear pins exist, but still have the factory plugs installed in lieu of the shafts. Kirk Engines balanced the crankshaft to work with the piston/rod combination. Every part on this engine is new, and going foreward with the rest of the build I'm holding as close to "new" as possible with the intention of leaving a little chance of any small failure.

The next steps over the next few weeks will be to get a stator (I'm tempted to get the 25A stator ILO the factory 15A stator), record the cam specs, set the ignition timing, and assemble the mechanical fuel pump. I'm currently trying to find out if an Kohler 10hp Magnum head has adequate room for the large K321 exhaust valve I have, so far no answers are to be found. With any luck I'll be able to break the engine in inside yet before spring.

This engine is part of a 5-year long project building a Cub Cadet with the sole purpose of plowing (the 141 Wheatland as it has been known). Though the tractor will appear somewhat custom, as many factory Kohler and IH parts are used, just not necessarily as it left the factory. For lack of a better term, a restomod Cub Cadet.
 
CCote, thanks for the link. I must tell you that this is a tough crowd, and I am usually intimidated. There are guys here that make two seaters or bulldozers out of their Cubs. The guys here talk and treat their Cubs like fine time peices. I am a little more rough than that. However, I try to do right by my Cub, specially after having been to the IH show in Fredricktown, MO. Makes a not so precise guy like myself feel a little intimidated as I said. So, I was just hoping to do the right thing. I take my time and get the plow (A Bolens blade by the way) on ane everthing set-up correctly. Then while I am plowing snow I get a little crazy and start bouncing my Cub off cars, curbs, and other obstacles. I am sure the serious Cub owners would all gasp when they see that.
 
Paul K, no intimadating guys here (especially me). Only time they get that way is when ya think ya know more or try to out do them. Overall the best place to find anything IH Cub related.
 
Paul K:
Nah - this crowd isn't all that tough and you'd be surprised at how some of the equipment gets treated, even <u>after</u> it's been restored...
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Paul K.
The days of the correct police are pretty much gone it seems sometimes, BUT, they are out there and they are watching.
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Charlie-

How about an "after" pic? It was too dark and there wasn't much action as the 1512 is pretty light in the back...
 

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