Ok, the Off Topic thing is gettin a little out of hand.
You want to talk CCC/MMTD, you know where the Topic Section is, use it.
You want to talk CCC/MMTD, you know where the Topic Section is, use it.
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Archive through December 11, 2012
- Thread starter mhomrighausen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
HARRY - I've never had my 982 set for down force on the rockshaft or 3-pt. I did have to swap the sway limiters around on the 3-pt to eliminate sway in the down position for when I pull my lawn aerator with the 982. Sometimes I get lazy and want the hyd lift.
Down force on a 44C or 50C deck doesn't sound like a good idea. I've had to weld up hairline cracks on my deck housings where the rear gauge wheel brackets attach on my 50C and 44A decks I've had and I don't use them that hard. I carry very little if any weight on them at all since they normally run about 1/2 inch off the ground.
I've never had a 1872/2072 sitting next to my 982 to compare differences. I have heard of frame cracking on 982's around the rear of the engine, just ahead of the steering console. I check my 982 a couple times a year. Yes, heavier steel would be nice in some places. I was looking at my buddy's off-topic tractors a couple weeks ago. They use heavier steel, but of ALL the stupid things, they have long arc welds ALL over the place. Their engineers must not have ever heard that steel hardens next to the heat effected zone and is prone to cracking/breaking.
Down force on a 44C or 50C deck doesn't sound like a good idea. I've had to weld up hairline cracks on my deck housings where the rear gauge wheel brackets attach on my 50C and 44A decks I've had and I don't use them that hard. I carry very little if any weight on them at all since they normally run about 1/2 inch off the ground.
I've never had a 1872/2072 sitting next to my 982 to compare differences. I have heard of frame cracking on 982's around the rear of the engine, just ahead of the steering console. I check my 982 a couple times a year. Yes, heavier steel would be nice in some places. I was looking at my buddy's off-topic tractors a couple weeks ago. They use heavier steel, but of ALL the stupid things, they have long arc welds ALL over the place. Their engineers must not have ever heard that steel hardens next to the heat effected zone and is prone to cracking/breaking.
Harry B.
The numbers on both is EXACTLY the same.
Only the maker name changed.
The numbers on both is EXACTLY the same.
Only the maker name changed.
proessler
Well-known member
Mike P, Aaron @ Extremeautoworks.com (Click bus. card above) makes an extension to put on QA36/42's.
I went cheap & used a 2x6 with 3/8" redi rod across front between 3"x18" flat steel pieces on either side of the QA42A . I used 2 lag screws thru the steel flats into the 2x6 on each end. Not very pretty for a pic, but very functional...
The extension helps alot especially when working deep snow & drifts...
I went cheap & used a 2x6 with 3/8" redi rod across front between 3"x18" flat steel pieces on either side of the QA42A . I used 2 lag screws thru the steel flats into the 2x6 on each end. Not very pretty for a pic, but very functional...
The extension helps alot especially when working deep snow & drifts...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Charlie - based on what you're saying, that the numbers are the same, then the 75 at the end must not indicate 1st year of certification, or any year for that matter, since it would have been produced in the 1972-1974 time frame when the 1x8/9 series was being made. This just doesn't make sense to me. I just don't know if I can accept this and turn the page - it more likely will sit in my gut and churn for along time, and come up every once in awhile.
Bill R - I can't say for certain and maybe others will pipe in here, but I think you can just rotate your current pin and drill a new cotter pin hole at 90degrees off the current hole. Must be someone else on here that converted a Brinly adapter style pin to use with a tiller attachment.
Bill R - I can't say for certain and maybe others will pipe in here, but I think you can just rotate your current pin and drill a new cotter pin hole at 90degrees off the current hole. Must be someone else on here that converted a Brinly adapter style pin to use with a tiller attachment.
More from Joseph on his 1650.
hydroharry
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- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Joseph - ya know, I almost hate to say this, but you just won't be able to use that tire to suppress the vibrations of that K341AQS Kohler
Now, if that is not your intention, did you remove the engine to try and find one of the points cover screws? If so, they usually fall down on the frame right between the ISO-bar and the frame, and somehow just get caught there. I usually try a magnet but that sticks to everything else so I end up using a wooden stick or something similar to push it out. Dang screws anyway.
So, if none of this is what you're up to then just what are you planning???? Are you removing the front axle to tighten up the axle channel? Replacing ISO-mounts??? Just a generally good clean-up???? I did notice you put the bolts from the lower grill housing back in the bolt holes on the frame. I like that - and it sure helps you find them when you're ready to re-install.
Now, if that is not your intention, did you remove the engine to try and find one of the points cover screws? If so, they usually fall down on the frame right between the ISO-bar and the frame, and somehow just get caught there. I usually try a magnet but that sticks to everything else so I end up using a wooden stick or something similar to push it out. Dang screws anyway.
So, if none of this is what you're up to then just what are you planning???? Are you removing the front axle to tighten up the axle channel? Replacing ISO-mounts??? Just a generally good clean-up???? I did notice you put the bolts from the lower grill housing back in the bolt holes on the frame. I like that - and it sure helps you find them when you're ready to re-install.
Hydro, I believe the proximity of the 1650 to the Hobart welder might be a clue...
... perhaps an engine cradle mod.
Harry, pretty much all of the above. Motor mounts, axle channel squeeze, drivelinr service, and a good darn cleaning. I swear some of that grime has been there since '75. It was much easier to remove the engine to really be able to get in there for cleaning amd everything else. And as far as the tires supporting the 16k, I had the engine in my arms and had to quickly come up with something to set it on and they were right there. My son is having surgery tomorrow, so hopefully friday I can get everything washed up. I
