Archive through December 11, 2012

[nbartee]

Okay, here's the deal about the tail lights. I saw another set of holes drilled on my 1450 so I assumed the PO installed different lights, because I could see about half a hole on each side and that's why I asked for a closeup which was provided by Kraig. In the meantime, I welded up those holes, which, evidently, were stock according to Harry. I guess I could re-drill them but doesn't seem necessary.
At any rate, I did find that the tail lights I removed were Reflectolite 300, SAE-PC-67, so I guess they were original after all.

 

[dheerts]

I am leaning toward the 1862 as well. comes with Deck, blower, blade, and cab as well. in really nice shape. What's a good/going price for an 1862 with all those attachments, chains, wheel weights, cab, etc.

 

[nbartee]

I'd choose the 1862 also.

 

[digger]

Norm B.
The aftermarket Grote flat 82 series style replacement tail lights do have a slightly wider hole pattern, that's the reason for the other holes.

 

[hydroharry]

The GREAT LENSE DEBATE:
(or lens for some of you)

Charlie -

Now just how could the wider offset holes in the fender on the 1x8/9 and QL units be for the '82 series lights???? IH hadn't even thought of the '82 series when it made those fenders.

Ron R - your recollection is exactly as I was thinking could have occured. Thanks for that confirmation. Now, we just need someone to find the "original" lenses that do "not" have the SAE numbers or at least 75 at the end.

Jeff B - I'm with ya. We're gettin' close (even tho Charlie is trying to confuse us).

 

[dtanner]

Well got the last two cubs put into winter storage. I could not get my 149 to start and after checking everything I found the Autolight spark plug no. 216 was nfg. That makes two of those this week.I have two point savers in the mail I think and Now need to buy some more spark plugs. I hope I can find them here local .9 batteries on the shelf now and two that a nfg and will need to replace them in the spring . I wish I could get more than two years from my batteries. Later Don T

 

[digger]

Harry B.
Probably because I sell 5 to 10 sets a week!
And I HAVE to know things like that.

Under Edit,
I NEVER said the holes in the fenders were wider.
I said!
"The aftermarket Grote flat 82 series style replacement tail lights do have a slightly wider hole pattern"

 

[jsalatino]

Since you guys are talking a lil bit about s/g , I've got a question for you. Could anyone tell me what the difference in a 2 prong s/g vrs 3 prong s/g ? I got it off a guy that sold me a cub a while back , He through it in with the deal. He couldnt tell me the difference between the 2,other then he hooked a jumpbox up to it and it turned over. I figured somone here would probably be able to give me some info on it,thanks

 

[hydroharry]

Charlie - you're still trying to confuse us. You left off the end of your statement below to Norm that says "... that's the reason for the other holes." BUT you do raise a good point. Why did IH put 2 extra holes in each side of the fenders that are not used for the light mounts? (And you can just barely see about 1/2 of each hole when the light base is mounted, but I think they are completely covered when just a reflector is installed.)

 

[mfrade]

All I was saying Denny is 4 inches of snow won't even slow me down, even heavy wet snow, been there, done it and got the tee shirt.

I have 2 elderly families on either side of my corner lot. So I do all the sidewalks and even their driveways plus mine. Yes, the first cut can be a bear if it's thick enough, the creeper helps out there, and your right about the thrower likes to be between 70 and 90 percent full, but don't sell a 7/8 hp tractor with a 36 thrower short, it can get the job done!

 

[hydroharry]

Mike, Dennis and Steve - very interesting discussions about the 7 or 8hp units with a snow thrower. And even more so, the BB36 is really more of a 30" with wings on it to cut 36, so it's really eating a bigger bit with a smaller auger, which might also be why it works well in the 4-5 inch snow range and then may drop off quickly - I'm making assumptions here, not having actually used one. Also, just to provide another view along with Dennis' story about a sloped driveway, I used to help my neighbor when he couldn't get his "off topic (WH) unit to plow his snow. I actually couldn't throw snow going down his drive with my 1450 and QA42A. I had to drive down the slope and then I could throw it going "up". I had #75 wheel weights and chains on my 10.5 wide tires but going down the slope my tires would spin and I just couldn't get the proper speed to throw the snow. When I would go up the slope it seemed to offset the weight of the thrower back more towards the tractor and I got the traction I needed. Overall I think everyones situation has so many possible variables that you have to try and see what works - it's all part of the fun learning what you can and can't do with your machine. One thing I will add is that I did try a rusty thrower one time and I do believe a rusty housing, auger and chute really detract from the throwers performance. Ya gotta keep'm painted up so that snow don't stick.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Hydro Harry. That is what the nurse told me was my hearing loss. Kind of frustrating when there are certain times you truly can't hear the sounds that used to be so clear.

Schultzie. That is one neat picture and one very happy little guy. Thank you for sharing them.

 

[sblunier]

Snow throwers:

Mike, Understand your point, and the 7-8hp units certainly can get it done.....

BUT....

It takes HP to do this work with a 42"......

In this case, it stopped A) when the top of the chute was under the snow bank, B) when so much fell over my top extension that I was in danger of getting stuck (locked into the bank), or C) when I just couldn't shove the thrower into it any more.....it was heavy snow....

 

[hydroharry]

Steve B, Mr. Plow - now that looks like a nice set up. No tin box to echo all over, but some nice basic protection. I do have a question tho. You've mentioned a few times it takes HP to do the work with a 42". Wouldn't it be more correct to say it takes HP accompanied with a correct torque curve? You mentioned before 14hp minimum with a hydro and 42" thrower. I really enjoyed that combination, but thought the 16hp would give me just that little extra for the tougher snow. I see you're running a 782 in your pic but I recall you saying something about repowering with an 18 or maybe 20. Do the twins have a similar torque range of the singles? I ran an 18 in a SGT 1872 for a summer doing grass work, and it was really nice with the power steering but I don't think I ever really got into governor demand. I sorta felt like it had the HP but maybe not the real torque pull range of a 14 or 16 single. Since you're familiar with all these I thought I'd ask for your comparison input. I realize the 1872 is an SGT and CCC had actually stripped a lot of the steel and weight out of it, but I also know you run an 1872 and 2072 so you must have comparison experience and knowledge. Thanks for your help.

 

[brhodes]

Only about 1 inch of snow in West Michigan so, thanks to Chris W. / Hydro Harry and Smitty I'm putting a #1 tiller on a 122. Yesterday got the 3 pt on with the spring assist and tiller is bolted on. Of the 3 large pins I have none have the large hole in a vertical position while the small cotter pin hole is in the horizontal position. My ask is what is he distance of the two holes in relation to the back end of the pin? I would like to modify one of the current pins by drilling a new small hole.

Today I hope to get some time and put the mule drive and belt on. I hope the belt it's the right one.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell ; Art

(No tin box to echo all over, but some nice basic protection )

I think that tin box noise would be an easy fix. I watched a trucks program some time ago and they did a repair on a floor of a truck,they welded in new steel and then sprayed on a coating to reduce road noise. I bet that same spray could be used in the cozy Cab to make it very quiet;I bet Art gets a bit of noise just from panel flex and the spray on would cut that down as well and take away a lot of echo and hollow sound.I would love to find a cozy Cab and have spent many hrs look for one in Canada .I would love to find one to put on my 1512 and then do the turbo mod lol. I think the 15 hp diesel has a lot of grunt now and think with a turbo and 6 lb of boost I bet I could have a real snow blowing monster . Well I can dream

Art ;if your interested I did find the product I would use and it can be painted over.

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/boom-mat-acoustical-products/boom-mat-spray

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - I think it was MATT G who posted a nice chart from Kohler with the HP & torque curves of most of the single cylinder K engines. Maybe somebody saved it and can repost. Each model had a different curve and torque peak, but HP always peaked @ 3600 RPM. The twin cylinders would all have similar HP peaks @ 3600 and torque peaks around 2200-2600 RPM. Since you're blowing snow @ 3600 RPM the HP peak is most important. The fact the torque increases as RPM drops is referred to as "Torque Rise" so that as the engine gets pulled down more it pulls harder. And I'm sure the Kohler and I know my Onan have pretty good torque rise.

Other than the PS there really isn't much difference between a IH built 982 & a 1872/2072. Just no IH emblems/decals on the newer yellow/white tractors. Not sure when the diecast rearend housing started but both cast iron and diecast housings are shown in my 982 parts book.

Far as what makes a good snow blowing tractor, blowers are power hungry, as long as you can keep the drive belt from slipping, the gear box from gernading, and the roller chain from breaking, or pealing the flighting off the auger, you still haven't got too much HP.

MIKE F. - You DO realize that your comments about how powerful your 7 HP # 73 is puts you in the same catagory as someone who mowed foot tall grass with a #71 years ago.... in THIRD Gear direct drive.

 

[mpatterson]

Great pictures Steve, never get tired of looking at that 782 blowing snow!

You did trigger a thought in my pea brain though, your "extension" on the blower. Anyone ever try to add one to a regular QA-42 or 36 blower? I am going with the thought it is there to assist with taller drifts and deeper snow to help guide it into the auger instead of rolling over the top of the blower housing. If someone was handy with steel, they could have a "custom H" blower could they not? Just a thought, maybe not a good one though?

Its starting to snow here this morning, maybe it will keep up!

 

[jfsirois]

Steve is that a QA thrower it looks good.

Yesterday I bought a model 450 two stage blower for my 782.It was used by the original owner on a 1811
everything seems to match up (pto lift lnk ect)

Has anyone had experience with the two 3/4" quick pins used to hold the carrage to the tractor?
The original owner used 3/4" threaded rod 14" long nutted on both ends. It seemed sloppy and wear on the frame holes had started.It also never had a quick attach 1/2" rod shown in the manual but never installed judging from the paint.

the new parts breakdown shows a 1/2-13 weldnut on the frame and bolts instead of pins. since I have no holes yet I may go that route, but I am not too kean on welding the backside of the frame with the motor in. Any comments would be helpful. I think I will add the quick attach rod as I think it will stiffen things up and help with alignment. the part is nla, but it looks simple enough to fabricate.Do you think that is mild steel or something hardened? Thanks John And on hearing loss It always happens to us who love and are surrounded with loud things. I use ear molds from the audiologist and peltor muffs when I use the thrower, chainsaw ,16"tablesaw, ect knocks down about 90 db so the tinitis doesn't get louder. no fun but you got to pay to play Happy Holidays John

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - "I hear ya" (had to add that with so much discussion on hearing). Yes I realize in your north country a tin box would be nice, I hear there are some places up there you'd use it and the snow thrower year round

Dennis - thanks for the info on the "torque rise". I think that's what Steve is referring to when he mentioned "HARD into the Governor", and sounds like what I felt when running the single Kohlers and one time on with a twin. It feels like real power to me. I'll have to see if I can find that info Matt G put together.
As far as the 982 and 1872, I've never actually seen/touched a 982 but as much as the 1872 was nice I couldn't believe what CCC had done. Besides the aluminum rear end that I could lift with one arm, the fenders had no stiffening panels (between the wheels and frame). They might look the same as used on the IH '82 series, the Wide Frame and Quiet Line, but they cut the guts out of the fenders and added a support box just to hold the battery. The side panels seemed more like they were made out of tin rather than steel. I will say the front axle was nice and I liked the adjustable feature. Another thing I noticed and wondered if the steel frame on the 982 was the same as my 1872 - when I got my 1872 I didn't realize it was set up for down pressure especially since it only had a mowing deck. When I pushed the deck down it would actually lift the tractor AND the frame flexed on the side where that height adjustment cam is located. I could see that continuing to do that the frame would eventually crack there where that bolt tightens the cam to the frame. The steel on that taller frame is just to thin and needs some stiffening behind that area. Have you noticed any of this on your 982?

I guess it's early today and no one has provide any more info for the GREAT Tail Light Lense Debate. Still needing numbering info from the 1x8/9 series lenses. Hoping someone has a REFLECT-O-LITE lense without the SAE numbers or without the '75 at the end, or even different numbers. Since it appears the 75 indicates the first year of certification it just doesn't fit that these would be original lenses for the 1x8/9 series, so what is the original lense?