Archive through December 05, 2016

[hydroharry]

Jason - I'm glad you posted your response. In one of your earlier posts you asked about disconnecting the cam shaft from the drive shaft and I got really worried. I now see it was likely a typo on your part and you do have a pretty good understanding of the main components. Get us some pics of what you see right after you remove the oil pan, and then some pics after you remove the rod cap nuts or bolts (it depends on which version of rod you have). Then some of the experts on here can tell you the next best steps.

KenTUCK - is my limit half a page? Geez, I never had one that long yet. Probably take a million words. As for priorities and wife's 37th, it's Wed so you better be in the shop. Tonite is another story.

Nic - I think the only IH bolts on the engine were to mount it to the frame. Are you gonna help Jason with removing and installing the cam, and measuring and shimming the cam and crank end play? Since you had a rod that's machined for a bearing yours is a whole different story. I'm actually somewhat hopeful Jason may have the option of doing a quick and dirty fix for now - but I'd like to have him get the crank mic'd to know how much wear it has, and the cylinder wall as well.

Earl - nice classic work-horse 100 there.

 

[nbextermueller]

Kraig, do you have a picture of a std 42" blade on any IH wide frame. It would be the same for a 782 also.

Mike, are you referring to bend in the lift rod of the push-lift? Then yes, it would barely lift the blade. I ending up building a lift rod out of 1" pipe with a 1/2"X1/2" angle stitch welded all the way done the side of it.

If your referring to a regular lift rod, then NO. It's in tension when lifting the blade. I only get flex when I push into a pile and the blade rides up the hill past the lift point and it bows the lift rod out.

My 782 doesn't have the fancy float joint on the blade, so it bends the rod. Which doesn't matter, I bent it on purpose to clear the side panel.


Harry,
We aren't building blue printed race engines here. The cam play only needs to be checked if your removing the old one and using a different cam. Even then it can be done by "feel". In fact I can't remember the last time I pulled out a feeler gauge to check play in a cam, even custom, one-off pulling cams. Yes, I use shims, but it's either too tight, too loose, or just right. Same goes with crank play. If the crank needs to be turned, he's still not likely to pull the bearings out of the block or bearing plate. So going back in would be near zero change.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Photos taken by Chris Bennett.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - now you've gone and done it again. The photos you posted of the 1450 with the blade - the blade has a narrow frame lift bracket on it, and the sub-frame appears to have been converted to fit a wide-frame. You can see the lift bracket on the A-frame hits the front of the tractor, and probably slips off to the side. Have to bend that lift bracket over to get a little clearance. Always hated doing that - rather get the correct bracket for a wide frame.

Nic - I guess we each have a "do it right" method. Without getting into to much detail, my engine guy happens to believe you can get rid of some of the Kohler K knocking if you make sure the cam doesn't have any run-out, and you shim close to same amount of endplay as the crankshaft. I'll know what mine sounds like sometime in the next couple months since I just had him remove my balance gears and install David Kirk's crank weight - I got no heat in my garage and won't get my engine re-installed probably till spring.

 

[jmusits]

Harry - yes I typed cam, but meant crank...damn terminology (I know it's important). I'm glad you are a little more at ease as I definitely respect your advice and opinions.

Ken - my daughter will only have one first birthday so that has to take priority over shop time...hope your wife has a great 37th!!

I do have access to a mic, but I don't know if it has been calibrated recently (or if it needs to be periodically).

Anyways, before I get too long winded, I will post pics as I pull things apart next week.

As far as snow duty goes it looks like my gravel drive will keep breaking shear pins in my walk-behind snowblower for the time being - we have 6 inches in the forcast for Sunday night.

Thanks again for all the knowledge you guys are imparting on me!

 

[mpatterson]

This is what I am working with. Now I tried tonight to remove the bracket to convert it to push/pull for lift lower. I put the new lift rod on - but I can't bend it. I will have to take it to get it heated up to bend it. Biggest thing is am I going to bend it in the right spot!!
So you guys are using either the top or bottom hold to attach the lift rod to the tractor end of lift mechanism?? Mine has two holes in it at the top end, two different sizes.
More pictures to follow....

 

[mpatterson]

tractor end of new lift rod

blade end of new lift rod

notice my lower lift arm (where the deck hangers would attach)are hitting the wide frame portion of the blade where it hangs on the rock shaft. I am assuming the one side is just "sprung" out and needs a little attitude adjustment with a hammer to bring it in alignment again?

You will notice the lift rod in the previous pictures is what I had to work with before getting the new one made. Its from my 100 for when I switch the blade over to a narrow frame and put it on there. What a PIA to have one blade for two tractors! I almost think it would have been cheaper and less stressful to get chains and weight for the 100!!

 

[mpatterson]

This is the "bracket" I was talking about earlier I removed.

 

[mgonitzke]

The bottom hole will give you more lift and get the lift rod further from the frame/side panel.

Also not helping is that yellow subframe is likely from one of the later 'cyclops' models with the taller front axle. It will physically fit the earlier models, but isn't the same, and doesn't work as well.

 

[eford]

Mike I can get some picks and measurements from dad's 1450 on Friday. Also, I can pop it on my 782 sitting over there too if you like and again take pics, it is an actual wide frame blade set up. I have a converted narrow frame I was using but I couldn't beat $25 for this. Harry is absolutely right about bending the bracket, it was a pita.
Getting the 100 set would have been easier, but where's the fun in that!!