• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 01, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

aschumacher

Well-known member
IHCC Supporter
Joined
Aug 23, 2006
Messages
2,912
displayname
Allen Schumacher
WAYNE S,...you did check the two or 3 Faq's in Charlies long list that refer to checking charging problems. A big point, as other places on the tractor, got a good ground to the regulator? It doesn't work with bad/no ground. Matt G (?) had a troubleshooting article on his site if you can find a post and access his place. OK, I stand corrected, dont see anything about charging on Matts site. If you want to visit here it is http://mgonitzke.net16.net/
 
Paul B .... oh ok,your right,I guess I did type the sn#'s backwords , atleast somone is paying attention. Oh well it happens right. lol Anyways what do you think,would you consider that a somwhat low sn# ,I think it was 790 or somthing like that,
 
Jonathan
I would say it is a early 123 and it could be a low number because once 123 production started with # 157490, from that number to the end of the series (#218009) the model 71, 102, 122, and 123 were all using S/N's from that same range of numbers. It all depends on what other models, if any, were being built at time.
 
Don-
We're gonna need some pics of that 102 to know you're not lying to us!
biggrin.gif
 
Jim T, Paul B and others -
On early originals one other subtle difference lies in the front rim stamping of the wheels. Early tractors had raised "domed" area around the bearing hub, where later rims (mid '61onward?) did not. In the morning I might post a couple pictures to depict this.
 
Allen-

I'm pretty sure all grounds are good. It hasn't been that long since I went through this tractor. I'm just experiencing a dire shortage of working v/rs at the moment. I was going to order a dozen or so after I won that lottery last week but my $6 and 3 chances didn't pay off.
 
You had better find a real good V/R soon, seems you you broke the one here !
<font size="-2">Do V/R's really go bad ?? Only thing I could think of is the points on the relays get pitted, oxidized or something.
Did you try that idea of grounding the field to see if the G/G is OK ? </font>
 
Do you guys remember when we used to get this "white stuff"????

249693.jpg


This was just shy of 2 years ago, now tomorrow it's supposed to be 52deg.
1a_scratchhead.gif


OK, rant over. We now bring you back to your regularly scheduled programing....
 
Allen-

It's just a bad year for v/rs. Yesterday I was gassing up a 124 and when I got on it I noticed the ammeter pegging to the right. I checked the voltage at the battery and sure enough it was 17+ volts. I installed another v/r and problem solved. I don't know what is going on. My neighbor toasted his s/g because of a bad v/r overcharging. He doesn't know (or care) to keep an eye on the ammeter. I first put another s/g on it and there were 17 or 18 volts at the battery.

I've read quite a bit lately on how to adjust v/rs and the manual isn't clear on a couple of things. I've also heard all that is usually necessary is cleaning the points. I've tried both with little success. I would like to know if there is a way to test the individual coils. If they are toasted then there's little hope anyway.
 
Let's count our blessings, Art.
happy.gif

Some of those warm temps wafted this way, and more expected tomorrow. It did this last year, too. This might be the second winter I can remember that I was ready for WINTER.
The K341 sits in the cellar, all stripped down except for the exhaust elbow and I think it's going to take a trip to Missouri. When I wrote things down it looked like this:
Sleeve, turn crankshaft, fit piston and connecting rod, send it back and I'll put it back together.
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Frank - who in Missouri are you sending your engine to? I'd like to find someone who can machine/rebuild a Kohler K series engine who has a CLUE about working on these engines - as they are mighty scarce in my neck of the woods.
 
Bill Jamison. The ONLY shop in this part of Iowa that I'd really trust my engine is CarQuest in Marshalltown, Iowa. You ask for E.J. When he is done with your Kohler engine it no longer has the typical Kohler knock that other shops tend to have. Very reasonable and again the ONLY one in this part of Iowa.

Late this afternoon, I got the 147 up and running. Angel took a couple of pictures that I'll post tomorrow. That little fella just needs some TLC in a few places and wow... that hydro is so smooth and the engine after a good carburetor rebuild will purr like a kitten. Fancy and I would go up or down the hills at the same speed and no loss of power or hydro slow down. I promised Angel that I would sell the tractor once it is up and running... only this little fella runs hydro-wise better than the 125 and that 14 hp Kohler doesn't seem to bog down even with the carburetor needing rebuilt. I actually have almost everything to make the 147 a really nice tractor only again... I promised to sell it. Man.. selling this one is truly going to hurt.
 
Marlin, Just change the hoods from the 125/147 and she'll never know. Can't tell 'em all the secrets.
 
Wayne, seems you have a good handle on the situation. Found this about Gens and regulators. Has some info on 2 pole jobs but I doubt if it has more than already known. Other than the Correct Police, is there any reason someone cant find some sort of solid state regulator for these things??
 
At the risk of being Court Marshalled by 'Fearless Leader' I found that there a number of SSR's that could replace old relay types. If you Google 'old auto voltage regulators' you can work your way to Solid State units. A few I saw were in the mid $30 range. JMHO
 
Charlie - nothing wrong with the button. I talked to him via e-mail a while back and he sounds booked-up, but thanks for the reminder.
 
Seconding what Charlie said. David Kirk would be my FIRST choice to rebuild. Shipping or transportation would kill me though.

Tom H. I've thought of that only Angel is one smart gal when it comes to Cub Cadets. She can pick out grill screen differences as to if they are correct or not. The 147 needs a "little more done" to fix it for proper sale. I'm going to try and make a customized grill for the little fella and while I'm at it one for the 125 also.

Off to work so everyone have a wonderful week.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top