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Archive through August 31, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Kentuck-

You're exactly right, I said loosen but meant just from the steering column. I don't want to break any hydro joints right now so the spool valve remained. All I need to do is remove two cotter pins on the ram and the hydraulics would come right out but they haven't been in my way. I'm dealing with the shifter now by cleaning 35+ years of crap off of the bracket and cleaning the tension washers. The hydraulic lift lever was sloppy so I've dealt with that. I'm now mostly waiting for paint to dry. I even shot the two little spacers with some rattle can primer. I really hate rust. I don't want to split this tractor but the trunion cam bracket at the springs is quite sloppy. The slot has been brazed and is in good shape.
 
I had a great day here. I did get the 147 to start and drove her around a little,Then the 149 , I think its the best starting tractor I have. She started right up after 4 months sitting in my Cub shed. I had to push the 62 Original in the shop (no Gas ). in the am I will take the Carb off and give it a good cleaning to see if I can get it to run better.Hauled some wood with my Diesel and power dump trailer,some slick unloading with that lol.Even took some time to take my Nomad for a coffee run.we are suppose to get great dryer weather this fall so I will have a full slate here getting a Cub painted. Later Don T
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Mike P. thanks for asking. The #4 trailer was painted by my nephew as were the #2's, the two 982's and several of my other Cubs. I am very fortunate to have him in the family. He always gives me the "favorite uncle" discount. He is located in southern Indiana about 20 miles west of Louisville, KY. He has restored tractors of various sizes, trucks, jeeps and motorcycles. He has two early model IH pickups, restored.

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i havean oil leak around the plunger for the points. is there a bushing kit or can i just replace the plunger and be ok?
 
How do you adjust the height on the mower deck? Just got a used 1650 and no operator's manual. It was on a farm- so it was cutting fescue very high with the dips in the pasture.
My yard is bermuda- need ~ 0.5- 1.0 inch height. Came with new blades.. hardened CC's. Any suggestions before I put a impact wrench on the bolts. Nothing strange like Left-hand threads? Should they get a good fast blue flame? SOak with Kroil?
Back to the deck- I was going to remove the back wheels- set the height down.. guessing the knob on the side w/cam controls it. Then add the wheels for 0.5 inch gap. Then set the fore/aft using those front pieces to level it.
Michael
 
William B--It is great to have someone in the family who has that terrific talent. It is even better to have someone in the family that likes you enough to give you "the discount". That stuff looks great. The trailers turned out awesome. I can't wait to see your 982 when finished, but what really has me drooling
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is that cool looking Scout. My dad owned one for about 14 years while I was growing up. I wish he wouldn't have sold it and bought an S-10 that is now in the scrap heap. I don't know whatever happened to dad ol' 1966 Scout. What can you tell me about the one in the pics?

Glen--Your Hydro looks great! Do you have any refurbish, restoration, or before after pics posted on here somewhere that I could take a look at? I'm fascinated by this build! Looking good
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Well I picked it up tonight! I finally have "my" first Original. Well it isn't exactly mine. I paid for it but it is actually my sons' tractor. It is rough around the edges but I think I rescued this one from the scrap heap.

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The current (well most recent!)owner (Scott) located it about seven years ago buried in the weeds behind his neighbors house. He asked if the tractor worked but the owner said that he hadn't tried in years. Scott decided to clean the carb and make a few adjustments on it. He was able to get it running and worked out a deal with his neighbor. He has used it for the last seven years around his property as a little work tractor, pulling stuff etc. He just bought a four wheeler and decided to get rid of the old cub.

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His son put it on CL and that is where I saw it. The serial number is 32052 which I take to mean that it was built in June 1962. The engine serial is 595200 with the Spec number being 28542E. I assume that it has the original motor but I don't know where to look up the date codes for the K161 motors. Any help would be appreciated. It runs pretty rough right now. It doesn't smoke at all but seems like the carb could use a good cleaning and adjustment. I have no idea what condition the points and condenser are in either. How hard is it to come by the air filter for that motor and what are the typical prices for one in working shape? The front suspension is really loose and will definitely need some work as will the steering but it is an Original and I'm glad that I/we rescued it. Thank you honey for the good idea!

Here Caleb drives his "new" old tractor around our yard for the first time!

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The PO didn't seem to know much about these things at all and so I don't know how much of the critical maintenance was left undone. Any insights into what should be done, fluids changed, etc before we put much seat time will be much appreciated. Anything that could turn out to be a big problem if not attended to, I definitely want to make sure that I take care of!

We are happy to be part of the CCO club!

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Joshua, congrats on the CCO! Your son looks like hes having a ball and I'm sure thats a reward in of itself, I do have before and after pictures that Im going to post when I get it as close to done as I can for now.

I have a question for you all, I want to make my front wheels appear to be eight lug just like the 1X66/86 internationals, Ive painted hex shaped spots on them, looks ok...but I was wondering if it would destroy my wheels to drill holes in them for actual bolts and nuts to give it that bolt on hub look without upgrading my spindles (I plan to eventually but for now this is my best option, especially since I already have the hardware.) I plan to mount them just inside the spot where the wheel halves are spot welded together, sounds plausible to me since my tires are tubed and I wouldnt be interfering with the welds in the wheel halves, yay or nay? Personally I think it'd give my 21466 that extra "big tractor" look. If I were a genius like Tom Hoffman itd be a true eight lug front, 4x4, and use the keyshaft rear axles and two piece rims like the big guys but for now...I'll settle with this haha.
 
williem best what cub is pulling that #4 trailer looks like a beast thanks
 
Joshua.

How well does that starter work being wired to the front grill
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Glen - You can do it with the bolts. I've cut out the center of slip on wheels before and put bolt on hubs in them.

Lonny - I've been sitting here all night waiting for somebody to ask that .......

Joshua - You've got the optional fenders
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but that hood decal has to go
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It just doesn't look like an Original with that mismatch !

I bet some little feller is having Cub Dreams tonight ... and the boy too
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Lonny - I bet the PO put that on there for front weight since he used it to pull stuff around.
Probably the only heavy thing he had that was free.
 
Some very sharp pictures being posted here. A great way to start the day off. Thanks to ALL posting them.

Wayne S. Go back to your ... Monday, August 29, 2011 - 09:07 am: ... posting about your hydro problems. I noticed when re-reading that you stated that some of the pistons had rust rings on them however you decided to use them. Did you check the inside of the pistons for more rust inside the piston? It doesn't take a very a very big piece of rust to close the tiny hole on the top of the brass slipper. Plus by mixing and trying to use parts from another unit there is a remote possibility that you may have created a "stackup" problem whereas tolerances are now just out of spec on enough pieces through normal wear that too much oil is escaping where it shouldn't be. I'd suggest purchasing a set of gauges and doing some pressure checks.
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Off to work... Everyone have a SAFE and wonderful day.
 
Ken--My first thought when I saw the tractor pics online was, "Who put those decals on there? that just doesn't look right!" I also was trying to figure out what option was on the front. Then when I saw it in person and asked the PO about it, he explained it just as you said. However I didn't mention it right away because I thought it would be interesting to hear peoples comments on it. Who says the CCO's didn't have an electric PTO?
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The rear wheels are gray and maroon. The paint transition lines are near perfect. Either someone really took the care to do that with the CCO rims or else these are off an early MF.

What about that seat?
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When I saw that it had the fenders, that pushed me over the edge to go look at it right there. They are in decent shape too. Just a little massaging and a fresh coat of paint an they will look like new.

Thanks for the comments guys. It is so cool to own one of the early pieces of Cub history.
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Good morning Marlin-

The rust I found was on some of the pistons in the original motor block. I had another pump already apart and the motor block and pistons looked good so I just swapped them out. I also used the motor valve plate that was on the block. I have since just rolled the 1250 aside to get my 1650 running and set up for the garden but I plan to get back on it next week.

I do want to get a set of gauges to test the hydros.
 
Hi I need some help putting a 10HP back together for a model 102. When I took the engine apart I bagged all the parts. I put the connecting rod bolts in a bag with the washers. My problem is that I have three washers in the bag. 2 flat and 1 split lock washer. I cannot tell from looking at the parts diagrams what are the correct washers. I also took pictures but cannot tell from those either. I do not know if I am missing a washer or put an extra one in the bag by mistake.
How many and what type of washers go on the bolts that are used to connect the connecting rod to the crank. They are the capscrew type. thanks
 
Glen, your 21466 looks great! Not to take anything away from Tom H., but I think you might have meant to write Dan Hoefler...

William, nice Cubs and trailers!

Joshua, nice find on the Original. As much as I like that series of decal, they do not look right on an Original (unless perhaps it's a Sundstrand Hydro prototype
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) I figured "front weight" when I saw the SG on the front. I'm thinking MF rims on the back. Kinda like the look of them. The action shots looks like your son if really flying with the wheels spinning.
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John C., WELCOME!
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Michael, here's a link to an Operator's Manual for your 1650. The nuts on the blades should be standard threads, Yes soak them with Kroil or PB Blaster for a while before you try to remove them. An impact wrench should be OK to use.
 
Kraig/Glenn,
"If I were a genius like Tom Hoffman", Gosh I feel prety good right now. ~~~~~~~~~~ Oh, wait a minute, I have been mistaken for Dan Hoefler. Damn, I hate it when that happens. I wish I had 1/8 the talent of Dan.
 
Tom, at least you've been mistaken for Dan. That's more than most of us can even hope for.
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John C., I found this in my archives. It's for a K301 but is likely the same as for a K241.

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