Archive through August 26, 2009
- Thread starter jbliler
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I've heard that Jerry B. could break a crow bar playing in a sand box!
Charlie, I can relate to that, when I was a kid on the farm, Grandpa used to call me Anvil. One day I asked him why he called me that. His reply: "cause you could bust an anvil with a rubber mallet boy!" But, he did always show me how to fix it after I broke it.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Tristan, don’t have a good answer as to what is going on, but I had the same thing happened on a 149. Final result is I lost a rod and crank. If it were mine I would pull the engine and check it out before you have some serious internal damage. What I should have done before I lost an engine.
John, Rich, thanks for the suggestions. I am no expert mechanic but sitting here trying to think how I can get smoke out of the oil fill but no smoke out the exhaust... is it possible something is getting so hot to burn the oil in the crankcase like a rod/crank bearing? Weird thing is the motor seems to run smooth, no noise or vibration (at least no more then before).
Other problem, is my clutch went out on my 1000. I hope this will be an easier fix since the grass really needs mowed! I dont know much about the internals of clutches, and I did looks at the parts diagram in my manual, but not sure what part would most likely be at fault. The clutch does not slip, meaning its always on. I press the pedal all the way down and if I hit the key the starter will start driving the mower ahead.
Let me see if this works (pic):
All the linkages seem working to the point that #10 does move front and back, not very much but I dont know how much travel is normal. What should be my next step? Am I going to have to tear everything down to troubleshoot further? Right now I am checking things out underneath and through the removed tunnel cover. I appreciate any help! Probably to late now but I am leaving next monday for two weeks out of state and my grass is already tall! Might just have to enlist my neighbors help this time in cutting the grass.
Other problem, is my clutch went out on my 1000. I hope this will be an easier fix since the grass really needs mowed! I dont know much about the internals of clutches, and I did looks at the parts diagram in my manual, but not sure what part would most likely be at fault. The clutch does not slip, meaning its always on. I press the pedal all the way down and if I hit the key the starter will start driving the mower ahead.
Let me see if this works (pic):
All the linkages seem working to the point that #10 does move front and back, not very much but I dont know how much travel is normal. What should be my next step? Am I going to have to tear everything down to troubleshoot further? Right now I am checking things out underneath and through the removed tunnel cover. I appreciate any help! Probably to late now but I am leaving next monday for two weeks out of state and my grass is already tall! Might just have to enlist my neighbors help this time in cutting the grass.
jnicklas
Well-known member
Tristan, exactly the way mine did. Was mowing and the smoke came out the dipstick hole and vent behind the coil. Started losing power, shut down and checked the oil level, full to the mark. Started back up and ran fine for about ten minutes and the smoke started again. This time before I got shut down it quit running but I herd the crank free wheel to a stop. Pulled in to the shop, pulled the engine dropped the pan and the rod came out in pieces. The crank had the balance of the rod ground into the journal.
Tristan throw out arm 10 is pulled by the lever 16 through the shaft 11. Make sure the pin that holds 16 to the shaft 14 (the shaft attached to the foot pedal) is not sheard if it won't disengage you prolly don't need a rebuild you prolly need an adjustment. (Nut 12)
Dave, By asking about the trannie, does that mean that you are gonna donate a direct drive setup so I can continue converting the 1100 into a "real" cub?? Although after seeing that slick teledyne conversion I have been eyeing the ditchwitch with a big 4 cylinder wisconsin or maybe its an Onan, with evil intent. The voices keep saying "Drag out the torch, you know you want to!"
Dave, throw out arm (#10) moves back and forth with pedal so I dont think its any problem with linkages or pins. It doesnt move much, maybe 1/4" or so, what is normal? I was thinking maybe adjustment too so I tried cranking in the nut a bunch and no difference. Then I thought no way it should be adjustment since it went from working fine one day to no clutch the next, its got to be more of a failure of some sort.
Charlie your tempting me with your pictures of Grrr! again.
Enough so that I'm seriously thinking making the original in the back of my garage into the same thing, I'll have to think up a different name since you probably have that one patented already.
Could I talk you in to showing the details on the exhaust system and how you did it?
Enough so that I'm seriously thinking making the original in the back of my garage into the same thing, I'll have to think up a different name since you probably have that one patented already.
Could I talk you in to showing the details on the exhaust system and how you did it?
Dave, that is a good question. The electric PTO was gone and a manual lever type clutch put in its place; She is wearing J@*( D%*#@@ wheels on the rear
; and I am not sure if the deck is the one that is supposed to be there. The guy I bought it from musta seen me coming!
Mike, That's A good way to look at it. I reckon that that model doesn't have any collectability, so it makes her a prime candidate for an extreme makeover. I have an old reefer unit Semi trailer that we use for storage out behind the barn, was thinking that I haven't seen anybody put a Thermoking diesel in a cub frame yet,,,,,
I was wondering if anyone knew if the dodge dart rear end is being used in IHCC pullers and what years work. The pretty neighborhood I work in had a few darts abandoned and before I call the Sheriff to have them towed maybe I should whip out the torch first. TIA
Gonna drag the 104 down there soon to clean up and paint. I am thinking of 2 stage paint with self healing clear this time so I can blow thru the woods and not worry about scratches
Gonna drag the 104 down there soon to clean up and paint. I am thinking of 2 stage paint with self healing clear this time so I can blow thru the woods and not worry about scratches
