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Archive through August 21, 2004

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Daniel C,
You can but the 12hp piston pin is about .015"
bigger than the 10hp. Also the rod is a little too long. The piston will stick up out of the cylinder about .060". BTDT. My 100's block had been bored .020" and wouldn't clean up at .030".
I had an NOS 12 hp std piston laying around so I
had the block bored to 3.375". The 12 piston pin wouldn't fit the through the rod. I had to bore the rod to fit. Then when I put the head on,
it wouldn't turn over because the piston was hitting the head. So I had to mill a little bit of a chamber in to the head. So the answer is yes,
it can be done. But unless you have access to a
wrist pin hone and a milling machine, it would not be worth it. Now this was all with a 10 hp
block. I assume that the 10 and 12 blocks have the same deck hieght, but I don't know for sure.

(Message edited by tmarkle on August 22, 2004)
 
Uh oh; my 44" deck on my 129 is dying a slow death. The sheet metal is rottin away. One of the rear wheels has no metal to attach to. The deck won't stay on. The rear latch pins don't stick into the subframe far enough not to pop out while I'm mowing. I can't figure out how THAT happened. They always held before now!
 
Yes Daniel; I filed the rod cap on my 12 hp Kohler over six years ago and it's still running strong. The old girls IS due a rebuild about now though.
 
I was due to get a belly blade the next time Dan made a batch, but I lost touch with him with all my moving and e-mail changes. Dang! I wonder if there wasn't enough interest for him to make another batch? maybe THAT'S why I never heard from him again! Sure would like one of those belly blades for the road out front: we all have to maintain it because it's not county maintained. My CC "120" with a belly blade would be a good complement to the neighbors' tractors with box blades that are presently handling the job!
 
I read about the timing and spark and replacing everything but no one mentioned to replace the spark plug. I have gotten new plugs out of the box that were bad. If I am having a spark problem I try to replace the plug with one out of a running engine.
 
David, a Toyota field tech told me something that I will never forget. "There's only one thing that will make a backfire with the engine turning. Lighting the fire with a valve open."
Set your points at .020". That should get you close enough to get it running. Is the wire coming from the points also on the - side of the coil? I would also try a new condenser.
 
Help - Wife is about to sell tractor! It seems my sediment bowl assembly is leeking just enough gas to make the garage reek of gas. I removed the sediment bowl and just trying to clean it up and tighten it up to stop leakage. The connection to the gas tank is loose. How do I tighten that. It seems if I tighten that then the outlet will not be in position to connect to the gas line. Is there a sealant that I can use to assure the connections will not leak like liquid gasket or teflon tape that will work in contact with gas?
 
Been too busy, working on my cco ,to keep track of the news,have some great old cub cadets and a super dealer. Also,have a few problems with the cco, I'd rather work in the garage than work on the computer. Take Care, Ken
 
David S.

I used teflon tape on my 100 but it still leaks. But that may not be why it is leaking. If it's really loose you should be able to turn it one full turn to tighten it up.
 
Steve B, Dave K,

I had a few seconds today so I mocked up these pictures for you.

21064.jpg


21065.jpg
 
Thanks Tim, I figured it would probably work, but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.
 
Tim-
I bet it turns over real good like that!
;-P

David S-
Before you curse the fuel bowl, make sure you check the bottom of the tank real well. Many times the female fitting on the bottom of the tank seperates from the tank itself. Gas will leak from that fitting and run down the fuel bowl, making it seem like the fuel bowl is leaking. That said, they're not the easiest thing to get leak-free....
 
David S.---- As Art started check the Square piece that your fuel drains out of. Many of them will start to leak at some time. The vibration is hard on them. Best cure so far is to remove tank and TRIPLE CLEAN WITH GOOD SOAP AND WATER. Then solder or braze this square pad on to the tank metal. I have had the best luck with brazing rod and a small torch. ONCE AGAIN, GAS FUMES WOULD BE VERY BAD.
 
Aw, lighten-up a little, Jerry- them gas-fumes are only around for a moment! :-}

Todd M... I've read techniques for combating the compression-height issue... one of the suggestion was to offset-rebore the piston, rod, or big-end to compensate for PART of the additional compression-height, but that's kinda pointless when a replacement rod and slug are comparatively less-expensive than shop charges. I know offset-boring some parts is done to increase CR, and Kohlers supposedly respond okay to what... 0.050" of additional compression height or so...
 
Hey guys. How much front to back play is supposed to be in the front axle on my 1200? It moves back and forth quite a bit and this causes alot of slack in the steering. Thanks, Paul
 

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