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Archive through August 21, 2004

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dkamp

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
Messages
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Dave Kamp
Aw, cut Digger some slack... he's so poor he can't afford to pay attention :-}

If he wasn't livin' on a fixed (broken) income, he'd buy gas with higher than 80 Octane, and he wouldn't hafta run rich-idle.

Of course, runnin' it rich on idle keeps enough gas in that cylinder to wash all the oil out'a the spark-plug gap! :-}

(BTW... it's officially Pick-On-Charlie day!)
 
How about a good way to extend the exhaust stack on a 882 diesel, same muffler as the IH built 782d. I would like it to go up a foot and half or so and turn out like the Kubota tractors have that use a stack. Any ideas? Thanks Mike
 
ROTFLMAO!!!
Keep it up Art, yer days comin buddy!!!!! snicker

And Dave,
Well what can I say, no guts no glory.



(Message edited by cproctor on August 21, 2004)
 
Mike, you gotta watch how high you get those stacks. The exhaust manifold will crack if you get it out too far.

BTW, the 782D is not an IH built tractor. It's badged IH, but built by MTD.
 
Yeah, I know, I dont want to go to high, just enough to get the smoke past my face. I did know mtd had thier fingers into the 782d as well, the 782d's came before IH sold off the cub cadet line according to everything I have read, was IH and MTD working together on certain things like the 782d's? Cheers MIke
 
Question:
Does the Voltage regulator besides battery control have a big roll in the electrical circuit to the motor, ignition etc?
Gordon
 
Mike, IH sold Cub Cadet off seceral years before the 782D. Want me to measure my stack for ya??
21058.jpg
 
Gordon, a fully charged battery has a big part in the ignition circuit, so yes. On the starter/gen models, there is a circuit built in the stop charging while cranking so it is easier to start.
 
Thats ok, I found some electrical conduit that sleave fits real snug over the muffler pipe outlet, bought one of the premade 90' elbows and cut it to the turnout style that I wanted. Looks real nice. Cant wait till I get a 3pt hitch located so I can work her like that. Cheers Mike
 
Anyone know how I could find out what size center spindle and bering I need for a 42 inch mower deck on a 102 Cub ?? and where the best place to get replaceparts from ??
 
Henry,

CEP-2 will do wonders for figuring out parts. Binder books can get you one. Well worth the investment if you continue to work on your tractor attachments.

As for your deck, which kind of 42 inch deck. Cast end or stamped?? The sponsors are great for getting parts from. I use them a lot and have never been let down.
 
A question for the pro's - I just finished putting my 70 together although it won't start, is was bored over to fit new piston and rings, it is getting fuel, there is spark and spark at the points, the only thing it will do is "pop" every so often when I turn it over? Any ideas, I was hoping to cut grass tonight with it, but I'm not so sure now. Thanks for the help.
 
Hi David!

It takes x things to make a reciprocating piston engine run:

Fuel
Air
Compression
Source of ignition
Proper timing of all events.

You've obviously got compression and spark. If it's popping, I'll assume that you've got fuel and air coming INTO the combustion chamber. From there, it all comes down to timing.

If you rebuilt the engine properly, I'll assume that your valve-lash settings are correct, and that your camshaft timing mark was installed in proper synch with crankshaft. I don't remember wether your 70 used the Automatic Compression Release feature or the Centrifugal Spark Advance, but these devices MUST be right in order for it to kick-off well.

Ignition timing: throw away everything you know about setting point gap, and use a continuity-tester and the flywheel marks to set the initial timing... OR, if you're comfortable twiddling, you can open or close the point gap setting a tad and see if it'll fire-and-go, after which you'll need to adjust point gap to make it run 'right'.

Oh... and just because you've got spark at the plug when it's OUT of the cylinder (in free air) doesn't mean you'll have proper spark when it's IN the cylinder and under compression pressure. Takes much more electron-whomp to jump that little gap when there's compression. Re-check your plug wire, and don't be afraid to swap out the coil, condenser, or points to eliminate possible points-of-problem. Realize that a bad condenser can break an otherwise fine ignition system, and just a little oil or crud on the points can cause marginal success. make sure your grounds are all good, too!

Ask yourself- Was the engine running okay when you took it down for a rebuild? If so, the ignition and carbeuration should've been fine... but the carb might've been re-adjusted for a poor-running engine...

DK :)
 
Dave-

I am not sure the engine ran, it was given to me "as is" The points, condensor, coil, plug wire, and regulator all all new as is the wiring harness. I think you may be on to something with regard to the timing settings? The friend that took it apart for me is not an engine builder as much as he is a jack of all trades. I spent the last hour adjusting the point gap, remind me of something should the points open when its hard to turn the crank or should they be closing at this time? Mine are closing at the most difficult time to turn the engine over??? Thanks
 
David D.
I don't suppose you or the "friend" that took your engine apart and put it together had the aid of the appropriate Kohler manual did ya?
 
Its been a long time since I've posted on here, because of college and work. Getting closer to having all of the narrow frame models. Just need one more.

I've recently been working on a 12hp engine and a 10hp motor. The 12hp runs without any smoke, but the rod knocks some. The 10hp runs but smokes a lot. I was just wondering if I could put the 10hp crankshaft and rod in the 12hp. Using the 12hp piston.

I recently heard about people taking the rod out of one that knocks and filing some off until it fits the crankshaft like it should. I guess if you filed too much off, you could make some shims. Has anyone tried this and had success?
 
Digger - You're right no Manual

Travis - The condenser is on the - side

any more ideas?? before I convert this 70 to a 100!!
 
Hello- This is my first post but have enjoyed following this forum for years. I just purchased an IH built 582. I am not familiar with this model. I tried to run her this morning. Turns over good and pumps plenty of fuel but no spark. I start to investigate and find a wire coming out of the point/condenser box that is not attached to anything. Trouble is I can't see any obvious place to put it. Any thoughts?
 
David D,
Did you bring the piston up to TDC and set the points to .018 to .020?
Do you have the right voltage to the coil?
Did you Ohm the coil to make sure it was good?
If all else fails, check the sponsors above and as someone here says, BTFM's.
21061.gif
 

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