Archive through August 21, 2004

[dhuisjen]

I just looked at Roland Bedell's Red and Black 782.

Question: Does this model and color have any additional value as a collectors item?? I know that they did not make too many red/black ones and I have kept mine since it may keep its value because of this?

On the other hand, I heard that they quit the red/black because it didn't sell. They then went back to the original colors?? I should think that any Farmall enthusiast would really like this color scheme??

Any ideas/comments will be appreciated.

Regards,

Don Huisjen

 

[rmull]

Mark R. - Head to your Cub Cadet dealer or one of your friendly sponsors.

They have the Operators manual, the '82 series parts manual has the breakdown of the 782D & the IH Blue Ribbon Service Manual is GSS-1509 (Mine is July 1984)

If you use winter blend #2, (sold where it gets cold), and you run your tractor often enough, keep the heater plugged in, proper fluids (Rotella T, Hytran, & 50/50 Antifreeze) with glow plugs working properly, you shouldn't have many problems. But don't sit it outside and expect it to fire off like a 7hp Kohler, cause it won't.

 

[digger]

Mike L,
There's nothing goofy, here's what was just posted on the Powerseller board.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

***Bid History Page Enhancements***
When a member places a bid on an item, their bid amount will be displayed on the Bid History page. If a bid is retracted, information about the retraction will be shown underneath the current bids on the Bid History page.
-The current high bidder’s bid information will be highlighted in yellow to make it easier to see.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[rmull]

The majority were red and black. Only IH dealers could get the red & black '82 series.

The yellow and white 782s were made available to IH Dealers and Cub Cadet dealers.

Sounds like somebody wants to sell you a "RARE" red & black 782...which was probably the most highly produced model of the '82 series. Make sure they include the chrome IH hub caps.

 

[farmall gray]

The OEM kohler wing nut has a rubber gasket attached to it to seal it against air leakage
and I think it also helps keep it from coming loose.

 

[dkamp]

Hi All!

I see some unanswered questions on the forum, so here goes:

Eric Deirth:
That wire coming out of the point-condenser box... if connected to the points (inside) goes to the - post of the ignition coil. If that wire's not hooked up, you'll get no spark...

Jim M....
Assymetrical turning radius is as Kraig mentioned, but note- narrow-frames have a little design-based characteristic... the steering arm is mounted to the left-side knuckle with a spi-rol pin (a multi-turn roll pin). It's not unusual for that to loosen up, and cause steering slop. Matter of fact, it's unusual to find one that's TIGHT after 20 years of faithful daily service (duhp!). Anyway, you'll see narrow frames that've been bolted, pinned, riveted, welded, drilled, tapped, screwed, and painted with ketchup... all in order to solve that bugger... and it obviously just wasn't the finest hour for mechanical design. Following models of Wide-Frames used a different axle and knuckle-assembly that did away with that particular joint and it's characteristic, but yours is probably sloppy, and the steering-box is probably a tad sloppy after same service-period. If the knuckle rotates against the arm, try any of the above methods to snug-it-up (so the arm doesn't spin on the knuckle-pin). Also check your axle bushings- you shouldn't be able to make the axle 'swing' right-and-left (like a little-red wagon steers)... it should only pivot up and down. If it swings, check to see if the rear axle-pivot bushing has broken loose from the frame... that happens, and the axle starts swingin' around, goofin' up the steering geometry. If all these check out, and your steering radius still stinks, then take off the steering arm, weld the drag-link's hole shut, and re-drill it about half the drag-link's bolt-diameter CLOSER to the knuckle... this will decrease the link's arc, and increase steering angle to about maximum lock.

Paul B- your 1200 falls in the same category as the answer above, with exception of the knuckle- your wide-frame knuckle is all one-piece, so you won't have that slop. Your axle's pivot bushing might be broken out (or in half, or just gone). It shouldn't move in any plane other'n up-and-down on the pivot. Jack up the front end and wiggle stuff around, and see what's sloppin', and why. If the bushing is broken off, it's not a big deal to make a new one (steel) in a lathe (put in a shoulder) and weld it in place (using the axle as an alignment guide) with a MIG. Amazing how much it cleans up the steering-slop. Oh- the weld-hole-and-re-drill offset trick... works great on newer Wide-Frames, too... did that to my 109, and it really turns tight.

 

[sblunier]

Dave Kamp,

In all of the Cubs I have worked on (PLENTY), I have only seen one rear bushing crack out of it's recess in the front cross member.....yet nearly every one of the tractors had sloppy steering.

Fore/aft movement in the front axle is due to a combination of two things, wear in the axle/bushings and wear on the pin. This is compounded by the fact that when the cross member spreads to accept the axle, tiny tolerances turn into big movements at the kingpins.

IH fixed this problem with the 82 series Cubs by installing 3/4" bolts with slotted nuts as pivot pins. These bolts/pins allowed the axle to be pinched snuggly in the cross member......no axle slop.

3/4" bolts can be added to wide and narrow frame tractors provided that the bolt heads and slotted nuts are cut to aprox. 1/2 their original thickness.

BTW, the offset hole in the left spindle is a good idea, I might have to try it.

(Message edited by sblunier on August 23, 2004)

 

[sblunier]

Bryan,

Bummer on the AC.....unfortunately you get to join Art's "I lost my left nut on the 1450" club.

(I prefer the look of that big K341 can anyway!!!!

)

 

[kdunham]

All this diesel talk is interesting me. What really helped mine start is a gear reduction starter to wheel it over fast. Ya gotta have everything working properly to get one of the diesels to start in the cold,otherwise it'll be a real pain to own. I also use Rotella year round.

Steve B.- Of all the tractors I've "worked on"(

) I've only run across one,just last week that was a 129 with the rear axle pin bushing GONE. Kinda odd I thought,I'd never seen it before. Talk about some steering slop!

 

[aaytay]

Steve-
Yea, but he doesn't have anyone here to point out that there's issues with his maintenance abilities like I did!

Good times...

(Message edited by aaytay on August 23, 2004)

 

[mtoney]

Kevin, how difficult was it to install the gear reduction starter in yours? I am planing it as an upgrade when money permits or the one on it now fails. I am used to getting cold sleepy diesels started in the winter so its not a big deal to me. I have found by adding the additive even to the winterized #2 that with the bump up in cetane rating helps cold starts and you know that the fuel is good down to a certain temp rather than go what by what the fuel jockey tells you. I think we will see more diesels in garden tractors in the future as emissions get tighter. Cheers Mike

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - On the pitman arm on My 72 I just drilled a second hole about 3/4" in center-to-center from the factory hole and the 72 will turn the front wheels lock-to-lock both ways. I think I did that in about 1982..... My yard at My first house was pretty small and I needed a really tight turning radius both ways. Steering brakes like on a 982 would have helped too. ;-)

 

[bmcmeen]

Art -

I've just been enlightened on my "maintenance abilities"

Thankfully, though, not by the original finger-waver

 

[jhangartner]

Can anyone post a photo of the Quietline engine mount reinforcement upgrade? I got my rebuilt K341 back the other day and I am almost ready to put it in. Thanks Jason

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

I have always been a little hesitent to re-drill that hole because of the increased steering effort......no big deal on a 72 with 4.80 rubber, but a much bigger deal on a 149/169 with 6.50 rubber. The extra "scrub" makes turning a little more of an "armstrong" effort.

I will probably try it when I put the 1" spindles on the 149 later this fall.

 

[rmull]

On the gear reduction starter you about have to pull the motor from the carriage, and the carriage needs notched to clear the + terminal on the starter motor.

I had the motor out of the tractor on the 782D working on power steering, so it wasn't a big deal when we did it.

 

[digger]

Jason,

 

[dfrisk]

Steve - Does take a little more effort to steer for sure..... I've had to rebuild the steering gearbox on the 72 three times, but not sure the modification was the whole reason.... Tractor did have a 36" snow blower mounted on it for probably 10 winters. A whole brand new steering gearbox that's 3-4 yrs old is still hanging on the wall waiting to be installed! Wyatt & Ken's Super-Steer is the best way to correct ALL the problems. Get's the 1" spindles, splined steering arms that also clamp, replacable greasable bronze bushings in the spindle bores, and the frt axle is a lot beefier than the older frt axles. I know what Your saying about the scrub radius.... My 129 steers like a PIG. 982 steers better with 125# of MWSC weights on the front!

 

[bmcmeen]

Question on muffler clamps...

Looking at the air box on the 1450, it's obvious by the notch that it was originally designed for a single bolt muffler clamp (such as the ones on the "diagonal" mufflers that wrap all the way around the inlet) rather than the U-bolt muffler clamp that the parts book shows.

Where can one find such a clamp? Can't seem to find one at mcmaster.com, perhaps I'm not using the right search criteria. I suppose while my local dealer isn't looking I can pocket a clamp or two...

 

[aaytay]

Bryan-
Try clicking on one of the pretty boxes above. Certainly one of our sponsors can help you!