Digger & Don, Thanks for the advice on the paint for my 75 1450. The local cub dealer had cans of the white and yellow in stock. I sandblasted and sanded both side engine covers but can't get the last layers of stickers off. They have been baked on for 30+ years. Any ideas? Acetone? Also, do you have any advice regarding the clutch problem (posted on 8/10) I'm having with my 1200. I priced 3/4 of the parts on the sponsors website above for a total rebuild and it came close to $400. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what part(s) it would most likely be? $400 is a bit hard on my financial situation right now.
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Archive through August 14, 2007
- Thread starter bcorn
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Curious, I am thinking of entering some pulling comps next spring, once a month. Best part the track is less than a mile from my home. Now for the question, does anyone know what my 128 weighs less implements with fluid filled rear tires and oem rear wheel weights?
pleffelman
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2007
- Messages
- 25
- displayname
- Paul Leffelman
Charlie the cab is all enclosed and is not a windbreaker, I will compare the brackets to what I have to the pictures you have, this will be a big help. I will have to think about the blower pulley switching, plenty time for that. Paul
Christian 3m makes stuff for removing decals and decal adhesives, the stuff is awsome. It states for proffesional use only on the can and they arent kidding. I made the mistake of using it in the shop all closed up. KI had a very colorful worry free afternoon. It's not cheap and only comes in quarts but if you do any amount of decal work it's worth it.
Christian K,
Did you try using a heat gun? Sometimes a hair dryer will produce enough heat to soften them, then just use a scraper to peel them off. I usually just heat a small section on the end with my left hand, scrape with my right, heat, repeat, etc. Watch that you don't slip and gouge the metal. Yes, you can fill in the scratches with primer/filler, but if you don't put in any gouges, you don't have to fill them. Adhesive can then be removed with solvent.
Did you try using a heat gun? Sometimes a hair dryer will produce enough heat to soften them, then just use a scraper to peel them off. I usually just heat a small section on the end with my left hand, scrape with my right, heat, repeat, etc. Watch that you don't slip and gouge the metal. Yes, you can fill in the scratches with primer/filler, but if you don't put in any gouges, you don't have to fill them. Adhesive can then be removed with solvent.
Dennis, you may have good luck using the impact wrench, but I've seen them break off bolts and on something that hasn't been off in 39 years I wouldn't trust the impact wrench on something that old, because I've broken a few bolts myself using my hands, I just like to lower the risk of it happening.
Christian: Bruce is correct, that is how I did my 1000. Depending how much work you want to do and the finish job you are looking for. I sprayed eveything with primer/filler then I wet sanded everything down with 800 grit.
Now your 1200 clutch, have you checked the strength of your springs (loading, teasing, release) they could be worn out causing the problem that you are describing.
Pops
Now your 1200 clutch, have you checked the strength of your springs (loading, teasing, release) they could be worn out causing the problem that you are describing.
Pops
I'll chime in here on the HP issue: From my experience, especially when dealing with tractors, the issue of pulling is more an issue of traction (or lack of it) than HP. That applies not only to small cubbies but also to larger tractors. My father and I have a JD 2040 (about a 38 hp diesel) and many times I have put it in a pulling situation, (such as working a grader blade, and maybe hang the blade on something) only to have the tractor immediately start spinning. This is with a very low, almost idle, engine RPM. Increasing the RPM (HP) will not pull the blade but will only make the wheels spin faster. Power is definitely not the problem in this situation. Having said that, I agree on the mowing side of the debate. More HP means better and faster mowing. I learned that lesson as, earlier this summer, I bought a zero turn Grasshopper with a 20 hp twin cylinder Kohler. Man, that thing will cut some grass! I have 4 cubs and an old Craftsman, and the Grasshopper will mow nearly twice as fast as all of them. Unbelievable how well that thing cuts. The 20 hp spins the blades so much faster, enabling you to GO faster greatly reducing mowing time.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Christian K.-
Do you have a Cub Cadet dealer anywhere near you? I'm not sure I see what would bring that cost anywhere near $400. A new friction disc, teaser spring, main spring, throwout bearing, and spirol pins should run you roughly $125. Whatever you do, don't EVER buy your spirol pins from CC, they're $3 apiece and you need several. Order a package of them from McMaster-Carr you'll get 25 at about $0.60 apiece,and be set for life. Also if your driveshaft has excessive wear, you can get a $10 piece of steel and make a new one. Hopefully you know someone that has access to a lathe that can true up your pressure plates. Then replace the rear rag joint and you have maybe $175 tops in it.
Jim T.-
The zero turn mows faster than your cubs because it's a zero turn and probably has a huge deck, there's really no comparison there. If you have lots of trees, the time difference is really noticeable.
Do you have a Cub Cadet dealer anywhere near you? I'm not sure I see what would bring that cost anywhere near $400. A new friction disc, teaser spring, main spring, throwout bearing, and spirol pins should run you roughly $125. Whatever you do, don't EVER buy your spirol pins from CC, they're $3 apiece and you need several. Order a package of them from McMaster-Carr you'll get 25 at about $0.60 apiece,and be set for life. Also if your driveshaft has excessive wear, you can get a $10 piece of steel and make a new one. Hopefully you know someone that has access to a lathe that can true up your pressure plates. Then replace the rear rag joint and you have maybe $175 tops in it.
Jim T.-
The zero turn mows faster than your cubs because it's a zero turn and probably has a huge deck, there's really no comparison there. If you have lots of trees, the time difference is really noticeable.
Matt,
My Grasshopper is a 120 (small frame), and has a 48" deck, so it's not huge at all. I mow about 3 acres. Half has some trees but very little grass, so it doesn't get cut but every now and then. The other half is what we cut every week and is basically open area with practically no trees, just grass. The Grasshopper cut our mowing time almost in half in this open area. The zero turn aspect is basically no advantage in this area as it is mostly "straight line" mowing. My point being that the extra HP is the advantage, not the zero turn.
My Grasshopper is a 120 (small frame), and has a 48" deck, so it's not huge at all. I mow about 3 acres. Half has some trees but very little grass, so it doesn't get cut but every now and then. The other half is what we cut every week and is basically open area with practically no trees, just grass. The Grasshopper cut our mowing time almost in half in this open area. The zero turn aspect is basically no advantage in this area as it is mostly "straight line" mowing. My point being that the extra HP is the advantage, not the zero turn.
Thomas B.
Is there something wrong with buying from OUR sponsors?
They have them you know.
Is there something wrong with buying from OUR sponsors?
They have them you know.
I am rebuilding a 14HP K321. What internal parts should I replace? This is an old 147 engine so it doesn't have balance gears. Should I replace the crank bearings? What about the cam and the cam bearings? Valve lifters? I know I could just look at them but I would like to replace the items that are prone to fail or wear out.
Digger you're right! I must have bumped my head. Sometimes I just need recalibrated. Our sponsors are great. They have provided everything I've been looking for. Don't need that part # after all. While I'm at it,my electric lift on my "new" 147 needs repaired. The PO has the plug to it disconnected and I see a white wire disconnected near the battery that appears to come from the lift switch. I am not at all familiar with this lift except I have heard to not take off the end of the motor. Any suggestions?
Ken,
I will not be replacing everything. I am re-boring the block, so I am keeping that. I will be reusing the crankshaft. However, what about the cam? etc. If I was going to replace everything I would just buy a new one already assembled.
I will not be replacing everything. I am re-boring the block, so I am keeping that. I will be reusing the crankshaft. However, what about the cam? etc. If I was going to replace everything I would just buy a new one already assembled.
TERRY B. - My K321 came from a 147 and it had balance gears. Parts to replace are piston & rings if You bore the cylinder or just replace the rings if You don't bore the cylinder. And replace the connecting rod and wrist pin keepers. Have Your machine shop measure Your rod journal to see if it needs to be ground .010" undersize before You buy Your connecting rod. The ball bearings that hold the crankshaft are 100+% bullet-proof. Also ALL seals & gaskets should be replaced. The cam & lifters should be fine if they have no unusual wear patterns on them. But plan on replacing the exhaust valve. I've replaced the exh. valve in EVERY Kohler I've rebuilt. Also I've never had a problem with worn valve guides in any Kohler. You should have the valve seats in the block reground. Also You should put new ignition points, condensor, spark plug, probably a plug wire, and paint all the sheetmetal cooling shrouds. There's other stuff You can do, like replace the pushrod for the points, rebuild the carb, replace the throttle shaft & carb. housing bushing for the throttle shaft....It all depends on what condition the parts You have to work with are in. Use plenty of good assembly lube when putting the engine back together also. I've used Federal-Mogul and Lubri-Plate white assembly lube grease with success. Cover everything that moves.
