This might be helpful, it's the "spindle belt" that you're looking for.
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Archive through August 14, 2006
- Thread starter bmcmeen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Hey,
Someone suggested that I weld gussets on the non wheel side of the spindles I built.
I did some research on how much force it would take to bend the new spindles. Here is the equation I found.
F=(KLSt^2)/W
K=bend constant
L=length of bend (2"x3/8" steel was used)
S=tensile strength of steel
t=thickness of flat steel (2"x3/8" steel was used)
W=width of bend (6" from the bend point to the end of spindle axle)
F=(1 x 2 x 55000 x (.375^2))/6
F=2578
So, without welding the back of the spindle to the nut, the spindle could stand 2500 lbs on the outside of the spindle. Keeping in mind that pressure would have to be on the outer most edge of the wheel. The weld adds roughly 3437 lbs of strength to the spindle at the 1.5" mark. Over 6 inches this adds 1000 lbs of strength.
So to summarize. The spindles should be able to handle 3500 lbs of downward force at the outer edge of the wheel.
Someone suggested that I weld gussets on the non wheel side of the spindles I built.
I did some research on how much force it would take to bend the new spindles. Here is the equation I found.
F=(KLSt^2)/W
K=bend constant
L=length of bend (2"x3/8" steel was used)
S=tensile strength of steel
t=thickness of flat steel (2"x3/8" steel was used)
W=width of bend (6" from the bend point to the end of spindle axle)
F=(1 x 2 x 55000 x (.375^2))/6
F=2578
So, without welding the back of the spindle to the nut, the spindle could stand 2500 lbs on the outside of the spindle. Keeping in mind that pressure would have to be on the outer most edge of the wheel. The weld adds roughly 3437 lbs of strength to the spindle at the 1.5" mark. Over 6 inches this adds 1000 lbs of strength.
So to summarize. The spindles should be able to handle 3500 lbs of downward force at the outer edge of the wheel.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
David Kirk enjoyed you detailed explantion of your latest project. Although a complete novice I found it easy to follow most of it. I still have trbl understanding "port and polish" is it making sure the intake and exhaust ports are the same diameter all the way along their length, and then polishing the walls?
Been a while since I've been here but my last post about my 149 dealt with the hydraulic lift leeaking off between mowings. Well I've notice that the leak off is much worse than I thougt. When I pull the lever to raise, I sometimes have to wait several seconds before the deck raises. And the decks slowly drops over the next several minutes.
Is there a way to determine if this is the control valve or the lift cylinder?
Could it be low on hydro fluid?
And without starting up "oil wars" what oil should I use to top off the hydro since I don't know what is in it already? Should I drain and replace?
Is there a way to determine if this is the control valve or the lift cylinder?
Could it be low on hydro fluid?
And without starting up "oil wars" what oil should I use to top off the hydro since I don't know what is in it already? Should I drain and replace?
James M,
Porting and polishing refers to smoothing the intake and exhaust passages in the head and around the valves. In some cases this includes increasing the bore of the exhaust and intake ports. The reason for all of this work is to improve air flow in and out of the cylinder through the head. Even mild porting and polishing on a stock head can result in significant performance improvements.
Porting and polishing refers to smoothing the intake and exhaust passages in the head and around the valves. In some cases this includes increasing the bore of the exhaust and intake ports. The reason for all of this work is to improve air flow in and out of the cylinder through the head. Even mild porting and polishing on a stock head can result in significant performance improvements.
Chuck J,
Head over here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html and check things out a little and see what ya come up with.
Head over here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html and check things out a little and see what ya come up with.
Tom,
You not gonna know how to set a Cub if you continue messin with that OT stuff!
You not gonna know how to set a Cub if you continue messin with that OT stuff!
I bought an IH tiller 1A about a year ago and am just now trying to use it on my 106.
I mounted to the tractor - The tiller lift has a pair of chains coming up to a bolt that required me to turn my lift rod 90 degrees (is this stock?).
I used my mower mule drive and when I lowered the tiller the mower deck frame rested on the tiller drive belt (does the tiller require a special pulley setup?)
When I engaged the tiller with any load it would throw the belt.
Any help would be appreciated - I am in VT at my camp and I don't have access to my Cadet manuals
Dan Kelley
I mounted to the tractor - The tiller lift has a pair of chains coming up to a bolt that required me to turn my lift rod 90 degrees (is this stock?).
I used my mower mule drive and when I lowered the tiller the mower deck frame rested on the tiller drive belt (does the tiller require a special pulley setup?)
When I engaged the tiller with any load it would throw the belt.
Any help would be appreciated - I am in VT at my camp and I don't have access to my Cadet manuals
Dan Kelley
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dan,
Yes, you turn the top link and use the chains.
Remove the deck subframe and only use the front mule drive portion. Removal of the 1/2" rod on the bottom of the mule drive and the 2 lift eyes should allow the hanger to come off of the mule drive and fix the interference problem.
Finally, remove the spring from the mule drive tensioner and replace it with an eye bolt so that the tiller belt can be tightened without the spring. Tiller belts need to be fairly tight and the spring does not allow for this.
Yes, you turn the top link and use the chains.
Remove the deck subframe and only use the front mule drive portion. Removal of the 1/2" rod on the bottom of the mule drive and the 2 lift eyes should allow the hanger to come off of the mule drive and fix the interference problem.
Finally, remove the spring from the mule drive tensioner and replace it with an eye bolt so that the tiller belt can be tightened without the spring. Tiller belts need to be fairly tight and the spring does not allow for this.
Dan: Here are some views of a model #2 tiller hooked up on my 1450.
Notice, as Steve pointed out, you have to take the mower deck lift carriage off, otherwise as you have found out, it rubs the long belt.
Here is what the tiller mounting brackets and depth adjustment looks like.
Your 1A will mount up the same way as the #2.
Notice, as Steve pointed out, you have to take the mower deck lift carriage off, otherwise as you have found out, it rubs the long belt.
Here is what the tiller mounting brackets and depth adjustment looks like.
Your 1A will mount up the same way as the #2.
TOM H. - There's a construction co. around Madison (Hamburg) that has 2 or 3 rigs similar to that big green thing You posted a picture of..... Guess who helped design the package that transformed that beast from AG work to construction work?.... and No, it wasn't Me....I really like those tires.... and that steel cable to pull it out with when it gets into soft ground....
John G, those prices are from 1968.
