-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through August 14, 2006
- Thread starter bmcmeen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Here's how it works on the 71, 1x2/3 and 72, 1x4/5 series and I assume the 70/100 are the same.
Here's how it works on the 1x6/7 series the 73 is the same as for the 71, 1x2/3 and 72, 1x4/5.
The 86, 1x8/9 series (wide frame) manual does not describe this procedure but I would assume it is the same as for the 1x6/7.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
John G. -
I'm not sure what you're misunderstanding. You were questioning belt installing position of the PTO, insinuating that it's a limitation of narrow frame design.
To get a belt on a 1x8/1x9 PTO, one needs to push the PTO lever forward, undo the QA cotter pin, detach the rod and move it even further forward. Sounds about the same to me...
I'm not sure what you're misunderstanding. You were questioning belt installing position of the PTO, insinuating that it's a limitation of narrow frame design.
To get a belt on a 1x8/1x9 PTO, one needs to push the PTO lever forward, undo the QA cotter pin, detach the rod and move it even further forward. Sounds about the same to me...
Anthony, John might be onto something so to check your PTO to make sure the engagement lever is set properly here's the adjustment info:
I should have included this in the last post.
Several years ago I lost a close friend to cancer. George was an IH Cub Cadet owner, having inhereted his dad's 107 who originally purchased the tractor new. After George's death, the family gave me this very nice tractor. Being a one-family owned machine, it was maintained well and always garage kept. Everything seemed to work properly except the engine...there was some blue smoke in the exhaust and out the breather vent and it just lacked power. Rotating by hand indicated that the compression was down significantly. Investigation revealed that the flywheel grass screen was packed up solid, blocking cooling air, and thus causing the engine to overheat. I'm not sure how long the engine had been run like this, I'm guessing at least a year. Thus, it seemed time to freshen this engine up such that the tractor could be returned to full performance.
After removing the engine and beginning disassembly, I found the combustion chamber to be oil-washed and some large hard-carbon blobs on the head. This could have partially explained the knock heard when the engine ran.
After removing the engine and beginning disassembly, I found the combustion chamber to be oil-washed and some large hard-carbon blobs on the head. This could have partially explained the knock heard when the engine ran.
mmiller
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Michael A. Miller
Hi Guys,
On the subject of PTO's, does this lever setup look like what you would expect on an Original #50479? I've seen another style control lever in photos of originals and wondered if this one was appropriate or if it had possibly been added by the PO. Also, was the PTO standard or optional on later Originals? My Original #4861 has the mule drive instead. Thanks!
On the subject of PTO's, does this lever setup look like what you would expect on an Original #50479? I've seen another style control lever in photos of originals and wondered if this one was appropriate or if it had possibly been added by the PO. Also, was the PTO standard or optional on later Originals? My Original #4861 has the mule drive instead. Thanks!
The piston showed signs of the overheating - rings had lost tension, varnish on skirt, and top land was shaved by carbon at the top of the bore. Cylinder walls were glazed with no sign of cross-hatch.
After cleanup, I couldn't resist the urge to port and polish. Here is the block deck with light relief work around the valves.
All casting goobers were cleaned out of the ports, and sharp edges radiused. Here's what the inlet port now looks like.
The block was then taken to the local automotive machine shop where it was bored .010 over and valve seats recut. The finished bore was beautifully honed and right to size.
New intake and exhaust valves were purchased then polished and corners radiused. The cylinder head was milled .045 and bead blasted. Came out looking like new.
After cleanup, I couldn't resist the urge to port and polish. Here is the block deck with light relief work around the valves.
All casting goobers were cleaned out of the ports, and sharp edges radiused. Here's what the inlet port now looks like.
The block was then taken to the local automotive machine shop where it was bored .010 over and valve seats recut. The finished bore was beautifully honed and right to size.
New intake and exhaust valves were purchased then polished and corners radiused. The cylinder head was milled .045 and bead blasted. Came out looking like new.
This time to keep costs in line, I went with the Stenz piston and ring set. Quality looked very good.
Ring end gap is checked in the finished bore. It's very important that the second compression ring have gap clearance greater than the top ring. This keeps oil consumption down. This ring set checked out at .022 top and .028 second, respectively.
I was amazed and rather disturbed by the wall thickness of the Stenz wrist pin that was supplied with the piston. Weighing the original Kohler part and comparing it to the Stenz pin, the former weighs 65 grams while the latter weighed in at 120 grams, almost double the mass!
The pistons were then weighed and, with rings, the Kohler piston weighed 325 grams and the Stenz 350 grams. Thus, the reciprocating mass increase with the Stenz parts amounts to a whopping 80 grams. In my opinion, this is too much to add to a single cylinder engine that is rigidly mounted to the tractor chassis. This fact alone would steer me away from purchasing a Stenz piston for a future rebuild. As the greatest mass increase is in the wrist pin, I elected to use the Kohler pin in the Stenz piston, after measuring to determine the outside diameter and length were the same.
This engine was obviously very low time, as was evidenced by the condition of the original parts. Even the carburetor throttle shaft was snug and didn't need replacing. Other than the bore and the piston, everything internally looked very good. The crankpin measured out to new tolerances. The camshaft and lifters looked perfect. Contrary to my usual practice, I reused the connecting rod as I don't think this engine has over 500 hours on it and the bearing surfaces looked perfect. The governor gear was replaced though. Here the engine is on the stand and going back together.
While the engine is out, a nice upgrade to perform is installation of a QuietLine flex-disc coupling on the drive shaft, eliminating that rattly and problem-prone pin and slot connector that was standard on this vintage Cub. The parts were purchased from Madson's and are shown below.
With the engine back together and installed in the tractor, here is how the coupling looks.
After getting all the accessories attached, battery installed, and miscellaneous items secured, it was time to light her up. The engine started on the first attempt and, after the assembly oil burned off the bore, it was nice to see a clear exhaust again. The lack of a rattly driveshaft coupling combined with the nice crisp sound from the exhaust instill confidence. A test drive confirmed that the pep has been restored to this 107 and she now has a new lease on life. And I have a cherished gift from a fine friend whom I'll never forget.
Ring end gap is checked in the finished bore. It's very important that the second compression ring have gap clearance greater than the top ring. This keeps oil consumption down. This ring set checked out at .022 top and .028 second, respectively.
I was amazed and rather disturbed by the wall thickness of the Stenz wrist pin that was supplied with the piston. Weighing the original Kohler part and comparing it to the Stenz pin, the former weighs 65 grams while the latter weighed in at 120 grams, almost double the mass!
The pistons were then weighed and, with rings, the Kohler piston weighed 325 grams and the Stenz 350 grams. Thus, the reciprocating mass increase with the Stenz parts amounts to a whopping 80 grams. In my opinion, this is too much to add to a single cylinder engine that is rigidly mounted to the tractor chassis. This fact alone would steer me away from purchasing a Stenz piston for a future rebuild. As the greatest mass increase is in the wrist pin, I elected to use the Kohler pin in the Stenz piston, after measuring to determine the outside diameter and length were the same.
This engine was obviously very low time, as was evidenced by the condition of the original parts. Even the carburetor throttle shaft was snug and didn't need replacing. Other than the bore and the piston, everything internally looked very good. The crankpin measured out to new tolerances. The camshaft and lifters looked perfect. Contrary to my usual practice, I reused the connecting rod as I don't think this engine has over 500 hours on it and the bearing surfaces looked perfect. The governor gear was replaced though. Here the engine is on the stand and going back together.
While the engine is out, a nice upgrade to perform is installation of a QuietLine flex-disc coupling on the drive shaft, eliminating that rattly and problem-prone pin and slot connector that was standard on this vintage Cub. The parts were purchased from Madson's and are shown below.
With the engine back together and installed in the tractor, here is how the coupling looks.
After getting all the accessories attached, battery installed, and miscellaneous items secured, it was time to light her up. The engine started on the first attempt and, after the assembly oil burned off the bore, it was nice to see a clear exhaust again. The lack of a rattly driveshaft coupling combined with the nice crisp sound from the exhaust instill confidence. A test drive confirmed that the pep has been restored to this 107 and she now has a new lease on life. And I have a cherished gift from a fine friend whom I'll never forget.
Michael, the PTO was an option on the Original but the optional version is not what you have. It looks like you have a modified one like what is on a 70/100 though the 72, 1x4/5. Here is what the optional Original PTO lever looked like.
Or if you prefer, here's the parts drawing.
David K., nice job!
C
craig_in_illinois
Guest
I was just given a cub cadet 122. It is very complete, and has not ran in 10 years.It has a mower deck, and an original snow plow, and original rear wheel weights. It had a plugged gas tank, and fuel system, and no spark. After a few hours of tinkering and a new coil It runs. However it is surging at any speed. Any ideas on why it would surge. Also I need a source for the deck belt that goes around all three pulleys. It blew apart in tewenty pieces when I engaged the deck. Also the clutch seems to be very noisy, rattling.I attempted to grease the area of the throwout bearing, and the long spring that is around the shaft. It helped a bit.????
Craig, welcome to the forum! The sponsors, (see the links at the top of the page, for a belt your best bet would be Madson's) should be able to help you out with a replacement belt for your mower deck. Do you know which deck you have? You'll need to know which deck you have in order to get the proper belt. Could be a 38" a 42" or a 48" deck. This is the width of cut not the overall width of the deck. Your carburator could have a worn throttle and/or choke shaft allowing air in causing the surging. If there is slop around the shafts when you move the throttle or choke (to check them, with the engine off, just wiggle them right at the carb) it's time for a carb rebuild.
