There's an easy way Frank!
Example,
Example,
-
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Archive through August 09, 2012
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fcurrier
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Easy from your end, maybe!
Once we get close to the top of a page (50 posts?) it gets scary making a post with pics and then having to redo the post.
Where am I? # wise on this page?
My bad.
Once we get close to the top of a page (50 posts?) it gets scary making a post with pics and then having to redo the post.
Where am I? # wise on this page?
My bad.
jchamberlin
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Charlie, Frank: You guys crack me up!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
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- 812
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- Binder 1650
Dexter - I just replaced the idler pulley and bracket on my 44 deck. I had a spare I pulled off another rusted-out shell I found. When taking off that idler assy, the shoulder bolt broke. The 44 deck that had the bad idler (see in my earlier post) came off pretty easy. I basically use a socket on the large hex part, some PB blaster and an impact wrench on the bolt holding it on.
As I grow older, I find impact wrench an good friend to have in the shop.
Also, I have had good luck when applying heat dabbing candle was on the bolt and as I remove the heat, the wax seems to get sucked-into the threads and the bolt comes loose....
As I grow older, I find impact wrench an good friend to have in the shop.
Also, I have had good luck when applying heat dabbing candle was on the bolt and as I remove the heat, the wax seems to get sucked-into the threads and the bolt comes loose....
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- Binder 1650
Not so many answers tonight - but lots of questions...
So the 109 has points and condenser set-up. Question is - can you accurately use a wireless tach to measure the RPMS - vs a solid state ignition?
I tried this with two meters:
And though I got the same readings, at full throttle, the engine - according to the above meters, was only making about 1950ish RPMS.
Sounded to me like it was making 4000 RPMS.
Any chance the points and condenser ignition systems don't work with wireless tach's?
So the 109 has points and condenser set-up. Question is - can you accurately use a wireless tach to measure the RPMS - vs a solid state ignition?
I tried this with two meters:
And though I got the same readings, at full throttle, the engine - according to the above meters, was only making about 1950ish RPMS.
Sounded to me like it was making 4000 RPMS.
Any chance the points and condenser ignition systems don't work with wireless tach's?
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- Binder 1650
Looking at the manual for the 109, it shows the dipstick coming out of the engine side, just above the frame. The engine on my 109 has the dipstick coming out the top of the block.
The S/G is also black vs yellow. Would this have been a replacement or did these come from IH painted black vs yellow when the tractor was new?
BTW, the engine number is K241A. For some reason, I was thinking the engine should be a K241AQ.
The S/G is also black vs yellow. Would this have been a replacement or did these come from IH painted black vs yellow when the tractor was new?
BTW, the engine number is K241A. For some reason, I was thinking the engine should be a K241AQ.
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- Binder 1650
I mentioned the top of the steering wheel was loose on the 109 - loose where the steering wheel fits in the tube coming through the dash.
The fix for this might be a winter project, along with a super steer upgrade. Might be a good time to add a suicide knob to the steering wheel too...
The fix for this might be a winter project, along with a super steer upgrade. Might be a good time to add a suicide knob to the steering wheel too...
Bill-
If you've got a 3/4" wheel bearing, that usually fixes those right up.
Finally just got around to finishing the latest add to my 169's steering. I've had the Super Steer axle on for many years, but just rebuilt a steering box with a 3-turn steering gear and added a thrust bearing. I thought I'd be able to just pick up a 605 thrust bearing, but found a Timken that works almost just as well (its almost too big).
The tractor steers very nice (and will even better when I get rid of the lug tires), but through the process, it would have been almost easier in the long run to just put power steering on.
If you've got a 3/4" wheel bearing, that usually fixes those right up.
Finally just got around to finishing the latest add to my 169's steering. I've had the Super Steer axle on for many years, but just rebuilt a steering box with a 3-turn steering gear and added a thrust bearing. I thought I'd be able to just pick up a 605 thrust bearing, but found a Timken that works almost just as well (its almost too big).
The tractor steers very nice (and will even better when I get rid of the lug tires), but through the process, it would have been almost easier in the long run to just put power steering on.
