Archive through August 09, 2011

[jbaker]

I want to drive a 129 in a small short parade, And was going to use a set of tires with chains on them.

"For show purposes"

any one with a opinion on how much wear or damage it would cause to tire or chain?

I know it will be a bumpy ride so this is just a thought so far

 

[rdehli]

need some help with the hydro adjustment/ brake adjustment on my 782 tractor will not move forward till the lever is at least 1/4 to 1/2 way up on the dash but no hydro creep seems to not go as fast as it should either... also reverse seems slow also ...just changed hy tran ...level is where it should be ...

brake seems sticky too pushing the pedal down goes very easy the first 1/2 then very difficult... any thoughts or advice TIA...

 

[proessler]

Rob---FAQ #32, Charlie's FAQ #32,#33 might shed a little lite...Also can download Operators Manual from CC , goto page 22 for Brake adjustment.

Is there a PD @ your father-in-law's in the future? PWR

 

[wshytle]

Jeff-

"I know it will be a bumpy ride" is to say the least. I'm sure it will shine the chains some and I don't see a problem with properly inflated tires. It's going to vibrate/beat you somewhat at parade speeds on that hard surface.

I'd take a pillow, sit way back in the seat, and keep your teeth clinched.

 

[dross]

I always figured if the chains were making you bounce a lot you have to much air pressure in the tires. I know my 72 with 2 link chains and loaded carry about 8 pounds, they don't bounce.

 

[thoffman]

Jeff, Take a little air out a parade to beat the band. It won't hurt 'em.

 

[sblunier]

Rob D.

Check the linkage where the adjustable rod from the brake/clutch rock shaft attaches to the "Y" shaped centering slot on the hydro linkage.

The linkage from the rockshaft to the "Y" ends in a "T" that engages the "Y" and returns the hydro to neutral.

You do not want the "T" burried all the way down into the bottom of the "Y" gate on the hydro linkage with the pedal locked down.....more isn't better here. Adjust the linkage from the rockshaft with the "T" end so that it just pulls into the center of the "Y" enough to stop the hydro, NO MORE.

If you bury this linkage adjustment all the way down in the bottom of the "Y", the hydro gets sluggish on the lever and the top speed will be limited 1-2 mph by the "T" / "Y" interface.

I have personally seen and corrected this issue on one of my tractors and on a friend's tractor at an early PD in IA. The adjustment we made at the PD "made a different tractor out of it".

 

[rneubauer]

Are the automatic hydro release valves the same between the left side and right side? (i.e. when I remove them, do I have to be careful not to get them mixed up?)

 

[digger]

Rob N.
Makes no dif which side they are on.

 

[nbartee]

Rob N.

No, they're interchangeable.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - I've had heim joints on the steering tierods of my 72 for over 30 yrs, and they're still tight. But I never thought to put them on a hydro lnkage until I saw your picture.

I've got a 1 pound coffee can full of new and slightly used ball/socket joints, but I guess I better pull the center cover off the 982 and see how many I need.

 

[rneubauer]

Charlie/Norm,
Thanks for the reply. Next question on Hydro release valves, if one is going bad could that make the tractor go very slowly in reverse? i.e. I have a 1450 that started to not backup very fast. I have a pair of "new to me" Hydro release valves that I was going to swap in to see if it makes a difference.

 

[digger]

Rob N.
Go for it!
Not gonna hurt a thing, just make sure everything is CLEAN!

 

[sblunier]

Denny,

That was a modified foot control project => new joints, it was the only pic I had of the N linkage to the pedal.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - I think I kinda knew that.... But I really like the idea!

That WHOOOSHING sounds is everyone going onto McMaster-Carr's website to order heim joints now....

 

[rrunty]

I'm in the process of rebuilding the steering gear on my early Original and have run into a bit of a dilemna. When I tore it apart, there were 10 ball bearings, a cup, and a lock ring
at each end of the worm gear. No plastic bearing cage like the newer boxes. I don't believe it had ever been apart. I went to replace the balls and cups with what is currently available from CC, and that seems to be where the problem lies. The new cups are much "flatter" or more square than the old ones and they don't seem to sit right in the "race" area of the adjusting plug and steering box. They don't bottom out and rock a little, and when I tighten down the adjusting plug, it throws the steering shaft quite a ways off center at the top or steering wheel end of the steering tube. Put the old cups back in and every thing looks like it should, plus the adjusting plug tightens up about another 1/16" deep or so in the box. So it looks like I have to re-use the old cups, but they're 50 years old and have seen better days. Is there another way around this, or should I be looking for nice used cups.

Bob

 

[mhomrighausen]

Rob N. As Charlie said, "Go for it!" What you may try first is simply interchanging the two check valves. That way if it then goes forward in the same sluggish manner as in reverse and reverse suddenly seems to be faster then you know that the one valve is bad.

Make sure the whole area is <u>CLEAN</u>.

Put a mark on just one of the valves BEFORE you switch sides.

Do as I mentioned above with the forward/reverse movement thing.

Okay.... I can't remember which valve side controls foward and which is reverse while sitting on the tractor. SSssooo.... Now swap out one valve at a time with one of your others. Through process of elimination you will see which check valve is the one sticking.

Once you've found out which is the sticking valve you can try to clean it with either CLEAN solvent, CLEAN oil, etc. You can use a small allen wrench in the hole at the bottom (be careful not to be too aggressive) and push up on the ball inside while cleaning.

Just some suggestions from what I'd do.

 

[wshytle]

Robert R-

I believe if you order the kit with bearings and all you will get the old style OEM race. The new replacement races are a pain to work with and, as you said, they don't sit right at times. They will work but you have to have a certain amount of luck to get them just right.

 

[jbaker]

Thanks for the chain opinions I am going to run them... with a little less air,,, also I failed to mention but
it has theses on it with 10.50 turfs
pictures this weekend

 

[rrunty]

Thanks Wayne. I was under the impression that the newer style was all that's available now. I'll run over to my dealer next week and see what they have.

Bob