Archive through August 09, 2009

[ldunlap]

Clint,
After reading your posts, you said that you had to make new bushings as the engine cradle doesn't set level. All 4 of my bushings are the same height.
Larry

 

[dfrisk]

CLINT - That aluminum bronze is REALLY good material. I sure wish I had access to some of the "Scrap" You have!

There's been several people put u-joints in their drive shafts on CC's but to be honest I've never seen a post about how they hold up long term. My Buddy has a JD 317 He bought brand new in '81 which had u-joints from the factory and I know He's replaced the driveshaft at considerable expense THREE times.

 

[cmccall]

Dennis

I do luck up at times getting my scrap stock for play time, at today's prices for metal I don't know what I would do purchasing new metal!! I will get some exact measurements on the bushings, but my spacing to get the cradle level is around .5" on the rear, and .25" on the front, this gives me a level engine cradle.

Clint

 

[cmccall]

Dennis Frisk

Could you shoot me an email [email protected] I tried emailing you, but it came back.

Thanks, clint

 

[digger]

Posting for Aaron.

Been busy with projects and just got another one finished up. Its fully functional and loads up real nice. Tested it before i painted it. I called it the "EM-100" EM = Earth Mover. Just thought I would share some pics. I should have put it behind the Red V-6 782!

I will have these on my web site for sale also shortly. }

 

[kmcconaughey]

Cool!

 

[kide]

Need action shots! Looks ready to start a roadbuilding project..even better, paint it yellow and put it behind Dan Hoefler's dozer!!

Very nice work, Aaron.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell, haven't you ever seen the one that Dan built? Actually he built two reproductions of the Soil Mover "Mini-Scraper".

He also built a rear PTO powered Hydraulic pump, using the Cub Cadet add-on hydraulic pump, for operating it on his older Cubs that don't have hydraulic outlets.

 

[dylschmidt]

I think it would be a nice fit behind a 4-wheel drive-----hey! I know! Can you say 1650-4?

very nice, Aaron. Looks like a nice width for loading.....would work good for triming my race track.
Good Job.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Darryl, excellent idea, I think you should get Aaron to haul it over for testing and photos behind your 1650-4.

 

[aschmidt]

Maybe I should make one wider and see if i can actually stop that 1650-4. Suppose it would have to be yellow also! Will be hauling it to Montrose plow days and maybe we will see it work there.

 

[dfrisk]

AARON - Your scraper looks to be about 3-1/2 ft wide. Unless the ground was loosened somehow it would probably stop most Cub Cadets in their tracks. Most Cubbies only weigh 800 to 1200 pounds.

A scraper that size would really make something like My Super H snort! And it weights about 6500 pounds with the loader attached. The bucket on the loader is 40 inches wide and a couple months ago when I was landscaping around the house I was digging out some tree roots and the satelite TV dish base with the loader and digging up a couple inches of dirt was ALL the old girl wanted in low gear.

Most dirt moving projects for buildings & highways now days are done with 14 ft wide scrapers like that behind 500+ HP Case/IH Quadratracks. There was a video on Youtube a couple years ago of a scraper behind a BIG green & yellow tractor a frequent poster here on the forum did the engineering work on, once the scraper started loading dirt all four tires were spinning and even in the lower gears the engine was pulled way down. They normally don't pull them in the lowest gears because the ECU reduces the output of the engine to protect the u-joints in the drivetrain I was told. I was told that when a u-joint fails it's about like a BOMB going off under the cab. You hear about what sounds like a howitser going off then it gets REAL quiet.

VERY nice work though!

 

[aschmidt]

Dennis, Yes it is amazing how much a pile of dirt can stop a machine. 1st time i took it out before it was painted on the gravel driveway, i got it 3/4 full and the tractor stopped in its tracks. I didnt have any weight on at all on the tractor. So i went and got my 982D (yes, a 982D - custom) and with 250# weights and heavier tractor and bigger tires, it make a difference, but had the diesel smoking nicely. Of course i just built it for fun. Works GREAT in the yard for scooping up gopher mounds!!!

 

[dfrisk]

Probably 25 yrs ago I found a broken piece of road grader cutting edge in a scrap pile at Dad's. He ran the neighborhood welding shop trying to keep neighbor's old farm equip. patched up & running. Normally He didn't charge for repairs so He tended to stay busy while the welding shops in town were begging for work!

ANYHOW, this cutting edge was 40+ inches long, broke on one end where it had hit something REALLY solid, 1/2 in thick and about 6 in, tall with a real nice arc to it. I cut the broken end off square. That was before I had my bandsaw. Took THREE new good hacksaw blades to cut it off I remember! I took some 1/4" thk plate some big hardware, and other scrap I had sitting around and made a bracket to bolt the blade onto the mule drive of My 72 in place of the mower deck. It angles nicely to three different angles each way, and with the 40+ yrs of mowing duty the mule drive lets the blade tilt a bit also.

I put it on the old 70 this spring along with the tire chains on the old 6-12 GY turf tires and did almost ALL the finish grading on the landscapng project around the house. There is a limit to what You can move with a 700# tractor with a tired 8 HP engine but with enough passes I cut at least 1-1/2 ft off the bank along side of the house that was letting water sit beside the foundation and leak into the basement. There was a bunch of old roots left from bushes that had been beside the house, and the big tree in front of the house, plus a few weeds, but once I got down into clear dirt without all the trash I can make that blade cut! Nice thing about a center mounted blade is I can stand on it while the tractor is moving and really make it cut, and it really works great for leveling ground, where a frt or rear mounted blade tends to make the grade worse.

Only complaint I have is with the little 6-12 tires the blade only clears the ground by about 2 inches, it would be nice if I had another inch or so clearance when raised.

 

[aschmidt]

Had another idea the other night. I was sick of cutting logs on the ground and running the chainsaw blade into the dirt, so i made the log hog. Well come to find out it is awsome for pulling branches and stuff out of the woods! Just another toy!! Next on the list is a tree shear for the 3 points!

 

[dfrisk]

AARON - I see a Special Episode of AX MEN in Your future!

 

[kide]

I'm starting to believe that "Aaron Schimdt" is actually the name for a whole team of mad engineers holed up in the back of Charlie's new digs... No one guy should be able to fab as much cool stuff as "Aaron" does.....

 

[kmcconaughey]

Aaron, now that is a very cool implement! If you need a field tester, or would that be a "woods tester" (?????), for that I'd be willing to give it a try on my AC620.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Aaron S. Really neat little toys. One word of caution though however I am sure you have already taken steps to avoid disaster. When marketing the LOG HOG make sure to have proper warning decals that are properly worded and liability insurance. Even though the item may be sold as a "toy" someone out there may get hurt and be looking for some "easy $$$".

 

[jbaker]

Aaron way way cool that is something that i would buy also if it cant field test at kraigs i have plenty of wood to test on