Archive through August 08, 2005

[jstorma]

Dave,

Nice tires, I just looked at prices on that same exact size and brand at Wal-mart this evening. Let us know how the pull goes.

I've been debating on purchasing luged tires. Can anyone else that have pics of there luged tire please send them too me. Also, would some rims from an older cub be narrower and fit my 782?

 

[jmann]

Hi there

great forum here lots of info in the archive. I have a 782 I aquired when my father in law(Best buddy) passed a year ago. He loved this machine about 6 month's prior to his passing he blew the old kohler 17 and we tore it down and out, He bought a brand new k17 and installed it himself. He loved this tractor and used it to cut his 5 acres of grass. When I got it ready last year it ran fine I bought new belts tuned it up, cut 1 lap around the property and it ran like a top. when I got back from church that day it ran like crap on one cylinder I couldn't for the life of me figure out what it was, so I put it up and left it alone til' this year, after several people looked at it. I finally pulled the head and low and behold there was one of the air cleaner plate screws staring at me from the intake valve. I pulled it and it was back to good as new, then my pto went out I called Cub and a great tech answered, told me what to do, and to get on this very site. Well me and the cub have been cuttin all year and 2 days ago in the open yard it just seemed to Blow itself apart violently and suddenly, after inspection I noted the coupler had torn off the flywheel, and busted most of the fins off, torn the ragjoint or coupler flexer, and I see my hydro line is busted and wondered if that hadnt caused the pump to go dry and lock it up, now it will start but with the flywheel out of balance it shook horribly so I shut it off quick. anyone got a clue why this may have happened?
I appologize this was so long and assure I will shorten my posts in the future, I just wanted all to know my situation fully.

I thank you all and look forward to hearing your input.

Jack

 

[bmoore]

Jack M,
I would suspect that due to improper torquing, the coupler removed itself first. If the fasteners or threads in the flywheel were corroded or otherwise crudded up, it's pretty hard to get proper torque. If the coupler became loose and dropped down into the flywheel, the fins could catch it and send it any number of places. With the rear of the driveshaft still attached, the front will still be banging around every time it hits the flywheel fins. I would guess that if you look at the broken hydro line, there will be evidence of the driveshaft hitting it.
Just a guess without seeing it.
On the new/used flywheel you install, make sure the threads are clean, consider a thread locking compound such as LocTite, and torque the fasteners correctly. I'd also check to make sure the driveshaft is straight.

 

[kweimann]

David K.,
I have the same tires on my 123 puller. I put them on 8.5 rims as I didn't have any 10.5's. I love the looks and I put the tire pressure down to about 3 psi and they bite great. Kenny

 

[shate]

Greetings,

Several weeks ago I asked the group about adjusting a carb on my model 127. The group was a great help and identified the Walbro with what screw does what. Adjusting went well, but alas it was all for nothing when about a week and a half later my machine suddendly quit with much noise. Lacking time to do so, I had a local company tear it down to diagnose and found that various pieces inside the engine had broken and in the process cracked the block.

I proceeded to find myself a source for a new Kohler K301 engine, had it delivered, and put it in myself. This one has a Walbro carb on it as well. I tuned things up (note I don't have a tac to determine recommended low idle RPM of 1000) and proceeded to mow.

The problem -- I mow for about 10-15 minutes, the machine is good and hot, and suddenly much sputtering occurs. I disengage the mower deck and normal running resumes. I re-engage the deck and sputtering resumes again.

I've checked for binding in the deck (not finding any), replaced the deck belt, inspected the PTO wihich appears ok (no noises to suggest lose screws), and the transfer pulleys look good. The oil level is where it should be as well. My question is, is it likely that I have not provided the machine enough power under load when it's hot? In other words, what do the experienced folks here think of the potential that I just plain didn't connect the throttle cable at a reasonable position to allow me to fine tune the carb for proper operation under load? Can it be that simple?

On a sidenote and not intended as an advertisement, I found that the IH-477599-R2 deck belt cross references to Rotary brand 12-510 4L-770. I know the True Value chain in my area carries it and it's likely that other hardware/lawn garden stores may too - just something to know if you're in a pinch and need it quick.

 

[sblunier]

Shanen,

You are probably starving the engine for fuel, adding the load of the deck and the extra power produced by the "fresh" engine probably made the difference.

First try backing out the main jet about 1/2 turn.

If that doesn't work, remove the fuel line at the carb, it should RUN ruel out at a steady stream, not just dribble. It it does not run out try blowing backwards thru the fuel line with some compressed air. If that doesn't cure low fuel flow remove and throughly clean the fuel tank and try again with fresh gas. If it does run out, check the needle/float for blockage/dirt.

Dirt and crap in the line, stirred up during the engine change, is probably what you've got.

 

[digger]

Kinda makes ya wonder if he really did hit the wall!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Shanen, in addition to what Steve wrote check that the vent in the gas cap is not plugged.

 

[digger]

Just in case someone wants to know how to install a creeper gear in a narrow frame tractor without even taking the knob off the handle! LOL

 

[lbuttke]

Well after carefully (yeah right) piceing together my project tractor with many different parts, this is what I think I will settle with.

I like this look best of the 3 options I have.

 

[lbuttke]

Charlie >
Just think how easy it is to knock out the roll pins is now.

 

[rbedell]

Charlie:

Wasn't that one of IH Prototypes for "ram air"...???

 

[bjenkinson]

Thanks for all the help. I got it going by jacking up the rear and running the starter.It picked up about the time I started worrying about burning the starter. I'm happy!! Thanks!!
Ben

 

[jclayton]

1250 pto problems---the deck seemed to loose rpms from time to time(the belts are tight) and then pick back up to speed. After I had stopped for a break the pto wouldn't engage. Test light shows power to the pig tail that goes to the field coil. I've got it all apart now, the covering that is on the front of the field coil is cracked in several places, will this make any difference? Other than needing a shim between the driven disc and the driving hub to get the right clearance, everything looks good. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[wrsmith]

Hi all,
I'm new to the list and have a problem with my 108. The tractor will run and operate fine most of the time but once in awhile it seems to go into neutral. The driveshaft still spins when the tractor stops and if I rest my foot lightly on the clutch pedal it will start moving again. All I have to do is take up the freeplay for it to move. When it starts there is no grinding or noise, it acts like you let the clutch out. My first thought was a clutch problem but the driveshaft still keeps turning. I took the coupler off and removed the cover, the reduction gears are meshing fine and I didn't see any problems. Any suggestions before I pull the trans apart?

Wayne

 

[rchristensen]

Jim Clayton
It sounds like you may have two problems, slipping and failure to energize. Not energizing is usually the air gap settings. As far as the cracks in the coil, if it works I wouldn't worry about them. I would put everything back togther, make the adjustments per the manual and see how it works.

If your PTO is black it probably needs the shims, if it is silver it shouldn't need them. What is the gap between the driven disc and the driving hub?

On the slipping, make sure you have the right belt, I have had the belt get out of the pulley on the PTO and run on the back of the PTO pulley (its the same size so your gauge looks good) but whenever you hit heavy grass it slips. Also check your deck to be sure it is turning freely.

Sometimes it helps if we know the history, did it just start slipping or maybe you just got it and someone put on the wrong pulley. The more info you can give helps us make better suggestions.

 

[rchristensen]

Wayne Smith
With the drive shaft turning I would suspect the pin in the rear coupler broken, but when you say you removed the coupler I'm at a loss.

 

[lbuttke]

Wayne >
Check to make sure you did not shear one of the 2 spiral pins in the coupler back by the tranny.
I will look like it is working, act like it is working and will some times work until put under a load, than the drive shaft will turn but not the gears in the tranny.
Hadrest to tell is the rear most pin, for you can not see the stub shaft of the pinion gear.

Had this happen to me. My tractor would move fine until I droped the bacl blade, than nothing, lift the back blade and the tractor would move again.

 

[shate]

Steve and Kraig,

I'll be sure to check the vent hole in the gas cap. The fuel flow in the hose is verified good now. I guess what puzzles me is that if this is a fuel starvation scenario related to added load of the mower, why does it suddenly happen about 10 to 15 minutes mowing time? I'd expect a slow decline in performance.

My dad did some checking with an old dealer of Cubs that he has used for many years and after describing the issue, they suggested that they've seen the engines come in with the points not set right or even broken springs. So their suggestion was to check the gap on the points. As that will be relatively easy to check as soon as I lay my hands on a gap gage, I'll do that this weekend. Then if need be, I'll proceed to digging deeper into the carb for potential fuel restriction issues (ie dirt n crap).

Thanks again for the tips. If any other ideas come to mind, I'd be glad to have them. I'll be sure to report back with what I find to be the problem in the end.

 

[mfrade]

Shanen Hate, try a little Marvel Mystery Oil mixed in with the fuel. It could be a "hanging" or "sticking" exhaust valve causing the loss in performance. After the 10 - 15 minutes of run time the exhaust valve stem might be expanding enough in the guide and causing it to hang open every few strokes. MMO seems to help a lot of guys with this condition. Besides that, they say it smells good..