RON - As a "Worker tractor", I would not stray too far from stock on your 122's clutch. There are some things that are better in the aftermarket or puller parts.
The billet clutch pressure plates are a nice thing to have, but there's really nothing wrong with a resurfaced set of old OEM plates either. Just like a cylinder head, they can be resurfaced on a sheet of wet/dry sandpaper on a plate of glass with WD-40 sprayed on the paper. The new stock pressure spring and friction disk are fine too IMO. The one thing that pays to upgrade is the driveshaft on any tractor 10 HP or higher. There's a "pre-hardened 4140 alloy steel" driveshaft that's available for about the same price as the un-hardened 1018 steel shaft that's the ONLY way to go. It really extends the life of the rear roll pin at the very back of the driveshaft where the driveshaft pins to the coupler right in front of the reduction housing.
I'd also replace the throw-out bearing, anti-rattle springs, and teaser spring. I doubt there's anything wrong with your 3-pin driver. I'd look over the release lever and the pivot bracket that bolts to the frt lower side of the steering console, make sure the holes the 3/8" dia. pin attaches the two parts are not worn excessively and there's no unusual wear where the lever contacts the T/O bearing.
You might want to replace all the 1/4" dia roll pins in the driveshaft too. 4-5 total if I remember them all, depends on if you use the movable clamp-on rear pressure spring stop.