-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through August 02, 2015
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Good suggestion on the keyway......
In either event, relief or keyway, it's not making enough pressure.
If there is something stuck on the relief valve seat, you could try backing out the relief adjustment some (count specific number of turns) then run the system ....to clear potential blockage holding relief open, then return to original setting. Check with gauge (deadheaded) before using it much to make sure it isn't set too high. These loaders only run up to about 1500 psi on their lighter duty cylinders, so don't over do it.
In either event, relief or keyway, it's not making enough pressure.
If there is something stuck on the relief valve seat, you could try backing out the relief adjustment some (count specific number of turns) then run the system ....to clear potential blockage holding relief open, then return to original setting. Check with gauge (deadheaded) before using it much to make sure it isn't set too high. These loaders only run up to about 1500 psi on their lighter duty cylinders, so don't over do it.
Taking my 122 apart to redo it. The safety start switch is half painted indicating it was attached when the tractor was painted. But the frame also has paint on it underneath where the switch was. Would they have put one coat on the frame then attach parts such the rear end, switch, etc and then spray it again? There's paint under where the rear attaches also.
mgwin
Well-known member
Doug,
I would say (guess) everything was put on before painting. I doubt they waited around for the paint to dry to put more parts on.
I took the switch off to eliminate any headaches later on. Start anything up with it in gear a few times, and you will learn not to do that anymore!
Just finished my dad's 122. It turned out pretty good. He was very happy!
I would say (guess) everything was put on before painting. I doubt they waited around for the paint to dry to put more parts on.
I took the switch off to eliminate any headaches later on. Start anything up with it in gear a few times, and you will learn not to do that anymore!
Just finished my dad's 122. It turned out pretty good. He was very happy!
Attachments
Hoping mine looks close to that good.
mgwin
Well-known member
Doug,
Just take it all apart, sandblast it, prime it, sand it, tack cloth it, paint it with Case IH Irongard, and put it all back together and it will!
P.S. Dad bought a trailer so he could haul it and his 100 around and show them. He is about to bust to show them to someone.
Just take it all apart, sandblast it, prime it, sand it, tack cloth it, paint it with Case IH Irongard, and put it all back together and it will!
P.S. Dad bought a trailer so he could haul it and his 100 around and show them. He is about to bust to show them to someone.
Attachments
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Congrats Jeff! to you and your family.
And for that other thing you mentioned too...
And for that other thing you mentioned too...
Had a wild ride on the old 147 Sat. Snap ring that holds speed control plates on the hydro went MIA.
The groove the snap ring goes in was worn and wouldn't hold a new one.
Drilled the pin and
put a washer and cotter key in.
Narrow frames are not that much fun to work on. Now can gather up funds for new parts to fix it.
The groove the snap ring goes in was worn and wouldn't hold a new one.
Drilled the pin and
put a washer and cotter key in.
Narrow frames are not that much fun to work on. Now can gather up funds for new parts to fix it.
I bought a very nice 129 which needed some minor repairs, one being the drive shaft and fan. I removed the fenders, replaced the parts and added a spring assist. Put it all back together and it will not go into reverse. Forward works fine. Prior to replacing the drive shaft, reverse worked as it should. The linkage appears to be working as it should and the hydro fluid is full (Hy-Tran). Any Suggestions?????????????
elamott
Well-known member
Timing on a 129
The manual states that there is an S and a T on the flywheel and the timing is set on the S. After searching the flywheel through the sight hole I find a long straight line (length of sight hole) and a smaller line (about 1/4 inch long). I have the timing set on the long line, but something is still not right. Am I missing something?
I am going to pull the head and see if the long line is at TDC.
Any comments appreciated.
Earl
The manual states that there is an S and a T on the flywheel and the timing is set on the S. After searching the flywheel through the sight hole I find a long straight line (length of sight hole) and a smaller line (about 1/4 inch long). I have the timing set on the long line, but something is still not right. Am I missing something?
I am going to pull the head and see if the long line is at TDC.
Any comments appreciated.
Earl
Earl,
When the engine is at TDC, the crankshaft keyways will be straight up. If you can see the setscrew access holes in the clutch basket pulley you should be able to set the engine at TDC without pulling the head.
When the engine is at TDC, the crankshaft keyways will be straight up. If you can see the setscrew access holes in the clutch basket pulley you should be able to set the engine at TDC without pulling the head.
elamott
Well-known member
129 Issues:
I would appreciate any ideas from anyone because I am running out. Currently after I start the engine and try to increase the RPMs it will start to shake and or vibrate until it stops. It is running rich because when it does that I can see black smoke coming out. So far I have put in new valves and springs, cleaned up the bore and piston, put in new rings, new head gasket,put in a new carb kit (the old one had a high speed needle that was plugged),. I have tried to adjust the high and low speed needle valves with no success. It is possible that the float is sticking but it shouldn't. Does anyone have any thoughts?
I am getting stumped. I have had engine problems before but I have not had one that shakes and vibrates like this.
Thanks for any thoughts
Earl
I would appreciate any ideas from anyone because I am running out. Currently after I start the engine and try to increase the RPMs it will start to shake and or vibrate until it stops. It is running rich because when it does that I can see black smoke coming out. So far I have put in new valves and springs, cleaned up the bore and piston, put in new rings, new head gasket,put in a new carb kit (the old one had a high speed needle that was plugged),. I have tried to adjust the high and low speed needle valves with no success. It is possible that the float is sticking but it shouldn't. Does anyone have any thoughts?
I am getting stumped. I have had engine problems before but I have not had one that shakes and vibrates like this.
Thanks for any thoughts
Earl
