Art,
It's been a long time since I grabbed the camera to take pics for a question asked.
It's been a long time since I grabbed the camera to take pics for a question asked.
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Archive through April 22, 2009
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Doesn't the 3 pin driver for the Quietline series have to flex because of the iso-mounts? That why I always figured they had to be different. I rebuilt one for a guy one time with heavier material but he went to solid motor mounts.
glippert
Well-known member
Charlie -
Now you've gone & done it - you confused me. (No big feat, I know!) In your previous post about the 4 pin driver plate you said:
The 3 pin drive plate on the left fits 800-1000-1200-1450-1650's.
Do 1450's and 1650's have those plates? I thought they are hydro's and the plates are for gear drive clutches? Was that a typo or do I just need to get smarter?
Now you've gone & done it - you confused me. (No big feat, I know!) In your previous post about the 4 pin driver plate you said:
The 3 pin drive plate on the left fits 800-1000-1200-1450-1650's.
Do 1450's and 1650's have those plates? I thought they are hydro's and the plates are for gear drive clutches? Was that a typo or do I just need to get smarter?
Greg,
They do if they have the hydro disconnect kit installed.
I spose I'm gonna have a dig one out and take a pic for ya ain't I.
PS,
I found your last email in my spam folder, I'll reply tomorrow.
They do if they have the hydro disconnect kit installed.
I spose I'm gonna have a dig one out and take a pic for ya ain't I.
PS,
I found your last email in my spam folder, I'll reply tomorrow.
glippert
Well-known member
Thanks, Charlie - I learn something new every day!
I'll watch for your email. Thanks.
I'll watch for your email. Thanks.
J
jclazar
Guest
good morning gang!
Kendell
Find a wheel hub about 1/3 the diameter of your culvert. Attach chains to three equal places around the hub and then to a cable, do this both sides to pull both ways. (Imagine a horizontal tire swing.) The three chians keep the hub from turning sideways in the culvert "3 point hitch if you will". Best if you can pull with the cable low in the culvert. Too big of a hub and your 129 can bind it in the culvert and then you may have to resort to a shovel or explosives.
Find a wheel hub about 1/3 the diameter of your culvert. Attach chains to three equal places around the hub and then to a cable, do this both sides to pull both ways. (Imagine a horizontal tire swing.) The three chians keep the hub from turning sideways in the culvert "3 point hitch if you will". Best if you can pull with the cable low in the culvert. Too big of a hub and your 129 can bind it in the culvert and then you may have to resort to a shovel or explosives.
Dear Mr. McConaughey,
I did all the tests you asked me to do on my 782 rear-end and hydro unit. I found 2 leaks. One was at the brake piston for the internal wet brake. The o-ring on the piston looked really bad. The other one was the gasket seperating the 2 halves of the hydro pump. I have ordered the parts from the CC dealer in Lexington, NC, hopefully they will be here soon. Last night, I seperated the rear-end/hydro unit from the tractor and moved it to a place in the garage so I could work on it. I seperated the pump from the rear-end. I looked at the brake piston and it was all wet around it, so I pulled out the piston and found the o-ring pretty squashed. I brought the hydro pump into work today and took the driveshaft rag joint off of the pump shaft, took out the little gear pump and holding pin out, took all the bolts out and seperated the pump into 2 pieces. I will replace the gasket and seal it using some gray euro sealer. Is there any tricks I should know about when I put this pump cover back together?? I see 2 pins that should nest into the 2 pump sections so they don't rotate. Is there anything else I should look for?? Thanks, Phil Wood
I did all the tests you asked me to do on my 782 rear-end and hydro unit. I found 2 leaks. One was at the brake piston for the internal wet brake. The o-ring on the piston looked really bad. The other one was the gasket seperating the 2 halves of the hydro pump. I have ordered the parts from the CC dealer in Lexington, NC, hopefully they will be here soon. Last night, I seperated the rear-end/hydro unit from the tractor and moved it to a place in the garage so I could work on it. I seperated the pump from the rear-end. I looked at the brake piston and it was all wet around it, so I pulled out the piston and found the o-ring pretty squashed. I brought the hydro pump into work today and took the driveshaft rag joint off of the pump shaft, took out the little gear pump and holding pin out, took all the bolts out and seperated the pump into 2 pieces. I will replace the gasket and seal it using some gray euro sealer. Is there any tricks I should know about when I put this pump cover back together?? I see 2 pins that should nest into the 2 pump sections so they don't rotate. Is there anything else I should look for?? Thanks, Phil Wood
Willis.
Phil, good to hear that you found the leaks. What is "gray euro sealer"? Be very careful using any kind of sealer that could leach into the Hy-Tran or produce "pieces" that could break off and get into the pump. I've never had one of the Hydrostatic pumps apart but you want to be VERY careful to keep everything CLEAN!!! Oh and read THIS Yeah, it's for the narrow frame but the basic procedure should be the same....
THIS might be helpful too.
Hopefully some of the guys that have had those apart will post additional info/tips/suggestions for you.
Phil, good to hear that you found the leaks. What is "gray euro sealer"? Be very careful using any kind of sealer that could leach into the Hy-Tran or produce "pieces" that could break off and get into the pump. I've never had one of the Hydrostatic pumps apart but you want to be VERY careful to keep everything CLEAN!!! Oh and read THIS Yeah, it's for the narrow frame but the basic procedure should be the same....
THIS might be helpful too.
Hopefully some of the guys that have had those apart will post additional info/tips/suggestions for you.
Dear Mr.McConaughey,
Gray Euro Sealer is the type of silicone sealer used in Europe that has no acid to cure. Permatex makes it and it is great. Not like the clear, black RTV we generally use. It will not break away and get into a water, oil/fluid system. Thanks for the help. Phil Wood
Gray Euro Sealer is the type of silicone sealer used in Europe that has no acid to cure. Permatex makes it and it is great. Not like the clear, black RTV we generally use. It will not break away and get into a water, oil/fluid system. Thanks for the help. Phil Wood
dsacksteder
Well-known member
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- May 13, 2008
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- 141
- displayname
- Dustin Sacksteder
I have an idoit question. Just had tubes and calcium put in a couple sets of rear cub tires and was wondering how much air there is suppose to be. Right now i dont think there is any.Thanks,Dustin
jfejedelem
Member
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- May 16, 2008
- Messages
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- displayname
- James Fejedelem
Paul I never thought of the engine mounts being the reason that it has the thin metal plate for flex. So my question is do you think sheet metal would hold up, or am I just beter off paying the 120.00 for a new one? Also is the muffler and the cast elbow out of the head the same between the 1000 and a 1650?
Dustin, just wait a year or two when the calcium rusts the valve stems, there'll be plenty of air in the tire then....
Under Edit: I should have added BTDT....
Under Edit: I should have added BTDT....
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
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- Home of the Plow Special
LOL! OMG!
dsacksteder
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 13, 2008
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Dustin Sacksteder
so how much air pressure should they have?
Dustin S.
If you just had the goo put in, you shouldn't have to add anything.
Put'um on and see if they look flat. If they don't, run'um!
If they do, add some air till the tire surface runs flat with the ground.
If you just had the goo put in, you shouldn't have to add anything.
Put'um on and see if they look flat. If they don't, run'um!
If they do, add some air till the tire surface runs flat with the ground.
Dustin, I'm not sure but I would guess that they should have about the same pressure as they would have without fluid.
I believe the recommended GT tire pressure is ~12 PSI.
