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Archive through April 20, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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James,
Put a spot of J-B Weld on either the cable or inside the clamp, No more problems with slipping.
Seems like the cable is either too small around and when I crimped it, it became difficult to move the throttle. Or the clamp too big for the cable. Gotta love JB weld!!
Ron
 
Oh I love it ! unauthorized paints and JB Weld on the same screen ! KentuckyKen where are you !!
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My Creeper Gear, to get it into gear high or low I have to push the control rod beyond the normal catch or stop points. It was slightly that way when I bought it but now it is even further out.
Whats happening ??
 
for the yellow i use napa school bus yellow ,its ver close ,David
 
i picked up a 1650 last year and have been lurking in the back ground following all the post on here. i now have some really stupid questions and hope that i have avoided any of the FAQ #1 does any one know what kind of deck this is? i haven't been able to find any thing on it in the sponsor pages i have the plate numbers the PO replaced a hub assy with one that is way off center line and would like to fix this so i have a flat lawn i appreciate any help on this. and what am i missing for this plow? i can't find a name or plate on it and it doesn't look like any of the ones in FAQ
ok i can't get the photos to work EHH
 
When I first got the snow blad for my 122 I was out it the corn feild dozing down hills in 2nd gear and it started sounding odd and then sparks came out of the muffler, it started backfiring and I turned it off. I got off looked everything over and it seemed fine, got on started it and it ran fine. This has happened two times since the first one. Seconed time going up a long hill in the subdivision next door, right when I topped it going it third it died, coasted down and it started up and I was off again. Third time I had just topped the same hill going in the opposite direction in 3rd and it did it, this time I tried to run it through it and it backfired, missed, and the exaust smelt unusual, I turned it off got to the bottom of the hill let it cool down and I was off again. It happens when the front blade is on, and it gets put under a long strenuous load. Any thoughts on what this may be?
 
Chuck K.

First, the photos need to be re-sized until they are small enough to upload.

Then you can upload them into a new message.

Be sure to hit the enter key before and after each photo in your message (this gets each photo on a line by itself and keeps them from going to wide across the page).

It will make sense once you make it work the first time.
 
Thanks to FAQ #76 I was able to get the pto off on my 127. In the past the pto bearing had been replaced and someone used the aluminum anti-sieze on the 6 screws and the bearing.
 
Lucas sounds like the tractor is getting to hot or a valve is sticking. Check the air flow from the cooling fins. If air flow is good i would check timeing and add some marvel mystery oil to the gasoline. If you are running ethanol in the gasoline that will add to the problem because it burns hotter.
 
I noticed the other day that the PTO clutch does not seem to disengage. It always spins and makes no difference if you move the pto lever. I guess it has to be rebuilt.....
 
i picked up a 1650 last year and have been lurking in the back ground following all the post on here. i now have some really stupid questions and hope that i have avoided any of the FAQ #1 does any one know what kind of deck this is? i haven't been able to find any thing on it in the sponsor pages i have the plate numbers the PO replaced a hub assy with one that is way off center line and would like to fix this so i have a flat lawn i appreciate any help on this. and what am i missing for this plow? i can't find a name or plate on it and it doesn't look like any of the ones in FAQ
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what kind of deck is this?
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OFF SET BLADES
miss matched hubsjpeg (82.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>
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deck tag
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PO hub repair
miss matched hubsjpeg (82.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>
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uh what am i doing wrong what is missing
plowjpeg (47.6 k)</td></tr></table></center>
 
Digger
Thanks, I know what to look for now. While i'm in there, are there rebuild kits. Seals? Bearings? or anything else to look at.
I'm guessing a snap ring to get inside ?
 
Gary C.
Our sponsors sell creeper parts.
The is no gap as such, It's either worn or it's not.

Also, check and make sure that the arm that holds the detent nub is not cracked or bent on the outside.
 
Thanks Don & Ron. Took the NASA approach; both a crimp and JB Weld. Throttle cable is no longer moving. Next project is leaking hydrolic pump, will post pictures next weekend does not appear to be leaking from the from seal.
 
Update on the 129:
I got the engine started Thursday night, and it sounded good and didn't smoke, but I am having major problems getting the governor to work right. When I first fired it up, the engine had a tendency to race. I also noticed that the governor bushing nut had backed out a couple of turns after a minute or so of run time. I corrected this problem, making sure to the best I could tell that the cross-shaft was positioned properly when I tightend the bushing nut. The engine still raced. I was thinking the worst, and this morning I decided to remove the engine and tear it down. There was no damage to anything inside the motor,as far as I could tell, and I found no metal in the pan, but I did substitute another cross-shaft and governor gear when I put it back together.

Turns out I wasted the whole day. The engine fired right up, but the engine still has a tendency to race. I checked and double-checked the adjustment procedure in the book, but I still have racing problems. What am I missing?
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Bruce, Did you hook up the spring at the bottom of the "arm"?
 

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