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Archive through April 11, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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digger

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Park Rapids Mn.
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Digger
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Steve, I used to over load my Toyota quit a bit and it took it good. I was pulling my 18' floating loung chair out of Owasko lake one day and in pulls an 80ish Toyota p/u pulling a 38' Bayliner cabin cruiser. Kinda hope he lived within 100yds or of the lake. That way toped any stupid stuff I've done.

Bren
 
QUOTE: "I know I have one but I can't find it and I don't feel like searching through the 100,000 or so pictures I have.."

Kraig-
If you wouldn't keep your PTO Buttons with your photos, you wouldn't have this problem!

LOL!

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Guys, thanks for the help. I thank God every day that I have a job where I can use the internet and access this forumn. Now if it stops snowing/freezing rain/raining long enough, the grass might grow!
 
On overloading small trucks. I will agree that they pull better than they stop. On my rig I had just redone the brakes on all four wheels will all new drums/rotors etc... and my rig stopped pretty good. However I would never try to pull a tandem axle steel trailer with 4 cubs on it without trailer brakes.

Has anyone ever encountered an Hydro trans that was broken/damaged etc.....and not just worn out?

I have one that is locked up solid.I took out all of the check valves and relief valves all seem to be ok. The input/output shaft into the top of the trans will turn just fine. The rear wheels will turn opposite each other up off the ground. I opened up the cover on top of the rear end and all looks well inside. It is just the shaft that goes out of the lower portion of the pump and engages the gears in the rear end that will not turn.

I am sure that the next step will be to remove the hydro and look inside. However I was just wondering if anyone else has ever had a same or similar problem? Thanks.
 
Jason H.-

I had a yellow and white 782 that had <u>exactly</u> those symptoms, and here's what I found when I disassembled the pump:

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Someone towed it and wrecked the motor side of the hydro. I fixed it with parts from a non-ported pump. That mess is likely what you'll find.
 
Matt, Holy Kablooie Batman!! So the rest of your pump was OK you just replaced all of the damaged crap from the bottom.

Thanks for the post. I didn't think of using a non-ported pump to fix it. Those are much cheaper to find.
 
Another Hydro question. I know some, all, or most of them whine somewhat.

At what point is it too much or too loud? Also on a pump that seems to whine rather loudly is this an indication of worn out or impending failure? Is there something to worry about if increased whine/noise is heard when the Hydraulic lift lever is actuated?
 
Hey Guy's, after looking back thur FAQ and forums,I have a question. the old owener of my 1650 said he ran motor oil in the hydro instead of hytran, the only thing I found listed was a refer to Mobil MX4T 10w40 is this possible and is it ok. I read not to change brands etc. so should I keep running and change with same brand oil or change to Hytran? Thanks and thanks again Mr. Digger for your help. John
 
John -
I've heard of using motor oil in a standard trans, but not in a hydro. Motor oil does not have the same balance of additives to control wear, foaming, varnish and the small amounts of moisture that develope over time. They also generally dont have as high a viscosity index or handle shear stress like a quality hydro fluid.
Hytran from a Case dealer is only about $10 a gallon. Mobil 424 or Shell Donax TD are similar fluids of high quality that also work well. Stay with the right stuff for a trouble free hydro.
 
Jason H.-

I think some noise from the lift is normal...all of my tractors with hydraulic lift do that.

I replaced that cylinder block assembly along with the fixed swash plate...my non-ported pump was from a 125 so I wound up using more of that one than I wanted to because of differences between the older pump and the new. Somewhere I have a list of all of the differences between ported and non-ported pumps that I discovered. My advice to you would be to try to find a non-ported pump from a late QL or an 82 series, that way you'll have to use less parts from the non-ported pump. Be sure to follow your service manual, and clean everything extremely well before reassembly. A parts washer is a great idea. I'd wear rubber gloves when reassembling also. Let me know of any other questions you have, I'll try to help. The pump and motor cylinder block assemblies are the same, (I think) so you might even be able to combine 2 broken units.
 
Brian B

Make sure both the front and rear wheel are 6 inches off the ground.
Move the hitch pin on the plow to the middle hole.
Adjust plow so the tail end of the landslide is 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the floor.
Make sure the piond of the share is streight in line with the plow beam.
These are the first and as far as I am concerned the best way to set up a plow befor going out to the feild to fine tune the plow for the type of soil you are about to plow.
 
Jason H.
Whining is a good thing IMHO!
I've got 2 whiners that really scream at ya and they show no signs of kicking the Hytran can yet!
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Guys thanks for the word..Guy that had the 1650 call me tonight and stated he was wrong he had used Hytran in. But hadn't changed it in the last 4 years. it will be changed, thanks.
 
Matt G:

I think the damage to that Hydro was more than just a simple tow. There had to be some greater force to tear it up that bad.

I done a Hydro similar to that. It was brought to me, when the tractor came out the back of a moving trailer. Fortunately, he had an extra pump to make one good one.
 
Lonny,
I just gotta ask.
When you wedged yourself between the topper and the Cub seat, where you setting on the seat and leaning back as your eased it in the truck? Or where ya leaning forward and mashed yourself flat with your back against the topper?

I just had to ask to get a mental picture in my mind for future reference.
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