Archive through April 03, 2007

[acasteel]

Hahahah thats not ours, Its my dads girlfriends

I know how that is. You have to be 18 to buy pretty much anything in a hardware store hear in cali. Maybe my problem was i was looking for the yellow in the wrong places, Maybe like an automotive paint store! = P

but ive know that lead based paint has been banned but the guy told me that its easy to make yellow with lead vs. it being harder with out but he compared his cheepest brand of paint and told me 50 bucks for all colors and 119 dolla for yellow.

I dont know really <u>anything</u> about paint so im just taking everyone elses word.

 

[acasteel]

Actually bill she got really mad at me kuz she came out and there was a ton of yellow dust all over it lol but what ever! She should not have parked it so close to my working space

 

[cmorsanutto]

Hi, I own a Cub Cadet 124 - Vintage 1968.

I am based in Stratford, CT - does anyone know a good "honest" repair place for Cub Cadets in the area?

My tractor has a 48" deck and it worked great until this past November. I brought it in for a tune up and found out that it needed a clutch and also a valve job.

I got an estimate that knocked me off my chair... Does anyone know how much should this type of repair cost approximately?

Thanks for your help.

Christian

 

[kweaver]

Anthony - Man why didn't you order paint from a sponsor ? There's paint mix codes floating around here somewhere (I think) that a paint store could have mixed the right shade too. For $119 I'd let the sucker rust! As for the BMW ... who told her to park in the driveway anyway !

 

[lbuttke]

<font size="+2">FYI</font>
I have changed my e-mail address due to problems with the one I was using.
New e-mail address in now in my profile.

 

[acasteel]

Lonny,

You get alot of emails lol

= P

 

[rbedell]

Dave E:

Welcome to the Forum....

Go to this link for your KT-17 series question...

http://cubfaq.com/kt17specs.html

 

[dfrisk]

I think the problem with the yellow paint is the CHROME, not the lead. Lead is bad....CHROME is worse! Company I work for made the "RoHS" deadline last July 1st.... Now every spool of wire We buy from Farm & Fleet has a "RoHS Compliant" sticker on it. Makes Me feel good that it contains No lead, hexavalent chromium, mercury, cadmium plating, and a couple other chemicals that are used in injection molding of plastic parts for increasing the melting temp. of the plastic. Not really!, but because of a law enforced in Europe US manufacturing companies had to spend BILLIONS of Dollars to comply so they could compete in the European markets. What's really funny is the fact CHINA is going to enforce RoHS compliance in another year or two.... You buy ANYTHING made in China it's very doubtful You ever get what You're expecting.
(returning soapbox to the "Stored Postion")

KEN - I was looking at doing business about 15 yrs ago with an investment foundry around Los Angeles, CA. And the foundry quoted "GREEN" castings, not solution annealed. Having the castings heat-treated about DOUBLED the price of the stainless steel castings. CA is REALLY screwed up!

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - Ya telling me something I don't know ? I've been to L.A. ! My dad use to live in Norwalk. Don't get me started on California or I'll get booted ... politics, actors, laws ....

 

[rwilke]

Charlie,

Regarding the non-functioning 149 hydro problem of Mitchell G.'s, you mentioned, "...did ya look at the valves to make sure they had not gotten pushed down and released the hydro?"

Are you referring to the two valves 'buttons' located on top of the hydro unit that are pushed down by the release lever when you want to push the tractor without it running?

Wouldn't those two valves need to be HELD DOWN - and they'd pop back up when released?

Don't they normally pop back up once started and not held down?

Thanks! Ryan W

 

[kweaver]

Sometimes the stems get rusted and they stay down.
Then you need to use needle nose pliers to pull them up or a real strong magnet (I've done that) or you can rev it up and go F/R/F/R/F/R and sometimes they'll pop up.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mitchell G., is the output shaft on the hydrostatic pump turning WHEN you try to use the hydraulic lift or WHEN you try to move the tractor with the hydro lever or just when the tractor is running but with no load on the hydraulic system? I'm thinking like Terry B., suggested, that it's pin #36 in the exploded view of the hydro. It might turn when not under a load but as soon as you try to do any work with the hydro the coupling part #4 slips on the input shaft on the hydro and thus stops pumping hydraulic fluid. Also I'll point out that the sudden nature of your tractor stopping is the usual symptom of a sheared pin on the driveshaft of a hydrostatic Cub Cadet, I've had it happen a few times over the years.

 

[deulberg]

Thanks Roland. I had been on the FAQ page before, but I went and looked again and found Charlie's FAQ page. LOTS of info. VERY detailed, and I found exactly what I was looking for.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Anthony, KENtucky wouldn't harass you if he didn't care.

This setup is made from a 38" timed mower deck from a Original Cub Cadet. It's powered by the rear PTO of a gear drive Cub Cadet. Also I have to agree with you, I've always thought "trailing mower" when I see that photo of the mower deck and subframe.

 

[tcbusch]

All this talk about sheared drive train pins got me thinking. Has anyone sheared a pin during plow day? I would think that if they were going to shear, then pulling a plow would push them over the edge. The front pin could be replaced in the field, but the rear ones would be impossible, at least on my NF's.

 

[dfrisk]

TERRY - Somebody over on the green forum has a picture of My Son on the 982 pulling My 72 off the field at about PD #3, or #5 with a sheared roll pin on the connection between the driveshaft and the coupler going into the reduction housing on the gear drive. I'd made about 2/3rds of a round...far end of the field....stopped & BS'd a minute and I took the lead with the 72 to show Son how a REAL TRACTOR Plows... Land wheel rode up on a pile of bean straw, spun it's way to solid ground and the 14 year old O-2 tool steel pin sheared. The Bluniers were great in giving Me full access to their shop, tools, and BIG STEVE even gave Me a couple spare pins but I just had too much JUNK hanging off the bottom of the 72 in the way to replace the broken pin. Normally I plowed with only about 85-90# of weight per rear wheel on the 72 and THAT day I had about 115# on the land wheel and the bite was just a bit too much. The "NEW" driveshaft I'm installing now is substantially stronger.... The old 1018 cold rolled 5/8" barstock IHC/CCC/MTD makes OEM driveshafts from tends to wallow out and elongate THAT hole in the very back of the driveshaft. I remember an Engineer at FARMALL who had a 10 or 12 HP gear drive Cub Cadet making the same comment before I even had My first CC. The 1965 Model 70 I have at home still has the entire Factory drivetrain except for the Teaser spring...Not enough HP in the K161/181 engines to tear anything up/wear anything out. But living behind My K241 since 1985 I've worn out two driveshafts and sheared a rollpin as well as that tool steel pin.

 

[mcanady]

I need Help on a early Cub 100 sn 65885. It has always been hard to start because of compression. I've decided to try and fix the problem so I have removed the engine and disassembled. I always believed the ACR was out of adjustment but this engine has no ACR on the camshaft. The problem is the starter/gen can barely turn the engine past TDC. I 've checked timing and value clearance and thats right. The engine runs great and has great power. What am I missing here. Merton of Eastern North Carolina

 

[kmcconaughey]

Merton, most likely you have a bad ground to the starter/generator. Be sure all the connections are clean. I recall that some guys add an additional ground wire from the battery to the S/G. (Myron, Roland, care to comment???) Also, sometimes the wires can corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it but the ends will look OK.

 

[mbounds]

Merton C: You're likely missing a good ground circuit. Install a new ground cable from the negative (-)terminal of the battery to the Starter/Generator mounting bracket. With time, the laws of physics and chemistry, your tractor now has too much resistance in the ground path IH used. Short of disassembling the tractor, stripping, rust, & corrosion removal of all parts, a new relocated cable is the "fix". The presumption is that your S/G is ok.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mcanady]

Kraig Thanks for the reply. I 've tried the ground wire connections. This engine when setting on the bench is hard to turn past TDC manualy. Also I have tried other Starter/Gen off other K241 engines. Thanks Merton