Archive through April 03, 2007

[acasteel]

Merton C,

Yeah i was going to say it could just be a bad generator but if you tryed a different generator then well......

Are you sure the head hasent been milled at all
;] lol

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: I wouldn't add a second one. When I have done that, it helped but not the improvement I get when I just replace the one that is there now with a new, longer cable and relocate the chassis ground point to the S/G bracket.

The only place I know of where a second ground cable is recommended is for the 80's diesels where the problem wasn't corrosion caused resistance but the original ground circuit path being incapable of the amperage load required to crank those diesel engines in cold conditions.

Myron B

 

[mbounds]

Merton C: What is the specification number and letter suffix on that engine??

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: From the serial number of the tractor he gave, Merton C may have one of those earlier Kohlers with the spark advance cam gear instead of the later ones with ACR. Since he's apparently not familiar with it, it's likely his engine is not timed correctly resulting in hard starting. The best description I have is in the engine manual for the Originals. My 70/100 manual is dated in 66 after the ACRs came out. The Kohler manuals I have do not address this issue - only the ACRs. Do you have anything better??

Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Myron, all I have that covers timing is the Original Engine service manual for the K161.

 

[mcanady]

Myron I will have to get the data you asked for off the engine. I have seen an old book on kohlers that had a section on engines before ACR but I can't find it now. Thanks for the reply Merton

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here is the timing info for the 7hp, K161.

 

[eholt]

I am considering fabricating a loader for my 1450 and I was wondering if anyone has done the same and could give me some ideas where to place the pump and resivoir. I will never use this tractor for mowing so the loader will always be installed since I got a very nice 1250 a couple of weeks ago (wife is just getting over this now). If possible please include pictures of your setup. I really would like to retain the sides for the quiet line.

 

[mbounds]

Kraig: Yeah, that is what I have also. The point gap (full open) is still .020. Earlier in the manual, it shows the correct installation of the breaker cam, which advances the spark when the engine fires and begins running. If this was not done correctly on reassembly......

Merton C: If your specification suffix is an A, B, or C, then this is where your problem is likely to get solved. Suffixes D and above were ACR engines for the K-241 (only). FYI: ACR for the K-161 began with Suffix J and the K-301 with ACR began with suffix B.

Myron B

 

[glee]

In regards to a 149 and a 1650:

If I take the valves out will it then roll in the event it stops running 200feet from my house?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Gary, I believe the 1650 should have auto dumping valves, the 149 should have a release lever on the side of the tunnel, however, the paddle that the lever attaches to is sometimes broken. Yes you can tow them but keep the speed down!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Unless you're Charlie, then full speed ahead!

 

[bcorn]

Anthony: I just did my Cub the yellow part of it when I went to my local dealer I bought 2qts. yellow and white. No way near that amount you are talking about.

The only extra I bought was from my Napa dealer was the reducer (make sure it is for enamel).

Sprayed it with my HVLP spray gun from Eastwood really like its performance.

Been studing the new "Latex" auto body paint that is being made. Amazing results and quite simple to use. The gentleman told me he has had inquiries about CUB and John Deere paints and that it would be pretty easy to match. Lead paint is gone and enamel is close behind soon!

Pops

 

[bbrigham]

Would anyone here by chance have a manual in pdf form for a Haban flail mower to fit a narrow frame? I just aquired one to put on my 102 and need to look at the mounting setup. Even close up detailed pics would be a help. Thanks guys.

Bren

 

[kweaver]

ATTENTION:
You guys are missing Merton's last post!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

This engine when setting on the bench is hard to turn past TDC manualy<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[kweaver]

Merton - Have you turned it by hand with the spark plug removed? Is it compression "hard" or more like "tight"?

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, naw Myron didn't miss it, I believe that's what pointed him to non-ACR.......

 

[kweaver]

I've seen dirt dabbers and mice build nest inside the exhaust ports without a muffler on the engine. If the exhaust valve was open when it was parked it's possible ...

My 127 cranked over good too until it got to TDC then the broke rod would make it get harder then it'd pass by ...

 

[dsterley]

Hi all quick question, i just finished rebuilding my K301
piston rings port polish milled head the hole 9 yard. my question is when im breaking it in should i use the stock muffler ore my 4in straight pipe? i wasnt sure if it would make a difference in the break in? ive never had to break in a motor before this has been a learing project. any thought would be greatly appericated thanks in advanced

 

[kweaver]

Muffler!
Short pipe = cold air hitting the hot valves. You also want "some" back pressure.